8F 

7T\\ 
h , 



Issue] June 27, 1908. 



U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, 

BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY.— BULLETIN 105. 
A. D. MK1.VIN, Chief ok Bureau. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE 

DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES. 



BY 



C. F. DOANE, M. S., 

Assistant Dairyman, Dairy Division, 
AND 

H. W. LAWSON, M. S,, M. D., 

Off ice. of Experiment Stations, Department of Agriculture . 




WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 
1908. 






Issued June 27, 1908. 



U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, 

BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY.— Bulletin 105. 

A. D. MELVIN, Chief of Bureau. 



H 
2 V 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE: 

DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES. 



BY 



C. F. DOANE, M. S., 

• Assistant Dairyman, Dairy Division, 
AND 

H. W. LAWSON, M. S., M. D., 

Office of Experiment Stations, Department of Agriculture . 




WASHINGTON: 
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 



1908. 



,,^ 



<S 



THE BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. 

c^ \* V 

Chief: A. D. Melvin. ' > fvV 

Assistant Chief ; A. M. Farrington. >P\, 

Chief Clerk: E. B. Jones. - 

Biochcmic Division: M. Dorset, chief; James A. Emery, assistant chief. 

Dairy Division: Ed. H. Webster, chief; C. B. Lane, assistant chief. 

Inspection Division: Rice P. Steddom, chief; Morris Wooden, R. A. Ramsay, 
and Albert E. Behnke, associate chiefs. 

Pathological Division: John R. Mohler, chief; Henry J. Washburn, assistant 
chief. 

Quarantine Division: Richard W. Hickman, chief. 

Division of Zoology: B. H. Ransom, chief. 

Experiment Station: E. C. Schroeder, superintendent; W. E. Cotton, assistant. 

Animal Husbandman: George M. Rommel. 

Editor: James M. Pickens. 

DAIRY DIVISION. 

Chief: Ed. H. Webster. 
Assistant Chief: C. B. Lane. 

Dairy farming investigations, B. II Rani in charge. 

Southern dairying: B. H. Rawl, S. E. Barnes, J. E. Dorman, T. E. Woodward, 
C. 0. Moser, J. C. Guthrie, and A. K. Risser, assistant dairymen; Duncan Stuart, 
assistant in dairying; J. A. Conover, scientific assistant in dairying; H. P. Lykes 
and J. T. Eaton, agents in dairying. 

Dairy records: Wm. Hart Dexter, assistant dairyman. 

Dairy products investigations, L. A. Rogers in charge. 

Butter: John L. Sherk, expert; W. S. Smarzo and P. H. Kicffer, collaborators. 

Cheese: C. F. Doane, A. W. Dox, and Charles Thorn, assistant dairymen; T. W. 
Issajeff, expert cheese maker; J. W. Moore, F. R. Thomson, experts in dairying; S. K. 
Suzuki, collaborator; L. D- Bushnell, expert in dairy bacteriology. 

Milk secretion: R. H. Shaw, assistant dairyman; A. E. Perkins, scientific assistant; 
A. H. Douglass, assistant chemist; J. O. Halverson, expert in dairy chemistry. 

Milk: L. A. Rogers, bacteriological chemist; C. R. Potteiger, dairy bacteriologist. 

Organization and management investigations. 

Creameries, drafting and designing: B. D. White, assistant dairyman, in charge; 
C. W. Fryhofer, sci-ghtific assistant; H. J. Credicott and J. G. Winkjer, assistant 
dairymen; Robert McAdam, inspector; K. E. Parks, architect. 

Market milk service: C. B. Lane, assistant chief, in charge; G. M. Whitaker, dairy 
inspector; Ivan C. W r eld, assistant dairyman. 

Renovated butter inspection. 

M. W. Lang, dairy inspector, in charge, 22 Fifth avenue, room 510, Chicago, 111.; 
Levi Wells, dairy inspector, 6 Harrison street, New York, N. Y.; S. B. Willis and 
H. P. Olsen, deputy inspectors. 



rr-r 8 1908 
D.otD. 



LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. 



U. S. Department of Agriculture, 

Bureau of Animal Industry, 
Washington, D. C, January 18, 1908. 
Sir: I have the honor to transmit herewith, and to recommend 
for publication as a bulletin of this Bureau, a manuscript entitled 
"Varieties of Cheese: Descriptions and Analyses." This paper was 
prepared under the direction of the chief of the Dairy Division by 
C. F. Doane, assistant dairyman in that division, and H. W. Lawson, 
of the Office of Experiment Stations. 

The work is a compilation of descriptions and analyses of all the 
varieties of domestic and foreign cheese about which it has been 
possible to obtain such information in the literature bearing upon 
the subject. In a number of cases only meager details could be 
secured, and owing to the size of the work the descriptions are neces- 
sarily of a very condensed nature. 

Acknowledgment is made of the courtesies and assistance ex- 
tended by the Office of Experiment Stations in the preparation of 
this bulletin. 

Respectfully, A. D. Melvin, 

Chief of Bureau. 
Hon. James Wilson, 

Secretary of Agriculture. 

3 



CONTENTS. 



Page. 

Introduction 5 

Descriptions of varieties of cheese 7 

Analyses of cheese 56 

Sources of analytical data 63 

Index 69 

4 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE: DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES. 



INTRODUCTION. 

The amount of cheese imported into the United States is increas- 
ing rapidly. During the 6 years from 1900 to 1905, inclusive, the 
value of the imports increased from $1,946,033 to $3,875,161. Italy 
and Switzerland supplied the bulk of this cheese, most of the re- 
mainder coining from France and Holland. The best known of the 
varieties of cheese imported were the Parmesan and Gorgonzola 
from Italy, the Emmental from Switzerland, the Roquefort, Camem- 
bert, and Brie from France, and the Edam from Holland. The 
growing demand for cheese is not, however, confined to these well- 
known varieties, much interest being manifested in many kinds as 
yet of very little commercial importance but highly esteemed in the 
localities where produced. 

Attempts have long been made in this country to imitate some of 
the European varieties and in some instances the results have been 
decidedly successful. The manufacture of Swiss, or Emmental, and 
of Limburg types has become well established. The investigations 
conducted at the Storrs Agricultural Experiment Station in Con- 
necticut have shown that cheese of the Camembert type, equal in 
every way to the imported article, may be produced in the United 
States. This Department is cooperating in investigations of this 
kind and recently results have been obtained which make it prac- 
tically certain that a cheese of the nature of Roquefort or Stilton 
can likewise be produced in this country. 

Information concerning the manufacture and composition of the 
numerous varieties of cheese is not very accessible to English readers 
and the apparent need of some work of reference, in connection at 
least with the importation and home production of cheese, has, 
therefore, led to the preparation of the descriptive notes and the 
compilation of the analytical data contained in this bulletin. 

The descriptions are, for the most part, based upon data contained 
in treatises on dairying and in articles in foreign periodicals. While 
in many instances they are very incomplete and possibly at times 
inaccurate, they nevertheless contain in condensed form practically 
all the important information that it has been possible to secure in 

5 



6 INTRODUCTION. 

an extended search through the literature relating in any way to 
the subject. Owing to the large number of publications consulted, 
it has seemed impracticable to give references to the descriptive 
matter. 

The analyses have been compiled in most instances from the original 
publications. In all cases, however, the sources of the data have 
been given in the list of references which follows the table of analyses. 
No effort has been made to collect the numerous analyses of filled 
cheese, and in the case of American Cheddar cheese only a part of 
the available data has been included in the compilation. 



DESCRIPTIONS OF VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

ABERTAM. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made from sheep's milk in the region of Carlsbad, 
Bohemia. 

ALEMTEJO. 

This name is applied to rather soft cheeses made in the province of Alemtejo, Portu- 
gal. They are cylindrical in shape and are made in three sizes averaging in weight 
about 2 ounces, 1 pound, and 4 pounds, respectively. They are made for the most 
part from the milk of sheep, though goat's milk is often added, especially for the 
smaller sizes. The milk is warmed and curdled usually with an extract prepared 
from the flowers of a kind of thistle. The cheeses are ripened for several weeks. 

ALPIN. 

This is a kind of Mont d'Or cheese made in the Alpine regions of France. It is also 
known as Clerimbert. The milk is coagulated with rennet at 80° F. in two hours. 
The curd is dipped into molds 3 to 4 inches in diameter and 2\ inches in height. The 
cheese is allowed to drain and is turned several times during one day, after which it 
is salted and ripened for eight to fifteen days. 

ALTENBURG. 

This is a goat's-milk cheese made in Germany, where it is known as Altenburger 
Ziegenkii.se. A cheese is 8 inches in diameter, 1 to 2 inches in thickness, and weighs 
about 2 pounds. 

AMBERT. 

This cheese, known as Fourme d'Ambert, is a cylindrical-shaped imitation Roque- 
fort cheese made from cow's milk. It is said to differ from other forms of blue or imi- 
tation Rocpiefort cheese made in the southeastern part of France in that the salt is 
mixed with the curd rather than rubbed on the surface of the cheese. 

ANCIEN IMPERIAL. 

The curd is prepared in the same manner for this cheese as for Neufchatel. The 
cheese is about 2 inches square and one-half inch thick. It is also known as Petit 
Carre' and when ripened as Carre Affine. The cheese is sold and consumed both while 
fresh and after ripening. The ripening process is not essentially different from that 
of Neufchatel. 

APPENZELL. 

This cheese, which is very similar to Fmmental, is made in the Canton of Appenzell, 
Switzerland, and also in Bavaria and Baden. It is usually made of skim milk but 
sometimes of whole milk. 

BACKSTEIN. 

Backstein, meaning brick, is so called from its shape, but it is not identical with the 
Brick cheese made in the United States. The process of manufacture is similar to 
that of Liinburg. 

7 



8 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

BANBURY. 

This was a soft, rich cheese, very popular in England in the early part of the nine- 
teenth century. It was a cylindrical cheese about 1 inch thick. 

BARBEREY. 

This is a soft rennet cheese resembling Camembert and deriving its name from the 
village of Barberey near Troyes, France. It is also commonly known as Fromage de 
Troves. The milk while still fresh and warm is coagulated with rennet, the time 
allowed being usually about four hours. The uncut curd is put into a wooden mold 
having a perforated bottom. After draining for three hours the cheese is turned into 
an earthenware mold, the wooden one being removed alien - twenty-four hours. The 
cheeses are salted, dried in a well-ventilated room, and ripened for about three week&, 
usually in a subterranean curing room. In summer the cheese is often sold without 
ripening. A cheese is 5 to 6 inches in diameter and 1]- inches in thickness. 

BATTLEMAT. 

This is an Emmental cheese made in the Canton of Tessin, Switzerland, in the 
western part of Austria, and in the northern part of Italy. It is recommended for 
localities where a great quantity of milk can not be obtained. The cheese is circular 
in form, about 16 inches in diameter and 4 inches high, and weighs from 40 to 80 
pounds. It is cooked at a slightly lower temperature than the Emmental and is a 
little softer when ripened. It ripens more rapidly than the Emmental, being ready 
for market in about four months. 

BAUDEN. 

Baudenkase is a sour-milk cheese made in the herders' huts in the mountains be- 
tween Bohemia and Silesia in essentially the same manner as Harzkase. It is made 
up in two forms, one conical with a diameter and a height of 3^ inches, and the other 
cylindrical, with a diameter of 5 inches and a height of 2\ inches. It is also known 
locally as Koppenkase. 

BELGIAN COOKED. 

The milk which has been allowed to curdle spontaneously is skimmed and the curd 
heated to 135° to 140° F. and then placed in a cloth and allowed to drain. When 
dry it is thoroughly kneaded by hand and is allowed to undergo fermentation, which 
takes ordinarily from ten to fourteen days in winter and six to eight days in summer. 
When the fermentation is complete, cream and salt are added and the mixture is heated 
gently and stirred until homogeneous, when it is put into molds and allowed to ripen 
for eight days longer. A cheese ordinarily weighs about 3^ pounds. It is not essen- 
tially different from other forms of cooked cheese. 

BELLELAY. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from whole milk and sometimes called Tete de 
Moine, and Monk's Head. This cheese originated with the monks of the Canton of 
Bern, Switzerland, in the fifteenth century, and is made exclusively in that locality 
at the present time. 

The sweet milk is set at about 90° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in twenty 
to thirty minutes. The curd is cut comparatively fine and is stirred while being 
heated slowly to a temperature of 110°. It is cooked much firmer than Limburg 
and not so firm as Emmental. 

When cooked the curd is dipped into wooden hoops lined with cloth. The cheeses 
are pressed in rotation for a few minutes at a time, one press being used for a number 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 9 

of cheeses. After pressing, tln> cheeses arc wrapped in bark for a couple of weeks, or 
until they arc firm enough to require do support. They are cured in a moist cellar 
at a comparatively low temperature, as it is not desired to have eyes develop. The 

cheese when ready for market lias a diameter (if 7 inches and weighs from 9 to 15 pounds. 
It ripens in about twelve months and will keep for three or four years. It has a soft, 
buttery consistency and can be spread on bread for eating. 

BERGQUARA. 

This is a Swedish cheese resembling Grouda. It was known in Sweden in the eight- 
eenth century. 

BLEU. 

The names rate Bleu and Fromage Bleu are applied to several kinds of hard rennet 
cheese made from cow's milk in imitation of Roquefort cheese in the southeastern part 
of France. Owing to the mottled, marbled, or veined appearance they are also desig- 
nated Fromage Persille. Among these are Gex, Sassenage, and Septmoncel. This 
name is also applied locally to several more or less distinct kinds made in the regions 
of the Auvergne and Aubrac mountains and designated Bleu d'Auvergne, Cantal, 
(iuiolc or Laguiole, and Saint flour. Other cheeses of this order mentioned as made 
in France are Queyras, Champoleon, Sarraz, and Journiac'. 

BOUDANNE. 

This is a French cheese made from cow's milk. The milk, either whole or skimmed, 
is heated to about 85° F., sufficient rennet is added to secure coagulation in one hour, 
and the curd is cut to the size of peas, stirred, and heated to 100° or above. After 
si anding for ten to fifteen minutes the curd is pressed by hand and put into molds 8 
inches in diameter and 3 inches in height. The cheeses are drained, turned fre- 
quently, salted, and ripened for two to three months. 

BOX (FIRM). 

This cheese, known in different localities where made as Hohenburg, Mondsee, and 
Weihenstephan, is made from whole cow's milk and is a rather firm rennet cheese. 
The flavor is said to he mild hut piquant. The milk is heated to 90° to 93° F. in a 
kettle, is colored with saffron, and set with sufficient rennet to curdle it in twenty to 
t wenty-five minutes. The curd is cut up as fine as peas and the contents of the kettle 
arc heated very slowly to a temperature of 105°, being stirred meanwhile. The 
fire is then removed and the curd allowed to settle for five minutes, when the whey 
is dipped off. The curd is then dipped into a cloth and from this is scooped into 
hoops. Light pressure is applied and in fifteen minutes the cheese is turned, and the 
turning is repeated frequently for several hours. The cheese is kept in a well-venti- 
lated room at (i()° for three to live days, after which it is taken to the cellar. It is 
salted by rubbing or sprinkling salt on the surface. Ripening requires from two to 
three months. The cheese weighs from 1 to -1 pounds, and is undoubtedly similar to 
the Brick cheese of the United States. 

BOX (SOFT). 

This is a rennet cheese made from partially skimmed cow's milk and known locally 
as Schachtelkase. It is a rather unimportant variety produced in Wurttemberg in a 
small locality called Ilohonheim, a name which the cheese often takes. 

In making this cheese the skimmed evening's milk is mixed with the whole morn- 
ing's milk, or a pari of the milk is skimmed with a centrifuge and is mixed with an 
equal volume of whole milk. The cheese is made in a, copper kettle. The milk is 
wanned to 110° F., colored with saffron, and rennet added. It is allowed to stand for 
30022— Bull. 105— OS 2 



10 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

one to one and one-half hours before cutting. The curd is cut into rather coarse par- 
ticles, after which it is allowed to stand for a few minutes, when the whey is dipped 
off, and for every 200 pounds of milk used a small handful of caraway seed is added. 
The curd is then dipped into hoops 6i inches in height and the same in diameter. It 
remains in these hoops for ten hours and is frequently turned, after which it is trans- 
ferred to a wooden hoop only one-half as high, where it remains for twelve hours. The 
cheese is then sprinkled with salt and put in the ripening cellar, where it remains 
about three months. 

A soft rennet cheese known as Fromage de Boite is made in the mountains of Doubs, 
France, in the fall. It resembles Pont l'Eveque. 

BRA. 

This cheese is made by nomads in the region of Bra in Piedmont, Italy. It is a hard 

rennet cheese weighing about 12 pounds. The milk, which is partly skimmed, is 

heated to about 90° F., and sufficient rennet is added to coagulate it in thirty to forty 

minutes. The curd is cut to the size of rice grains and the whey removed after about 

one-half of an hour. The curd is put into a form about 12 inches in diameter and 3 

inches in height and subjected to pressure for twelve to twenty-four hours. It is 

salted by immersion in brine and also by sprinkling salt on the surface. The 

cheese is then ripened. 

BRAND. 

This is a German hand cheese weighing about one-third of a pound, made from sour- 
milk curd cooked at a little higher temperature than ordinarily practiced. The curd 
is salted and allowed to ferment one day. It is then mixed with butter, pressed into 
shape and dried, and finally placed in kegs to ripen, during which process it is mois- 
tened occasionally with beer. 

BRICK. 

The exact derivation of this name is not known. It may have been adopted because 
of the shape, or because of the fact that bricks are used almost exclusively for weight- 
ing down the press. ' Brick cheese is a rennet cheese made from unskimmed cow's 
milk, and is purely an American product. In characteristics it is about halfway 
between Limbing and Emmental. It has a strong, sweetish taste, a sort of elastic 
texture, and many small round eyes or holes. It is made about 10 by 6 by 3 inches 
in size. There are many factories making this product, especially in southern 
Wisconsin. 

Perfectly sweet milk is set in a vat at 86° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in 
twenty to thirty minutes. The curd is cut with Cheddar curd knives, and is then 
heated to 110° to 120° and stirred constantly. The cooking is continued until the 
curd has become firm enough so that a handful squeezed together will fall apart when 
released. The curd is then dipped into the mold, which is a heavy rectangular box 
without a bottom and with slits sawed in the sides to allow drainage. The mold is 
set on the draining table, a follower is put on the curd, and 1 or 2 bricks are used on 
each cheese for pressure. The cheeses are allowed to remain in the molds for twenty- 
four hours, when they are removed, rubbed all over with salt, and piled three deep. 
The salting is done each day for three days, after which the cheese is taken to the 
ripening cellar, which should have a temperature of from 60° to 65° and be compara- 
tively moist. Ripening requires two months. 

BRICKBAT. 

This is a rennet cheese made as early as the eighteenth century in Wiltshire, Eng- 
land. It is made from fresh milk, to which a small portion of cream has been added. 
The milk is set at about 90° F. and allowed to stand two hours before the curd is 
disturbed. The curd is cut coarse, dipped into wooden forms, and light pressure 
applied. The cheese is said to be fit for consumption for one year after being made. 



VABIETIES OF CHEESE. 11 

BRIE. 

i 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk. The cheese varies in size and 
also in quality, depending on whether whole or partly skimmed milk is used. The 
method of manufacture closely resembles that of Camembert. 

This cheese has been made in France for several centuries. Mention was made of 
it as early as 1407. It is made throughout France, but more extensively in the Depart- 
ment of Seine et Marne, in which it doubtless originated. This Department contains 
Meaux, Coulommiers, and Melun, places noted for their manufacture of Brie cheese, 
though often under local names. More or less successful imitations of this cheese are 
made in other countries. It was estimated that 7,000,000 pounds of Brie cheese was 
sold in Paris during 1900. The export trade is also very important. 

The milk used is usually perfectly fresh. It is not uncommon, however, to mix the 
evening's milk, when kept cool over night, with the morning's milk. Some artificial 
coloring matter is added to the milk, which is then set with rennet at a temperature 
of 80° to 85° F. After standing undisturbed for about two hours the curd is dipped 
into forms or hoops, of which there are three sizes in common use. The largest size is 
about 15 inches in diameter, the medium size about 12 inches in diameter, and the 
smallest size about (i inches in diameter. These vary in height from 2 to 3 inches. 
Alter draining for twenty-four hours without pressure being applied, the hoops are 
removed and the surface of the cheese is sprinkled with salt. Charcoal is sometimes 
mixed with the salt used. The cheese is then transferred to the first curing room, 
which is kept dry and well ventilated. After remaining in this room for about eight 
days, the cheese becomes covered with mold. It is then transferred to the second 
curing room or cellar, which is usually very dark, imperfectly ventilated, and has a 
temperature of about (i0° F. The cheese remains here for from two to four weeks or 
until the consistency and odor indicate that it is sufficiently ripened. The red colora- 
tion which the surface of the cheese finally acquires has been attributed to an organism 
designated Bacillus firmatatis. The ripening is due to one or more species of molds 
which occur on the surface and produce enzyms which in turn cause a gradual and 
progressive breaking down of the casein from the exterior toward the center. The 
interior of a ripened cheese varies in consistency from waxy to semiliquid and has a 
very pronounced odor and a sharp characteristic taste. 

BRINSEN. 

This cheese, known locally as Laudoch, Zips, Liptau, Siebenburgen, Neusohl, Alt- 
sohl, and Klencz, is made in the Carpathian Mountains of Silesia from sheep's milk, 
or a mixture of sheep's and goat's milk. 

The cheese is made in small lots, only 2 to 4 gallons of milk being used at one time. 
This is put into a kettle when fresh and sufficient rennet is added with the milk at a 
temperature of from 75° to 85° F. to secure coagulation in fifteen minutes. The curd 
is broken up and the whey dipped and the curd is placed in a linen sack and allowed 
to drain for twenty-four hours. It is then cut into pieces and placed on a board, where 
with frequent turnings it is allowed to remain until it commences to get smeary, which 
requires about eight days. The pieces are then laid one on top of another in a vessel 
holding from 40 to (iO pounds, where they remain for twenty-four hours, after which 
they are removed, the rind cut away, and the curd or partially cured cheese broken up 
in another vessel. After ten hours salt is stirred in and the curd run through a mill 
which cuts it very fine, when it is packed in a tub with beech shavings. 

BROCCIO. 

This is a sour-milk cheese made from sheep's milk in Corsica. It is sometimes mixed 
with sugar and rum and made into small cakes. It is similar to Ziger. 



12 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

BURGUNDY. 

This cheese, known in France as Fromage de Bourgogne, is described as a soft, white, 
loaf-shaped cheese weighing about 4 pounds. 

CACIOCAVALLO. 

This is a somewhat peculiar kind of cheese made from either whole or partly skimmed 
cow's milk. Various explanations have been made as to the origin of the name, which 
means literally horse cheese. One explanation offered is that the cheese was originally 
made in the region of Monte Cavallo, and another is that the imprint of a horse's 
head was made in each cheese as the trade-mark of the original manufacturer. The 
original home of this cheese was southern Italy, but it is now made extensively in 
northern Italy as well. The history of the cheese dates back several centuries. 

The temperature of the coagulation of the milk with rennet varies greatly but is 
usually from 90° to 95° F. The time allowed for coagulation is also variable, being 
usually about one-half hour. The curd is cut very finely and sometimes allowed to 
ferment for twenty-four hours, when it is heated by means of very hot water, or more 
commonly hot whey, and subsequently worked by hand until all the whey is expressed 
and the curd becomes homogeneous and capable of being drawn out into long threads. 
It is then molded into any desired shape and salted by immersion in brine for about 
two days. The cheeses are suspended in pairs from the ceiling and lightly smoked. 
The surface may be rubbed with olive oil or butter. They are kept in a cool, dry 
room until sold. As seen on the market they vary much in size and shape. On an 
average they weigh about 3 pounds. The most common shape is that resembling a 
beet, a constriction near the top being due to the string which is tied around the cheese 
for the purpose of hanging it up. This cheese is s< >met imes eaten while comparatively 
fresh but is more frequently kept for months and then grated and used for flavoring 
soups and as an addition to macaroni and similar foods. A small quantity is imported 
into the United States. 

CAERPHILLY. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made in Wales from unskimmed cow's milk. The milk 
is set very sweet at a temperature of 85° F. with enough rennet to coagulate it in one 
hour. The curd is cut in tj-inch cubes and stirred for one hour without further heating. 
It is then put in cloths and subjected to light pressure for an hour and is again broken 
up fine and put to press, where it remains with daily changing for three days. During 
this time one-half ounce salt to each pound of curd is rubbed on the surface. Each 
cheese weighs about 8 pounds. The cheese requires about three weeks for ripening, 
at a temperature of G5 to 70°. 

CAMBRIDGE. 

This is a soft rennet English cheese made from cow's milk. Milk is set at 90° F. and 
rennet added. At the jnd of one hour the curd is dipped into molds without cutting 
a"nd allowed to stand for thirty hours, when it is ready for eating. 

CAMEMBERT. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk. A typical cheese is about -It 
inches in diameter and 1{ inches thick and is usually found on the market in this 
country wrapped in paper and inclosed in a wooden box of the same shape. The 
cheese usually has a rind about one-eighth of an inch in thickness which is composed 
of molds and dried cheese. The interior is yellowish in color and waxy, creamy, or 
almost fluid in consistency, depending largely upon the degree of ripeness. 

Camembert cheese is said to have originated in 1791 in the locality from which it 
derives its name in the Department of Orne, in the northwestern part of France. The 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 13 

industry extended soon into Calvados, and these two Departments are still the prin- 
cipal seat of the industry. Cheese of the same type, however, is made in other parts of 
France and also in other countries; among these are Compiegne, Contentin, Pavilion, 
Soumaintrain, and Thui y-en-Valois. Very successful results have been obtained at 
the Storrs Agricultural Experiment Station in Connecticut. 

Camembert cheese is made from whole fresh milk or from milk which has been 
partly skimmed. The evening's milk may be skimmed and mixed with the fresh 
morning's milk. The temperature of setting is about 80° to 85° F., and the quantity 
of rennet, added for this purpose is sufficient to secure the desired degree of firmness in 
about- two hours. The curd is then transferred, usually with as little breaking up as 
possible, to perforated tin forms or hoops about 4} indies in diameter and (he same 
in height. These resl upon rush mats which permit free drainage. The Idling of the 
forms may be done at two or three limes separated by short, intervals allowed for the 
curd to settle. Each form holds the equivalent in curd of about 2 quarts of milk. 
After draining for about eighteen hours, and preferably in a room having a uniform 
temperature of (;r>° to 70°, the cheese is turned. This is repeated frequently for about 
two days, when the cheese is removed from the forms and sailed on the outside. Two 
or three days later the cheese is transferred to a well-ventilated room where the ripen- 
ing process begins. The cheese remains here for fifteen to twenty days, during which 
lime it is turned very frequently and the surface becomes covered with molds, which 
gradually produce a breaking down of the casein. It, is then taken to the curing 
cellar, where the ripening process is completed in about three weeks, when it is packed 
and marketed.. 

CANQUILLOTE. 

This is a skim-milk cheese made in the eastern part of France. It is also known 
locally as Fromagere, and Tempeto. The milk is allowed to coagulate spontaneously, 
after which it is heated gently and the whey drawn off. The curd is pressed in order 
lo remove as much of the whey as possible, crumbled fine, and fermented at, a temper- 
ature of about 70° F. for two or three days, during which time it is stirred frequently. 
When the cheese has acquired its characteristic taste it is melted with the addition of 
water, salt, eggs, and butter and put into molds of various kinds. 

CANTAL. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made from cow's milk more or less skimmed. Its 
manufacture is extensive in the Department of Cantal, France. It, is also known as 
Auvergne or Auvergne Blue on account of its being manufactured in the region of the 
Auvergne Mountains. Locally the cheese is commonly known as Fourme. The 
cheese is doubtless a very old variety and the method of manufacture has remained 
cpute primitive. The milk^usually fresh but sometimes several hours old, is set, with 
rennet at a temperature of about 85° F., the time allowed for coagulation being about 
thirty minutes. The curd is then cut very finely and the whey dipped off. The curd 
is subjected to pressure in order to remove as much of the whey as possible, and is 
allowed to ferment for twenty-four hours, which process is considered very important. 
The curd is then broken up by hand or by machinery and salted at (he rale of 2.5 to ?. 
per cent. When thoroughly kneaded it is put into hoops about 14 inches in diameter. 
Pressure is applied for about two days, during which time it is turned very frequently. 
The cheese is next transferred to the curing cellar, where it remains for six weeks to 
six months. The yield of cheese is usually 10 to 11 per cent of the weight of the milk. 
A ripened cheese weighs from 40 to 120 pounds. 

champol£on. 

Champoh'on, or Queyras, is a hard rennet cheese made from skim milk in the 
Department of Hautes-Alpes, France. 



14 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

CHAOURCE. 

This is a soft whole-milk rennet cheese resembling Camembert and deriving its 
name from the village of Chaource, in the Department of Anbe, France. It is about 
4 inches in diameter and 3 inches thick. 

CHASCHOL DE CHASCHOSIS. 

This cheese is made in the Canton of Grisons. Switzerland. It is a hard rennet 
cheese made from skimmed cow's milk. The cheeses are IS to 22 inches in diameter, 
3 to 4 inches high, and weigh from 22 to 40 pounds. 

CHEDDAR. 

This cheese is so named from the village of Cheddar in Somersetshire, England, 
where it was first made. It is a comparatively old cheese, though the genuine 
Cheddar process as it is now known is not old. Cheddar cheese is an exceedingly 
popular variety, being much used as a food product in America and England. It is 
probably the most important of all cheeses as regards the quantity made annually. 
The term Cheddar as used at the present time applies usually to a process of making 
rather than to any particular shape of cheese. The name however, is occasionally 
used to designate a certain size of cheese 14 to 16 inches in diameter, and weighing 
from 60 to 100 pounds. Cheese made by the Cheddar process has. however, many 
different shapes with distinguishing names, such as Flats, which have the same 
diameter as the Cheddar size but weigh only 30 to 40 pounds; Daisies, which are 12 
inches in diameter and weigh 20 pounds: Young Americas, which are 8 inches in 
diameter and weigh 8 to 12 pounds; Long Horns, which are 5 inches in diameter 
and weigh 12 pounds; and Squares, which are of various sizes and usually 3 to 4 
inches thick. The cheese may be white or colored yellow, and it may be almost 
fresh or thoroughly ripened and broken down. It is made from sweet cow*s milk, 
which may be skimmed, partly skimmed, or unskimmed, When made from un- 
skimmed milk the cheese is called •full cream;" when otherwise, it is called "part 
skim" or "skim." 

The milk, morning's and evening's mixed, is set at 85° F. with sufficient rennet to 
coagulate to the proper point in from twenty-five to forty minutes. At the time of 
setting the milk should have an acidity of about 0.18 to 0.20 per cent. Color may 
or may not be used. The curd is cut when it breaks evenly before the finger. The 
cutting is done with curd knives. These knives are made up of blades set about 
one-third of an inch apart in frames. In one frame the knives are set perpendicularly 
and in the other horizontally. When well cut the curd is in uniform cubes of about 
one-third of an inch. 

Alter cutting the curd is heated slowly and with continued stirring until it reaches 
a temperature of from 96° to 108°. With the use of mechanical agitators, as is the 
common practice, the cu«d should be heated about 4 degrees higher than when stirring 
is done by hand. After heating the stirring is continued intermittently until the 
curd is sufficiently firm. This is determined by squeezing a handful, which should 
fall apart immediately on being released. The whey is then drawn. At the same 
time the acid should have reached about 0.20 per cent or one-fourth of an inch on the 
hot iron, which latter is determined by measuring the length of strings when the 
curd is touched to a hot iron. The curd is then matted about 4 inches deep, some- 
times in the bottom of the vat. sometimes on racks covered with a coarse linen cloth. 
After it has remained here long enough to stick together it is cut into rectangular 
pieces easy to handle, which are turned frequently and finally piled two to four 
deep; in the meanwhile the temperature of the curd is kept at about 90°. When 
the curd has broken down until it has the smooth feeling of velvet, which requires 
from one to three hours, it is milled bv means of a machine, which cuts it into pieces 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 15 

the size of a finger. It is then stirred <>n the bottom of the vat until whey ceaa 
run. which requires from one-half to one and one-half hours, when it is salted at tin- 
rat'- of 2 to 2\ pounds of salt to 100 pounds of milk. It is then ready to put in pi 
The curd is put into tinned iron hoops of the proper size, which are lined with 
cheese-cloth bandages. The hoops are put in presses and great pressure is applied 
by means of screws. The next morning the cheese is removed from the hoops and 
put on shelves in a curing room. Formerly the cheese was kept in a curing room as 
long as six months, but at the present time it is covered with a coat of paraffin and 
put in cold storage when three to twelve days of age. There is a growing demand 
on the part of consumers for mild cheese, and consequently ripening must be carried 
on at a temperature below 50°. 

An important point in the process of manufacturing Cheddar cheese is the develop- 
ment of the desired amount of acid. A maximum quantity in the whey that can 
be developed without injuring the texture of the cheese is aimed at. and the proper 
breaking down of tin- curd before milling and salting is attributed to the acid. It 
is very probable thai too much weight has been placed on the desirability of a maxi- 
mum development of acid, and that practically as good cheese can be produced 
without the high acid. 

CHESHIRE. 

This cheese is one of the oldest and most popular of the English varieties. It is a 
rennet cheese made from unskimmed cow's milk, and is named for Chester County, 
England, where it is largely produced. It is made in cylindrical shape from 14 to 16 
inches in diameter, and weighs 50 to 70 pounds. In making this cheese sufficient 
annatto is used to give the product a very high color. The process of manufacture 
varies in detail in different sections. Perfectly sweet milk, night's and morning's 
mixed, is set at a temperature of from 75° to 90° F. The curd is cut in one hour, 
usually with an instrument in which knives are set in a frame to cut cubes 1 to 1\ 
inches square. This is pushed down through the curd and finally worked back and 
forth at an angle. This is continued until the particle.-: of curd are the size of peas, 
which requires about one hour. The curd is then allowed to settle and mat on the 
bottom of the vat for about an hour, when it is rolled up to one end, weighted down, 
and the whey drawn after the desired degree of acidity has been obtained. The curd 
is cut in pieces the right size to handle and is piled on racks. It is then run through 
a curd mill, Baited at the rate of 3 pounds to 1,000 pounds of milk, and put into a 
hoop having a number of holes in the side through which skewer.- can be thrusl into 
the cheese to promote drainage. The cheese in the hoop is put in a heated wooden 
box called an oven, and sometimes light pressure is applied, the pressure increasing 
gradually until it reaches about 1 ton. The curing cellar or room is about 60° to 65°. 
From eight to ten months is required for thorough ripening. 

CHESHIRE-STILTON. 

This is a combination of the Cheshire and Stilton varieties of cheese in which the 
general characteristics of size and shape and manufacture of the Cheshire is retained, 
and a growth of the mold peculiar to Stilton is secured. The mold is secured by 
keeping out each day a small portion of curd and mixing it with some curd in which 
the mold is growing well. 

CHIAVARI. 

This is a sour-milk cheese made in the region of Chiavari, Italy, from whole cows' 
milk. It is also known as Cacio Romano. A hard rennet cheese made in the same 
region is also known by this name. 



16 VAEIETIES OP CHEESE. 

COMMISSION. 

This cheese is made in Holland and resembles Edam in the process of manufacture, 
but it has a slightly different shape, being flattened at the ends. It is said to be made 
from whole cow's milk. 

COTHERSTONE. 

This is a rennet cow's-milk cheese made in Yorkshire, England, and resembles the 
well known Stilton cheese of that country. It is a local product manufactured only 
on a small scale. It has also been known as Yorkshire-Stilton. 

COOKED. 

This kind of cheese is so called because the curd is heated to the melting point in 
its manufacture. It is made from fresh curd prepared by breaking up and heating 
the cttrd of sour clabbered milk. When cooled sufficiently this curd is placed in a 
receptacle and allowed to stand for three or four days until it has become colored 
throughout. It is then put into a kettle over a lire; salt, milk, and usually caraway 
seed are added, and the whole is stirred vigorously until it becomes of the consistency 
of thick molasses, or until it strings when a spoon is withdrawn. The mass can then 
l»c put into molds until it becomes cold, or placed in a vessel for keeping. It gets 
hard with cooling and will retain the shape of the mold. 

Cooked cheese, made in northern Germany, is called Topfen, and a similar product 
made in Sardinia is called Freisa, and Paneddas. The same kind of cheese made in 
Belgium is called Belgian cooked cheese. Similar kinds are made in other countries. 

COTTAGE. 

This is a sour-milk cheese made extensively in this country, where it is often called 
Dutch cheese, and Smear-case. It is manufactured usually in a very small way, 
but occasionally it is made in large factories. Skim milk is allowed to sour and the 
curd is then broken up and held at a temperature of about 100° F. for three to four 
hours, or until it has become sufficiently firm. The whey is then drained off and the 
curd placed under slight pressure for a time. The curd is either consumed imme- 
diately or is packed in tubs and placed in cold storage. It is prepared for eating by 
moistening with either milk or cream. Sometimes it is made up into shapes and 
wrapped in tin foil. No ripening is ever allowed. 

COULOMMIERS. 

This is a small-sized Brie cheese 5 to 6 inches in diameter and 1 inch in thickness, 
and weighing about 1 pound. It is made in the region of < 'oulommiers, France. 

CREAM. 

Genuine cream cheese ; s made from a rich cream thickened by souring, or from 
sweet cream thickened with rennet. This is put in a cloth and allowed to drain, the 
cloth being changed several times during the draining, which requires about four days. 
It is then placed on a board covered with a cloth, sprinkled with salt, and turned 
occasionally. It is ready for consumption in from live to ten days. 

Another variety of cream cheese is made from cream with a low content of fat (12 to 
15 per cent). The cream is curdled with rennet, broken up to allow a part of the 
whey to escape, and is then mixed and worked into almost a paste. This is then 
molded into pieces weighing 2 to 4 ounces, which are wrapped in tin foil and placed 
on the market without curing. It is a very mild and a very rich cheese and is manu- 
factured on an extensive scale by a few large factories in the United States. 

A so-called double-cream cheese, known in France as Fromage Double Creme, is 
made by coagulating a mixture of milk and cream and putting this into a cloth and 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 17 

allowing it to drain thoroughly, when it is salted, kneaded, and molded into any 
desired shape. It is eaten fresh. The Gervais is a cheese of this kind. 

A French cream cheese, Fromage a la Creme, is prepared by mixing sweet cream 
with well-ripened sour-milk curd or rennet curd. Another French cream cheese, 
which contains considerable salt as a preservative, is known as Demi-sel. There are 
in addition several cream cheeses having specific names, such as Philadelphia cream. 

CREUSE. 

This is a skim-milk farm cheese made in the Department of the same name in 
France. Coagulation is secured either by the addition of a small quantity of rennet 
or by heating the sour milk. When set with rennet the period required is usually 
twelve hours. The curd is put into earthenware molds about 7 inches in diameter 
and 5 to 6 inches in height, the bottom and sides being perforated. After draining for 
several days the cheese is removed from the molds, salted, and turned frequently. 
It becomes in time very dry and hard and may be preserved for a year or longer. The 
cheese is also ripened by placing in tightly closed receptacles lined with straw, in 
which case it becomes yellow and soft and acquires a very pronounced taste. 

CRISTALINNA. 

% 

This a hard rennet cheese made from cow's milk in the Canton of Graubiinden, 
Switzerland . 

DAMEN. 

This is a soft uncured rennet cheese made from cow's milk in Hungary and is much 
in demand in the markets of Vienna. It is sometimes known as Gloire des Montagnes. 

DANISH EXPORT. 

This cheese is made in some of the creameries of Denmark to furnish an outlet for 
the skim milk and the buttermilk. In the process of manufacture as high as 15 per 
cent of fresh buttermilk is added to the skim milk. The mixture is set at 98° F. with 
sufficient rennet to coagulate in twenty-five minutes. The curd is carefully and 
evenly cut, stirred for a few minutes, dipped into forms having rounded bottoms, 
kneaded, pressed down, and finally covered with a board upon which a weight is 
placed. Twelve hours later the cheeses are placed in a brine tank for twenty-four 
hours, when they are taken out and covered with salt for a short time. They are then 
transferred to the ripening room where the temperature is about 55° and are turned 
and wiped with a cloth every day for five weeks. The cheeses are cylindrical in shape 
and are small and flat. 

DERBYSHIRE. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made from whole cow's milk in Derbyshire, England. 
It is cylindrical in shape and about the size of the Cheshire, though often smaller. It 
is made usually in farm dairies, and because of this fact the size varies with the size 
of the herd. The quality also varies to such an extent that very few really good 
cheeses can be found. Night's milk in which the development of acid has been 
prevented as much as possible is mixed with the morning's milk and the whole is set 
at a temperature of 80° F. The setting period is one hour and the curd is allowed to 
become very firm before cutting. The curd is cut to the size of a pea and after being 
allowed to settle is piled in the center of the vat, where after the whey is removed it is 
subjected to light pressure. The curd is cut and again piled and heavier pressure 
applied. This is repeated until the curd reaches a certain degree of firmness, when it 
is run through a mill and salted at the rate of 1 pound of salt to 1,000 pounds of milk. 
It is then put in a press for one hour, when it is removed and the surface of the cheese 
scalded for one minute in water heated to 150°. It is put back in the press for five 

30022— Bull. 105—08 3 



18 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

hours, the pressure applied being gradually increased, when it is salted on the surface 
and again pressed. The pressing continues for three days, the cheese being salted 
each day. The curing room is kept preferably at 60°, and the time required for curing 
is from three to fovir months. 

A cheese called Gloucester made in the county of Gloucester, England, is said to 
be identical with Derbyshire cheese. Double Gloucester is identical with single 
Gloucester in all respects but size. It is twice as thick as a single Gloucester, hence 
the name. Wiltshire, Leicestershire, and Warwickshire cheeses belong to the Der- 
byshire type. 

DEVONSHIRE CREAM. 

In making this cheese the cream is allowed to rise for several hours, when the milk 
with the layer of cream is scalded. It is then set away for a short time in order that 
the layer of cream may harden. The cream is then put into small molds and placed 
upon straw mats to drain. After becoming hard enough to retain its shape it is ready 
for market. 

DORSET. 

Dorset, or Blue Dorset, is a cheese resembling in character and method of manu- 
facture the better known Stilton. It is named from Dorsetshire, England, in which 
it is made. 

DOTTER. 

This cheese is said to have been made by G. Leuchs, in Nurnberg, by mixing the 
yolk of eggs with skim milk and making this mixture into cheese in the usual way. 

DRY. 

This cheese, known also as Sperrkase and Trockenkase, is made in the eastern part 
of the Bavarian Alps and in the Tyrol, in the small dairies of those localities. It is 
an extremely simple product made for home consumption, and is made only in the 
winter season, when the milk can not be profitably used for other purposes. As soon 
as the milk is skimmed it is put into a large kettle which can be swung over a fire. 
Here it is kept warm until it is thoroughly thickened from souring. It is then broken 
up and cooked quite firm. A small quantity of salt and sometimes some caraway 
seed are added and the curd is put into forms of various sizes. It is then placed in a 
drying room, where it becomes very hard, when it is ready for eating. 

DUEL. 

This is a soft cured rennet cheese made from cow's milk. It is an Austrian prod- 
uct, 2 by 2 by 1 inches in size. 

DUNLOP. 

This was formerly the national cheese of Scotland, but it has been almost super- 
seded by the Cheddar, which it resembled. 

EDAM. 

This is a hard rennet cheese produced in Holland; it is also known as Katzenkopf, 
Tdte de Maure, and Manbollen. The best of the product is made of unskimmed cow's 
milk, but much of it at the present time is made from milk which has had at least 
one-half of the fat removed. The cheeses are round and are colored deep red on the 
surface or wrapped in tin foil. 

The perfectly fresh milk is set at 90° to 95° F. Color is added and sufficient rennet 
is used to coagulate the milk in fifteen minutes. The curd is cut and after a very short 
stirring is allowed to settle to the bottom, when the whey is dipped off. The curd is 
gathered in a pile and pressure is applied for a short time to expel the whey. Care is 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 19 

taken in the meanwhile that the curd docs nol gel below 82° or above 00°. The curd 
is then ready for the press. Sometimes wooden molds are used, bul the best are made 
of iron. An attempt is made to put just sufficient curd into the mold to make a perfect 
sphere when pressed. When the mold is half full a little salt is added. When the 
mold is full, it is pressed lightly until the cheese will hold its form, when it is taken out 
and immersed in water for two minutes at 125°. The cheese is then put in the press, 
where it remains for twelve hours. It is then removed from the mold and placed in 
another form resembling the mold but without a cover, and having a hole leading from 
the bottom. The cheese is salted by rubbing salt on the surface. Sometimes il is 
kept in a .salt bath for a day before putting salt on the surface. Following the salting, 
the cheese is washed in hot whey, and the surface is scraped smooth. It is then taken 
to the ripening cellar, which should have a temperature of between 50° anil 70°. Here 
it is turned daily for a time and finally twice a week. In the meanwhile it is occasion- 
ally moistened with cold water or fresh beer. When the cheese is one month old it is 
washed in water at 70° for twenty minutes and then placed in the sun to dry, after 
which it is rubbed with linseed oil. Before shipping the cheese is colored, usually 
red, but for some markets it is colored yellow with annatto. This coloring is done with 
a watery solution of litmus and Berlin red, or with carmine. A considerable quantity 
of this cheese is imported into the United States. At the present time some Edam 
cheeses are inclosed in air-tight tins for export. 

ELBING. 

This is a West Prussian hard rennet cheese made from cow's milk which, during the 
winter, is partly skimmed but at other times left whole. It is known also as Werder- 
kase, and Niederungskase. Enough rennet is added to the milk at a temperature of 
80° F. to coagulate it in from fifteen to thirty minutes. The curd is cut and cooked to 
100°, salted in the granular state, and pressed for twelve hours. A cheese is 10 to 20 
inches in diameter and 3 to 4 inches in thickness. Ripening requires about one month 
at a temperature of 75°. 

EMMENTAL. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made from unskimmed cow's milk, and has a mild, 
somewhat sweetish flavor. It is characterized by holes or eyes which develop to about 
the size of a penny in typical cheeses and are situated from 1 to 3 inches apart. Chees< \ 
of the same kind made in the United States is known as Domestic Swiss, and that made 
in the region of Lake Constance is called Algau Eminental. Other local names are 
Bellunese, Formaggio Dolce, Fontine d'Aosta, and Thraanen. 

Emmental cheese originated in the Canton of Eminental, Switzerland. It is a very 
old variety. In the middle of the fifteenth century a cheese probably of this type 
was manufactured in the Canton of Emmental. In the middle of the seventeenth 
century the industry was well developed and genuine Emmental cheese was being 
exported. In 1722 its manufacture under the name of Gruyere is recorded in France, 
two cooperative societies having been organized for this purpose. 

Emmental cheese is now manufactured in every civilized country. In the United 
States there are many factories, located principally in Wisconsin, New York, ami 
Ohio. In Switzerland the greater part of the milk produced is made into this product, 
and large districts in France and northern Italy are devoted to its manufacture. The 
best of the product made in Switzerland is exported, about 5,000,000 pounds coming 
to tlic United States annually. The imported cheese sells in this country at about 25 
cents a pound wholesale, and the domestic cheese sells at about 14 cents. Practically 
as good cheese can be manufactured in the United States as in Switzerland, but 
prejudice, combined with the fact that much of the domestic product is sold as 
imported, has held the price at a low level. 

There is a slight difference in manipulation of the milk in making Emmental 
cheese in this country as compared with Switzerland. In the latter country the 



20 VAEIETIES OF CHEESE. 

evening's and morning's milk are made up together, while in the United States it 
is popularly believed that the evening's milk must be made into cheese immediately 
after milking, as is done with the morning's milk. 

In making the cheese in Switzerland the evening's milk is skimmed; the fresh 
morning's milk is heated to 108° to 110° F. and the cream from the evening's milk 
is added and well stirred in. The cooled evening's milk with a little saffron is then 
added and the whole is mixed. The milk is then brought to a temperature of 90° 
in summer and 95° in winter and sufficient rennet is added to coagulate the milk 
in thirty to forty minutes. The whole process is carried through in a huge copper 
kettle holding 300 gallons of milk. The rennet used is the calf's stomach soaked 
for twenty-four hours in whey. When the milk has thickened to almost the desired 
point for cutting, which is practically the same as for ordinary American or Cheddar 
cheese, the thin surface layer is scooped off and turned bottom side up. This is 
supposed to aid in incorporating the layer of cream with the cheese. The curd is 
then cut very coarse by means of a so-called harp. The cheese maker with a wooden 
scoop in each hand then draws the mass of curd toward him, that lying on the bottom 
of the kettle being brought to the surface. At this point the cheese maker and an 
assistant commence stirring the curd with the harp, a breaker having first been fitted 
to the inside of the kettle to interrupt the current of the whey and curd. The harps 
are given a circular motion and cut the curd very fine — about the size of wheat ker- 
nels or smaller. 

After this stage is reached heating is commenced. In Switzerland all of the heat- 
ing until recently was done over an open fire, the kettle being swung on a large crane, 
and most of the factories have the same method at the present time. In this country 
the same method was followed in the early days of the industry, but at the present 
time inclosed fireplaces into which the kettle can be swung and doors closed to retain 
the heat are largely employed. This takes away much of the discomfort of the oper- 
ation. In a few instances the kettles are set in cement and an iron car containing 
the fire is run under it. The more modern factories employ steam, and this appears 
to be the most satisfactory way. When the heating is begun the contents of the kettle 
are brought rapidly to the desired temperature, which may be from 126° to 140°, the 
higher temperature often being necessary to get the curd sufficiently firm. The stir- 
ring in the meanwhile continues for about one hour, with slight interruptions near 
the end of the process when the curd has become so firm that it will not mat 
together. The end of the cooking is determined by the firmness of the curd, which 
is judged by matting a small cake with pressure by the hands and noting the ease 
with which this cake breaks when held by the edge. 

When the curd is sufficiently firm the contents of the kettle are rotated rapidly 
and allowed to come to a standstill as the momentum is lost. This brings all the 
curd into a cone-shaped pile in the center of the kettle. One edge of a heavy linen 
cloth resembling burlap is wrapped around a piece of hoop iron and by this means 
the cloth is slipped under the pile of curd. The mass of curd is then raised from 
the whey by means of a rope and pulley and lowered into a cheese hoop on the 
draining table. These hoops are 4 to 6 inches deep and vary greatly in diameter. 
The cloth is folded over the cheese, a large follower is put on top, and the press is 
allowed to come down on the cheese. The press is usually a log swung at one end 
and operated by a double lever. Pressure is continued for the first time just long 
enough for the curd mass to retain its shape. The hoop is then removed, the cheese 
turned over, and a dry cloth substituted. The cheese is allowed to remain in the 
press about twenty-four hours, during which time it is turned and a dry cloth sub- 
stituted several times (six or more). 

At the end of the pressing the curd should be a homogeneous mass without holes. 
The cheese is then removed to the salting board, covered with a layer of salt, and 
turned occasionally. In a day or two it is put in the salting tank in a brine strong 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 21 

enough to float an egg; it remains here at the discretion of the cheese maker for one 
to four days. Often no brine tank is used with Emmental cheese. 

The cheese is then taken to the curing cellar. In the best factories two or more 
cellars with different temperatures are available and the cheeses are placed in them 
according to the way the cheese maker thinks their development requires. If it 
appears that the cheese may develop too fast and have too many and too large eyes, 
the cheese is placed in a cool cellar; if the reverse is true, a warm cellar is selected. 
The cellars vary in temperature from 55° to 65°, though in extreme cases 70° or a 
little higher may be used. While the cheeses are in the ripening cellar, which in 
Switzerland may be six to ten months or longer, and in the United States- three to six 
months, they should be turned and washed every other day for the first two or three 
months and at longer intervals subsequently, and at the same time a little coarse 
salt is sprinkled on the surface. In a few hours this* salt has dissolved and the brine 
is spread over the'surface with a long-handled brush. 

The cheeses are very large, about 6 inches in thickness and sometimes as much 
as 4 feet in diameter, and weigh from 60 to 220 pounds. In shipping, a number 
of them are placed in a tub which may contain 1,000 pounds of cheese. Sometimes 
Emmental cheese is made up in the form of blocks instead of like millstones. The 
blocks are about 28 inches long and 8 inches square in the other dimensions. 

ENGADINE. 

This is made in the Canton of Graubunden, Switzerland, and is a rennet cheese 
made from unskimmed cow's milk. 

ENGLISH DAIRY. 

This name is applied to a very hard cheese, made in the same general way as Ched- 
dar, but cooked much more. This cheese has been made mostly in the United States. 
It is used for culinary purposes. 

EPOISSE. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from whole or partly skimmed milk in the Depart- 
ment of Cote d'Or, France. 

ERVY. 

This is a soft whole-milk rennet cheese resembling Camembert and deriving its 
name from the village of Ervy, in the Department of Aube, France. A cheese is 
about 7 inches in diameter, 1\ inches thick, and weighs about 4 pounds. 

FARM. 

This cheese, made in France, and known variously as Fromage a la Pie, Mou, Maigre, 
and Ferme, is essentially the same as our Cottage cheese. The method of making is 
very simple. When the skimmed milk has become curdled the whey is poured off 
and the curd kneaded and molded into various sizes and shapes. Draining is some- 
times hastened by placing a board and weight upon the curd. Salt and sometimes 
sweet cream are added. The cheese is consumed usually on the farm where made 
either while fresh or after it has undergone fermentation. 

FILLED. 

Filled cheese is the name applied to cheese from which the butterfat has been re- 
moved and foreign fats added. The foreign fat is added by stirring it violently in the 
milk and setting with sufficient rennet to coagulate quickly. The rest of the manu- 
facture is the same as for Cheddar cheese. Filled cheese was very extensively manu- 
factured in the United States for a number of years, but State and Federal laws have 
made this no longer practical. Many of the European varieties of cheese are counter- 
feited or adulterated in the same manner. 



22 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

FLOWER. 

This cheese is so named because it is made with the addition of the petals of various 
kinds of flowers, such as roses and marigolds. It is a soft-cured rennet cheese made 
in England from whole cow's milk. 

FORMAGELLE. 

This is a small soft ripened rennet cheese made from cow's milk in the northwestern 
part of Italy. 

FORMAGGINI. 

This name is applied to several kinds of small Italian cheeses. The kind designated 
Formaggini di Lecco is a smaH'cylindrical dessert cheese weighing about 2 ounces, 
made in the region of Lecco, in Lombardy. It is consumed while fresh and sweet and 
at all stages of ripening until it becomes very piquant. Sometimes salt, pepper, 
sugar, and cinnamon are mixed with this cheese, and occasionally oil and vinegar are 
added. The method of manufacture is not essentially different from that of other soft 
cheeses. Cow's milk is used with the addition at times of some goat's milk. Rennet 
is added to the warmed milk, which is then allowed to stand for twenty-four hours at a 
temperature of about 55° F. The curd, with as little breaking up as possible, is allowed 
to drain for three to four hours, when it is salted and put into cylindrical molds about 
1\ inches in diameter and 2 inches high. 

FROMAGE FORT. 

Several kinds of cooked cheese prepared in France are known by this name. In 
the Department of Ain, Fromage Fort is prepared by melting well-drained skim-milk 
curd, putting the melted mass into a cloth, and subjecting it to pressure and afterward 
1 nuying it in dry ashes in order to remove as much of the whey as possible. The mass 
is then grated fine and allowed to ferment for eight to ten days, after which milk, 
butter, salt, pepper, wine, etc., are added to it, and the mixture is allowed to undergo 
further fermentation. 

Canquillote, Caneoillotte, or Fromagere, prepared in the eastern part of France, is a 
cheese of this kind, as is also the Fondue, or cooked cheese, of Lorraine. 

GAMMELOST. 

Gammelost is made in Norway from skimmed sour milk. The milk is cooked or 
warmed in a kettle and allowed to stand for one hour while the precipitated casein 
gathers at the bottom. This is taken up in a cloth and the whole is put into a form 
where light pressure is applied . The cheese still in the cloth in the form is put in the 
hot whey for an hour, when it is again placed under pressure for a short period. It 
is put in a warm place and turned daily. At the end of fourteen days it is packed in 
a chest with wet straw. The cheeses vary in weight from 24 to 65 pounds. 

GAUTRAIS. 

This is a cylindrical cheese weighing about 5 pounds and very closely resembling 
Port du Salut. It is made in the Department of Mayenne, France. 

GAVOT. 

This cheese is made from cow's, sheep's, or goat's milk in the Department of Hautes- 
Alpes, France. 

GEHEIMRATH. 

This is a cheese made in small quantities in Holland. It resembles a small Gouda 
cheese in quality and process of manufacture. It is colored a deep yellow. 



varieties of cheese. 23 

gerome. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made in the mountainous regions of the Vosges, France. 
The name is a corruption of Gerardmer, a village in the region where the cheese has 
been made for at least fifty years. The variety is very similar to Minister, but not so 
well known. 

Cow's milk is used almost exclusively, though at times a little goat's milk is added. 
The fresh milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 80° to 90° F. In about 
one-half hour after adding the rennet the curd is cut into rather large cubes and allowed 
to stand for about one hour when the whey is dipped off. The curd is then put into 
cylindrical forms or hoops 6 to 7 inches in diameter. Formerly these were made of 
wood, one being placed upon another, making a total height of 14 to 15 inches. They 
are now being made also of tin and in various sizes. The cheeses are turned after G 
hours and again after 12 hours. During the next two or three days they are turned 
twice daily, the hoops being changed each time. A room temperature between G0° 
and 70° is desired during this process. The cheeses are then salted, the amount of 
salt used being from 3 to 3.5 per cent of the weight of the cheese. 

The cheeses are then placed in a well- ventilated room for several days and when 
sufficiently dry are transferred to the curing cellar. Here they are turned frequently 
and worked with warm salt water to prevent the growth of molds. Ripening requires 
from six weeks to four months, depending upon the size of the cheeses, which vary in 
weight from one-half pound to 5 pounds or more. Anise is sometimes incorporated 
with the curd before put ting into the forms. Such cheese when old often has a greenish 
appearance. 

GERVAIS. 

This is a French cheese made from a mixture of whole milk and cream. The mix- 
ture is set with rennet at about 65° F., the time required being about 12 hours. The 
curd is then inclosed in cloth and hung up to drain. When sufficiently dry it is 
salted and pressed into molds. The molds are soon removed and the cheese is wrapped 
in paraffin paper. The cheese is usually consumed while fresh, but may be kept for 
several days. 

GEX. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made from cow's milk. It belongs to the class of blue 
or marbled cheese known in France as Fromage Persille, which includes Sassenage, 
Septmoncel, and several other kinds resembling Roquefort. It is made principally 
in the southeastern part of France and derives its name from the town of Gex in the 
Department of Ain, where the cheese has been made for at least sixty years. There 
has been little tendency for the industry to extend to other regions than that in which 
it originated, and even here it is said to be diminishing. 

Rennet is added to the fresh milk as soon as possible after milking. The time 
allowed for coagulation is one and one-half to two hours. The curd is then broken up 
and stirred until the mass is in a semiliquid condition, when it is allowed to stand 
for about ten minutes. After the curd has settled to the bottom of the vat the whey 
is drained off. The curd is then worked by hand, salted lightly, and put into hoops 
about 12 inches in diameter and 5 inches in height. In about one hour the cheese is 
turned and a disk and weight placed upon it. The turning is repeated three or four 
times a day, the hoops being removed at the end of the first day. After salting, the 
cheese is taken to the curing room, where it soon acquires a bluish appearance, due 
to the development of a penicillium. This mold is not introduced into the interior 
of the cheese during making by means of mottled bread, as is the case with Roquefort 
cheese. The ripening process, which requires from three to four months, is completed 
in cellars or natural caves. A ripened cheese weighs from 14 to 15 pounds.' 



24 VAK1ETIES OF CHEESE. 

GISLEV. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made in Denmark from skimmed cow's milk. 

GLUMSE. 

This cheese is made from sour skimmed milk in western Prussia. The thickened 
milk is placed over a slow fire at about 105° F. and is cooked as long as any whey is 
expelled. The cooking may be done by pouring hot water into the milk. After 
cooking, the curd is removed from the whey with a perforated dipper and is allowed to 
drain in a hair sieve. Milk or cream is added to the cheese just before eating. This 
is evidently a cottage cheese. 

GOAT'S MILK. 

There are a large number of goat's-milk cheeses, many of which are not designated 
by local names. In France some of these are known by the names Chevret or Chev- 
rotin, in Italy as Formaggio di Capra, and in German-speaking countries as Ziegenkase 
or Gaiskasli. Among those in France to which local names have been attached are 
Gratairon, Lamothe, and Poitiers. 

The Gaiskasli is a soft cheese made in certain parts of Germany and Switzerland. 
The milk is set with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in about 40 minutes. The curd is 
then broken up, stirred, and dipped into cylindrical molds about 3 inches in diameter. 
The mold is filled sufficiently to make a cheese 1\ to 2 inches thick and weighing one- 
half pound. The mold is set on a straw mat which allows the whey to drain freely, 
and salt is sprinkled on the surface. In two days the cheese is turned and the other 
surface is salted. The cheese requires about three weeks to ripen and is said to have a 
very pleasant flavor. 

A kind of cheese is made in Norway by drying goat's milk by boiling, fresh milk or 
cream sometimes being added during the process. 

GORGONZOLA. 

This variety, known also as Stracchino di Gorgonzola, is a rennet Italian cheese 
made from whole cow's milk. The name is taken from the -village of Gorgonzola, near 
Milan, but very little of this cheese is now made in that immediate locality. The 
interior of the cheese is mottled or veined with a penicillium much like Roquefort, 
and for this reason the cheese has been grouped with the R-oquefort and Stilton varie- 
ties. As seen upon the markets in this country, the surface of the cheese is covered 
with a thin coat resembling clay, said to be prepared by mixing barite or gypsum, lard 
or tallow, and coloring matter. The cheeses are cylindrical in shape, being about 12 
inches in diameter and G inches in height, and as marketed are wrapped in paper and 
packed with straw in wicker baskets 

The manufacture of Gorgonzola cheese is an important industry in Lombardy, where 
formerly it was carried on principally during the months of September and October, 
but with the establishment of curing cellars in the Alps, especially near Lecco, the 
manufacture is no longer confined to this season. 

The milk used in making this cheese is warmed to a temperature of about 75° F. and 
coagulated rapidly with rennet, the time required being usually from fifteen to twenty 
minutes. The curd is then cut very finely and inclosed in a cloth and drained, after 
which it is put into hoops 12 inches in diameter and 10 inches high. It was formerly 
the custom to allow the curd from the evening's milk to drain over night and to mix it 
with the fresh warm curd from the morning's milk prepared in the same way. The 
curd from the evening's milk and that from the morning's milk, crumbled very fine, 
were put into hoops in layers with moldy bread crumbs interspersed between the 
layers. The cheese is turned frequently for four or five days, the cloths being changed 
occasionally, and is salted from the outside, the process requiring about two weeks. 



VARIETIES OP CHEESE. 25 

It is then transferred to the curing rooms, where a low temperature is usually main- 
tained. At an early stage in the process of ripening the cheese is usually punched 
with an instrument about 6 inches long tapering from a sharp point to a diameter of about 
one-eighth inch at the base. About 150 holes are made in each cheese. This favors 
the development of the penicillium throughout the interior of the cheese. Well-made 
cheese may be kept for a year or longer. In the region where made, much of the cheese 
is consumed while in a fresh condition. 

GOUDA. 

This is a Holland cheese made from whole or partly skimmed cow's milk. It is 
round and weighs 10 to 45 pounds. The milk, to which coloring matter has been 
added, is set at 91° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in fifteen minutes. The 
curd is cut or broken with a wooden scoop, a harp, or an American cheese knife. It 
is allowed to stand for a minute and the whey is dipped off. Hot whey or hot water 
is poured on the mass of curd until the whole has reached a temperature of 104° to 110°. 
When the curd squeaks or whistles when it is crushed between the teeth, the whey 
or water is dipped off and the curd is stirred and piled where it will drain well. The 
curd is then thoroughly kneaded and sometimes lightly salted. After salting, the 
curd is put into round molds and placed in a press, where it remains for twenty-four 
hours with increasing pressure. The cheese is then salted either by immersion in 
brine or by rubbing salt on the surface. The salting continues for four to eight days. 
After salting, the cheese is washed with hot whey. It is then transferred to the ripening 
cellar, where it is turned daily for several days and finally once a week until ripened. 
It is ready for consumption in six to eight months. When the cheese is a few days 
old it is washed with water and colored with saffron. Some of this cheese is shipped 
to the United States. As seen in this country each cheese is covered with an animal 
tissue said to be a bladder. 

GOURNAY. 

This is a soft rennet cheese which derives its name from the village of Gournay in 
the Department of Seine-Infcrieure, France, where it is made. It is about 3 inches 
in diameter and three-fourths inch thick. 

GOYA. 

This cheese is manufactured in the Province of Corrientes, in the Argentine Re- 
public. Either whole or partly skimmed milk is used. It is heated to a temperature 
of 75° to 85° F. and coagulated with rennet in fifteen to thirty minutes. The curd is 
cut and put into sacks to drain, after which it is put into molds. 

GRANULAR CURD. 

This cheese resembles the genuine Cheddar process cheese in all points excepting 
that it is not matted and milled. As soon as the curd is cooked firm enough it is salted 
and pressed. Because no acid is developed between cooking and pressing, a little 
more acid may be allowed to develop before drawing the whey, and the curd should 
be cooked firmer. 

GRAY. 

This is a sour skim-milk product of the Tyrol. When the milk is thickened the 
curd is brought to a proper firmness by light heating, and is then dipped into a cheese 
cloth, care being taken that the flocculent matter at the bottom of the kettle is thor- 
oughly mixed with the rest of the curd in order to insure an even product. The curd 
is put under a press for ten minutes, when it is broken up by hand or in a mill and 
salt and pepper are added. The curd is then pul into forms or hoops, and to insure 
the proper ripening a little well-ripened grated gray cheese is added, or bread crumbs 
30022— Bull. 105—08 4 



26 • VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

with the characteristic mold growth are mixed with the curd as it is put into the forms. 
The forms are made in various shapes and sizes and are supplied with holes to facilitate 
drainage. The cheese remains in the forms under pressure for twenty-four hours, 
and is then taken to the drying room, which has a temperature of 70° F. The length 
of time it should remain in the drying room is determined by the appearance of the 
cheese. It is then taken to the ripening cellar. The cheese when ripened has a 
pleasant taste and a gray appearance through the entire mass. 

GRUYERE. 

This name is applied to Emmental cheese manufactured in France, the name 
originating from the Swiss village of Gruyere. The cheese was -first mentioned in 
1722, when two societies were reported to have been organized for its manufacture. 
The Gruyere cheese is made in three different qualities — whole milk, partly skimmed, 
and skimmed. It is usually made from partly skimmed milk, and this is supposed 
to distinguish it from Emmental, which is supposed to be made from whole milk. 
The manufacture of Gruyere cheese is an extensive industry in France, about 50,000,- 
000 pounds having been manufactured annually the latter part of the last century. 

GUSSING. 

This is an Austrian skim-milk cheese weighing from 4 to 8 pounds. It resembles 
very much the brick cheese of the United States and is made in practically the same 
way. 

HAND. 

Hand cheese is so named because it was molded originally into its final shape by 
hand. It is a sour-milk cheese, very popular among German races, and manufactured 
in many countries. 

The process of making varies in different localities, but in general is about as follows: 
The skimmed milk is mixed with buttermilk and put into a tinned vessel where it is 
held at a favorable temperature for souring. When thick the curd is broken up by 
stirring and heated to 120° F. The cooking is continued for about three hours and 
for the first hour of this time is stirred thoroughly. After cooking the whey is drained 
off and the curd is put in a mold for cooling. It is then ground fine in a curd mill 
and salt is incorporated, and for some kinds caraway seed is added. The curd is then 
pressed into the desired shapes and sizes. The small cheeses are dried in a warm room 
and then transferred to the curing cellar, where they are kept on shelves until the 
ripening on the surface has commenced, when they are packed in boxes. The cheese 
has a very sharp, pungent odor and taste, which to most people unaccustomed to it 
are very disagreeable. 

There are many local names for hand cheeses, among which are the following: Thu- 
ringia caraway cheese; Ihlefeld, made in Mecklenburg; Livlander, made in Russia; 
Olmtitzer Bierkase; Dresdener Bierkase; Satz, made in Saxony; Tyrol sour cheese; 
Berliner Kuhkase, and Alt Kuhkase. 

HARZ. 

This is a hand cheese made in different sizes. It is 1^ to 2\ inches in diameter and 
\ to \ inch in thickness and weighs one-fourth pound. It is identical in manufacture 
with hand cheese. 

HAY. 

This cheese, known as Fromage de Foin, is a skim-milk variety made in the Depart- 
ment of Seine-Inferieure, France. The cheese derives its name from the fact that it 
is ripened on as freshly cut hay as possible, which gives a characteristic aroma to the 
cheese. The cheese in some respects resembles a poor grade of Livarot. It is about 
10 inches in diameter and 2 to 3 inches thick. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 27 

The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 80° to 85° F. In about one hour the 
curd is cut and the whey removed; the curd is then pressed to remove as much of the 
whey as possible, after which it is pressed by hand into molds. After draining for 
about two days it is put into the drying room, where it remains for about three weeks, 
when it is taken to the curing cellar and buried in hay. After remaining here for six 
weeks to three months it is ready for sale. The consumption of this variety is largely 
restricted to the region where it is made. 

HOHENHEIM, 

This is a soft cheese made in Hohenheim from partly skimmed milk. It is cylin- 
drical in shape, 4 to 6 inches in diameter, and weighs about one-half pound. 

The skimmed evening's milk is added to the morning's milk and heated in a copper 
kettle to 110° F. Some saffron is used for color and rennet is added. In one to one and 
one-half hours the curd is broken up and the whey dipped off. Caraway seed is 
stirred in, by which process the curd is reduced to smaller particles. It is then dipped 
into tin hoops having holes to allow easy draining. The curd remains in these hoops 
f< >r twelve hours and an additional twelve hours on a drying board. It is then sprinkled 
with salt and when this is dissolved it is again salted and placed in the ripening cellar. 
Ripening requires three months. 

HOLSTEIN HEALTH. 

This is a cooked cheese made from sour skimmed milk, the local name being Hol- 
steiner Gesundheits Kase. The milk is heated lightly and the curd is strongly 
pressed; it is then well mixed and put in a tin kettle. A little cream and salt are 
added and the whole is stirred while it is being heated to the melting temperature 
over a fire. It is then put into a hoop or mold which holds about one-half pound and 
is allowed to cool. 

HOLSTEIN SKIM-MILK. 

As the name indicates, this is a skim-milk cheese made in the Province of Holstein, 
where it is known as Holsteiner Magerkase. Usually in the manufacture of this 
cheese 6 percent of buttermilk is added to separator skim milk. A part is heated to 
160° F. and the remainder is mixed with the pasteurized portion. The milk is col- 
ored with saffron, and rennet powder is used for coagulating the casein, which requires 
about 35 minutes. The curd is then broken up and allowed to remain in the whey 
for thirty minutes without stirring. A cloth is then used for lifting the curd from the 
whey, and 1 per cent of salt is mixed in. The curd is pressed for one-half hour, when 
it is turned and pressure again applied. The pressure is gradually increased from 5 
pounds to 9 pounds for each pound of cheese. The cheese is transferred to the curing 
cellar, which has a temperature of 60°. It is here turned daily until ripened, which 
requires four months. Each cheese weighs from 12 to 14 pounds. 

HOP. 

Hop or Hopfen cheese is a German product. The ground curd is salted and allowed 
to ripen for three or four days, when it is mixed with fresh curd and molded into small 
cheeses measuring about 2\ inches in diameter and 1 inch in thickness. These are 
placed in a well-ventilated room and allowed to become quite dry, when they are 
packed in hops. 

HVID GJEDEOST. 

This is a goat's-milk cheese made in Norway. The milk is set at 70° F. or higher. 
The curd is broken up arid is cooked in the usual manner. It is then pressed in forms 
9 to 10 inches long, 6 inches broad, and 4 inches high. The cheese is made only for 
local consumption. 



28 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

ILHA. 

Ilha is a Portuguese word meaning island, and is applied to the cow's-milk cheeses 
made in the Azore Islands and imported quite extensively into Portugal. They are 
moderately firm cheeses measuring 10 to 12 inches in diameter and about 4 inches in 
thickness. 

INCANESTRATO. 

This name is applied to cheese made in Sicily. The mixture of evening's and 
morning's milk is curdled with rennet in about three-fourths of an hour. The curd 
is then stirred thoroughly and 2 per cent of water is added. After standing for five 
minutes the curd is separated from the whey, pressed by hand, and sometimes allowed 
to ferment for two to three days, when it is cooked in whey and then pressed and 
salted. Various spices are added. A kind known as Majocchino and made in the 
region of Messina, out of cow's, goat's, and sheep's milk, contains olive oil. 

ISIGNY. 

This is an American cheese originating about thirty years ago in attempts to make 
Camembert cheese in this country. The proper ripening for Camembert cheese was 
not secured and hence a distinct name was given to the product. The cheese is 
slightly larger than Camembert but of the same shape. The ripened product bears a 
close resemblance to Limburg. The process of manufacture is similar to that of 
Camembert. During ripening, however, the cheese is washed and rubbed occasion- 
ally to check the growth of molds on the surface. 

JOCHBERG. 

This cheese is made from a mixture of cow's and goat's milk in the Tyrol. The 
cheese weighs 45 pounds and is 20 inches in diameter and 4 inches high. 

JOSEPHINE. 

This is a soft cured rennet cheese made from whole cow's milk in Silesia. It is put 
up in small cylindrical packages. 

KAJMAK. 

The Turkish word Kajmak signifies cream and is used to designate a product made 
in Servia and sometimes known as Servian butter. This product is, however, analo- 
gous to a cream cheese. The milk is boiled and put into large shallow vessels usually 
made of wood, and allowed to stand for twelve hours, when the cream is removed and 
usually salted. The flavor varies greatly with the age of the sample and is said to be 
between that of a goat's-milk cheese and Roquefort. 

KASCAVAL. 

This is a loaf-shaped rennet cheese weighing from 4 to 6 pounds, made from sheep's 
milk in Bulgaria, Roumania, and Transylvania. Goat's milk is sometimes added. 
Considerable quantities of the cheese are exported. 

KATSCHKAWALJ. 

This is a sheep's-milk cheese made in Servia. The milk is curdled with rennet 
and the curd is drained and inclosed in tin cans which are put into boiling water. The 
curd is subsequently worked by hand and molded into various shapes. A cheese 
weighs ordinarily about 6 pounds. 

KJARSGAARD. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made in Denmark from skimmed cow's milk. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 29 

KLOSTER. 

This is a soft ripened rennet cheese made from unskimmed cow's milk. It has a 
somewhat unusual shape, 1 by 1 by 4 inches, and weighs less than one-fourth pound. 

KOLOS-MONOSTOR. 

This is a sheep's-milk rennet cheese made in the agricultural school in Transyl- 
vania. The cheese is rectangular in shape, 8J by 5 by 3 inches, and weighs 4 pounds. 

KOPPEN. 

Koppenkiise is a goat's-milk cheese made in Germany. The milk is set at 80° to 
85° F., and after the whey has been dipped off the curd is put into a cup-shaped ves- 
sel which gives form to the cheese and also the name. The cheese is placed in a warm 
room and sprinkled with salt. It is allowed to dry for from two to three days and is 
then placed in the ripening room. The ripened cheese weighs from 3 to 4 ounces. It 
has a sharp, pungent, slightly smoky flavor. 

KOSHER. 

This cheese under various names is made in several countries. It is a cow's-milk 
rennet cheese made for the Jewish trade. The process of manufacture resembles that 
of Limburg. The cheese, however, is eaten fresh. 

KOSHER GOUDA. 

This is a cheese made especially for the Jewish trade. It is identical with a Gouda 
cheese in every way except in size and in having no bladder covering. It weighs 
from 4 to 6 pounds and is 8^ inches in diameter and 3 inches thick. It bears a stamp 
which identifies it to the Jewish consumer. Small quantities are imported into this 
country. 

KRUTT. 

Krutt, or Kirgischerkase, is made by the nomadic tribes of the middle Asiatic 
Steppes from sour skim milk of the cow, goat, sheep, or camel. When the milk 
coagulates salt is added and the curd is hung up in a sack to drain, after which it is 
subjected to moderate pressure. The curd is then made up into small balls which 
are placed in the sun to dry. 

KUHBACH. 

This is a soft ripened rennet cheese made from whole or partly skimmed cow's 
milk. It is a German product, made in upper Bavaria. It is cylindrical in shape, 
weighs 2 pounds, and is 6 inches in diameter and 3 inches high. 

LAGUIOLE. 

This is a hard rennet cheese varying but little if any from Cantal and resembling 
Roquefort. It derives its name from the village of Laguiole in the Department of 
Aveyron, France. The cheese is made extensively in the mountains of Aubrac, where 
it is said to have been made at the time of the Roman occupation. The milk, either 
whole or partly skimmed, is set with rennet, the time allowed being about thirty min- 
utes. The curd is allowed to ferment for about twenty-four hours and is then put into 
hoops and pressed. At least one month is required for ripening. Laguiole or Guiole 
cheese is considered superior to Cantal, although the two varieties are made in essen- 
tially the same way. 

LANCASHIRE. 

This is an English cheese named from the county in which it is made. The even- 
ing's milk is partly skimmed and is heated so that when the morning*^ milk is added 



30 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

the temperature of the whole is brought to 80° F., or slightly higher. Enough rennet 
is added to coagulate the milk in one hour. The curd is broken up, stirred for a short 
time, and pressed on the bottom of the vat by means of a heavy sieve. The whey is 
soon drained off and the curd is ground in a curd mill into particles the size of kernels 
of corn and then put into the press. Salting is done in brine in which the cheese is 
placed for four to six days. From the brine tank the cheese is transf erred to the curing 
room. 

LANGRES. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made in the northeastern part of France. It derives its 
name from the village of Langres in the Department of Haute-Marne, where it is said 
to have been made since the time of the Merovingian kings. The perfectly fresh milk 
is set with rennet at a temperature of about 90° to 95° F. After standing for several 
hours it is put into cylindrical forms. The cheeses ripen for about two to three months. 
A ripened cheese weighs from 1| to 2 pounds and is about 5 inches in diameter and 8 
inches high. The cheese is consumed for the most part in the region where made. 

LAPLAND. 

The Laplanders make a variety of cheese from the milk of the reindeer. It resem- 
bles very much the harder varieties of the Emmental group. The cheese has a very 
unusual shape. It is round and flat and is so formed that a cross section would resem- 
ble a. dumbbell with angular instead of round ends. 

LATTICINI. 

This is applied to cheeses made from the milk of buffaloes, particularly in the region 
of Naples, but also in other parts of Italy. 

LEATHER. 

Leather, Leder, or Holstein dairy cheese is made in Sehleswig-Holstein, from 
skimmed cow's milk with an addition of from 5 to 10 per cent of buttermilk. 

The milk is set at from 95° to 100° F. and requires twenty -five to thirty-five minutes 
for coagulation. It is then broken up with a harp or a stirring stick, and is stirred with 
a Danish stirrer. When the particles are reduced to the size of peas the curd is piled 
up on one side of the vat or kettle and allowed to stand for ten minutes. The whey is 
then dipped off. The curd is cut with a knife into pieces the size of the hand, put in 
a wooden or tin bowl, and pressed for one-half hour, when it is cut into pieces and 
run through a cheese mill. It is then salted, put in a cloth, and again put in the press, 
where the pressure is gradually increased. The cheese is turned occasionally and a 
fresh dry cloth supplied. After twelve hours of pressing the cheese is put into the 
salt bath, where it is kept forty to forty-eight hours. It is then transferred to the 
ripening cellar, where it is wiped with a dry cloth every day for about a week and 
thereafter twice a week, tho ripening requiring about four months. The cured cheese 
has small eyes; it is made cylindrical, and is 4 to 6 inches in height and 10 to 12 inches 
in diameter. It weighs 15 to 25 pounds. 

LEICESTER. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made from whole cow's milk. It is named from a 
county in England where it is made. It resembles the better known Cheshire and 
Cheddar in every way. 

Evening's and morning's milk are mixed and set at a temperature of from 76° to 
84° F. The curd is allowed to set very firm, which requires ninety minutes. It is 
cut very carefully and allowed to settle twenty minutes, when the whey is drawn off. 
The curd is then gathered in a cloth, pressed, and broken up several times until a 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 31 

certain degree of dryness has .been attained, and then sailed lightly and put to press. 
Pressure is continued for five days, the cheese being removed and salted on the out- 
side each day. 

LEYDEN. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made in Holland, where it is known also as Bergues, 
Delft, Komynde, Koejekaars, and Hobbe. The milk, which is either partly or 
entirely skimmed, is set with rennet at 72° to 75° F. It is allowed to stand for one 
hour, when the curd is cut and then stirred while being warmed up to 97°. The heat- 
ing is done by pouring hot whey over the curd. The curd is then dipped out with a 
cloth and kneaded by hand. Caraway seed is added to a portion of the curd which, 
in filling the hoops, constitutes the middle of three layers. The cheese is then put in 
press. It is turned after three hours and a fresh cloth applied. The pressing con- 
tinues for twenty-four hours. Salting is done on the surface daily. If the rind be- 
comes hard it is washed in whey or water, and occasionally milk is smeared on the 
surface. The surface is colored with litmus in alkaline water. A ripened cheese 
weighs about 25 pounds and is 12 inches in diameter and 3J to 5 inches in thickness. 
As seen on the American market it has a very dark-brown surface. 

LIMBURG. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk which may contain all of the fat 
or be partly or entirely skimmed. The best Limburg is undoubtedly made from 
whole milk. This cheese has a very strong and characteristic odor and taste. The 
cheese is about 6 by 6 by 3 inches and weighs about 2 pounds. 

The most common synonyms of Limburg are Backstein and Herve. There are, 
however, many local names for this kind of cheese, such as Algau, Lanark, Marianhof , 
Morin, St. Michels, Schutzen, Tanzenberg, Carinthian, Grottenhof, Emmersdorf, 
Briol, and Lindenhof. 

Limburg cheese originated in the province of Liittich, Belgium, in the neighbor- 
hood of Herve, and was marketed in Limburg, Belgium. Its manufacture has spread 
to Germany and Austria, where it is very popular, and to the United States, where 
large quantities are made, mostly in New York and Wisconsin. 

Sweet milk is set without any coloring matter at a temperature of from 91° to 96° 
F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate the milk in about forty minutes. In foreign 
countries a kettle is used but in the United States an ordinary rectangular cheese vat 
is found to be more satisfactory. The curd is cut or broken into pieces about one- 
third-inch cube and is stirred for a short time without additional heating. It is then 
dipped into rectangular forms, 28 inches long, b\ inches broad, and about 8 inches 
deep. These forms are kept on a draining board where the whey drains out freely. 
When the cheese has been in the forms with frequent turnings for a sufficient length 
of time to retain its shape it is removed to the salting table, where the surface is rubbed 
with salt daily. When the surface of the cheese commences to get slippery, the 
cheese is put in a ripening cellar having a temperature of about 60°. While in the 
cellar the surface of each cheese is rubbed thoroughly at frequent intervals. Ripen- 
ing requires one to two months. When ripe the cheese is wrapped in paper, and then 
in tin foil, and put in boxes each containing about 50 cheeses. 

No Limburg is imported into this country at the present time, contrary to the 
popular belief. The type of cheese is made so cheaply and of such good quality in 
this country that the foreign make has been crowded out of the market. 

LIPTAU. 

This cheese is made in the Provinces of Liptau, Saros, and Arva, in Austria, from 
sheep's milk. Condiments, especially red pepper, are usually added. It is rather 
greasy and has a sharp taste. The details of manufacture are the same as for Brinsen 
cheese. 



32 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

LIVAROT. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk more or less skimmed. It derives 
its name from the village of Livarot in the Department of Calvados, France, where the 
industry is centralized. This cheese has the advantage over Camembert made in the 
same region in that it may be manufactured and consumed during the warm months. 

The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 95° to 104° F. After one and one-half 
to two hours the curd is cut and placed on a rush mat or a cloth and allowed to drain 
for about fifteen minutes, during which time it is crumbled as finely as possible. It is 
then put into tin hoops or forms 6 inches in diameter and the same in height. The 
cheeses are turned very frequently until they become firm , when they are salted and 
left on the draining board for four or five days. At this stage they are sometimes sold 
as white cheese, but more often they are transferred to a well -ventilated room for 
fifteen to twenty days and then to the curing cellar, which is kept very tightly closed. 
By thus retaining the ammonia and other products the cheese acquires a strong, 
piquant taste. During ripening the cheeses are turned two or three times a week 
and occasionally wiped with a cloth moistened with salt water. After ripening for 
ten to twelve days they are wrapped with the leaves of Typha latifolia, commonly 
called laiche. In three to five months they are colored with annatto and marketed. 

LORRAINE. 

This is a small sour-milk hand cheese made in Lorraine, Germany, and regarded 
as a delicacy in that country. It is seasoned with pepper, salt, and pistachio nuts, 
and is eaten in a comparatively fresh state. The cheeses are made in sizes of about 2 
ounces and sell for a very high price — at the rate of about 50 cents a pound. 

LUNEBERG. 

This cheese is made in the small valleys of the Voralberg Mountains in the western 
part of Austria. The art of cheese making in this locality was imported from Switzer- 
land, and the copper kettle and characteristic presses are used. Saffron is used for 
coloring, and the milk is warmed in the copper kettle to 87° to 90° F., at which tem- 
perature the rennet is added, enough being used to coagulate the milk in twenty to 
thirty minutes. The curd is cut into pieces the size of hazelnuts and is cooked with 
stirring to a temperature of 122°. The curd is dipped into cloths which are put into 
wooden forms and light pressure is applied. The curd remains in the press for twenty- 
four hours, during which time it is turned occasionally and a dry cloth supplied. The 
cheese is then taken to the cellar and is salted on the surface. In the cellar it is rubbed 
and washed occasionally. When ripe it is said to be about midway in type between 
Emmental and Limburg. 

MACONNAIS. 

This is a French goat's-milk cheese, 2 inches square by 1£ inches thick. 

MACQUELINE. 

This is a soft rennet cheese of the Camembert type, 4 inches in diameter and 1J 
inches thick, made from whole or partly skimmed milk in the region of Senlis, in the 
Department of Oise, France. The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 
80° F. and allowed to stand for five hours, when the curd is put into hoops. After 
twenty-four hours the hoops are removed and the cheese is salted and taken to the 
curing room, where it remains for twenty days or more. A cheese weighs about one- 
fourth of a pound and requires about 2 liters of milk in its manufacture. The cheese 
sells at a lower price than Camembert, made in the same region. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 33 

MAIKASE. 

This is a cheese resembling Gouda. It is made in Holland in the early summer, is 
softer than the regular Gouda, and hence can be marketed at an earlier period. 

MAINZ HAND. 

This is a typical hand cheese sometimes called Pimp. The milk is treated in the 
usual way, and the curd after cooling is thoroughly kneaded by hand, the thoroughness 
of this manipulation influencing the quality of the cheese. The curd is then pressed 
by hand into flat cakes and allowed to dry for a week. They are then packed in a jar 
or keg and placed in a cellar for ripening. This requires from six to eight weeks. 

MALAKOFF. 

This is another form of Neufchatel cheese about 2 inches in diameter and one-half 
of an inch in thickness. It may be consumed either while fresh or after ripening. 

MANUR. 

This cheese is made in Servia from either sheep's or cow's milk. The milk is first 
heated to the boiling temperature and then cooled until the fingers can be held in it. 
A mixture of buttermilk and fresh whey with rennet is added. The curd is lifted 
from the whey in a cloth and allowed to drain, when it is kneaded like bread, lightly 
salted, and dried. 

MAQUEE. 

This is a soft rennet brick-shaped cheese made from cow's milk in Belgium. It 
is known where made as Fromage Mou. 

MARKISCH HAND. 

This cheese is similar to a hand cheese. The milk is treated in the same way as 
in hand cheese up to the salting. The curd is then put in a linen sack and heavy 
pressure is applied. The mass is then cut into oblong pieces and allowed to dry and 
cure as regular hand cheese. 

MAROILLES. 

This is a soft rennet cheese of the Pont l'Eveque type made from whole or partly 
skimmed cow's milk in the Departments of Aisne and Nord, France. There are 
several kinds varying in size, shape, and details of manufacture, of which the Tuile 
de Flandre and Larron are best known. The cheese as made at Maroilles is about 6 
inches square and 2 inches thick; that made at Saint Aubin 5 inches square and 3 
inches thick. The Larron is about 2\ inches square and \\ inches thick, and weighs 
about 6 ounces. The Tuile de Flandre is about twice as large. The Dauphin is 
semilunar in shape and contains herbs. A pear-shaped form designated Boulette 
may be made in part from buttermilk. 

The best cheese is made from fresh whole milk, although the most of it is made 
from milk partly or entirely skimmed. The temperature of setting with rennet is 
about 75° F. and the time allowed from one to four hours. The curd is drained for 
one to two hours in a box having a perforated bottom, and is then put into square 
forms or hoops 5 to 6 inches on a side and 3 to 4 inches high. The cheese is turned 
frequently until firm and then salted on all six faces and taken to the curing cellar 
where it is washed frequently with salt water to prevent the growth of molds. Ripen- 
ing requires three to five months. Defective cheeses are said to be common. 

30022— P. all. 1 ( 15—08 5 



34 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

MASCARPONE. 

This is an Italian cream cheese about 2 inches in diameter and 2\ inches in height. 
The cream is heated to about 194° F. and dilute acetic or tartaric acid is added. The 
mixture is stirred and drained through cloth and then put into molds. It is eaten in 
a fresh condition. 

MECKLENBURG SKIM. 

This is a rennet cheese made from skim milk and named from the province in 
which it is made. The milk is placed in a copper kettle and warmed with steam. 
Saffron is added for coloring and sufficient rennet is used to coagulate the milk in 30 
minutes. The curd is broken up into particles the size of peas. The temperature is 
raised to 92° F. in 12 minutes. The curd is then removed from the kettle by means 
of a cloth and put into a hoop and pressure applied. This is increased gradually 
until it reaches fifteen times the weight of the cheese in twenty-four hours. The 
cheese is then placed in a drying room held at 70° until a rind is formed. As much 
salt is then sprinkled on the surface as can be absorbed. In the meanwhile the cheese 
is taken from the drying room and placed in the regular curing room, which has a 
temperature of 60° and a relative humidity of 85 to 95 per cent. 

MIGNOT. 

This is a soft rennet cheese either cylindrical or cubical in form. It has been 
made in the Department of Calvados, France, for over one hundred years and resembles 
Pont l'Eveque and Livarot. There are two types of this cheese, designated white 
and passe; the first, a fresh cheese, is made during the period from April to September, 
and the second, a ripened cheese, is made during the remainder of the year. 

MONTASIO. 

This cheese originated in the part of Carinthia, in Austria, called Friaul, where the 
annual product is now valued at $600,000. At the present time it is made not only 
in Carinthia, but in the neighboring provinces and in Italy. 

The milk, either whole or partly skimmed, and consisting usually of a mixture of 
cow's and goat's milk, is heated in a kettle to 95° F. and sufficient rennet is added to 
coagulate it in thirty to forty minutes. It is then cut very carefully to the size of peas 
and heated gradually to a temperature of 120°. When the desired temperature is 
reached, which is usually in about one-half hour, heating is stopped and the stirring 
continued for thirty to forty minutes. Some of the whey is dipped from the kettle 
and the curd is removed by means of a cloth. The cheese is pressed for twenty-four 
hours, during which time it is turned frequently. The salting requires usually about 
one month, the total amount applied varying from 2\ to 3 per cent of the weight of the 
pressed cheese. After salting, the cheese is taken to a well-ventilated room and 
allowed to dry. In this room the cheese is turned frequently and rubbed in order to 
free it from molds. When dry it is scraped carefully and taken to the curing cellar. 
The cheese is here rubbed frequently with a coarse cloth, and when the rind has 
become firm and does not show the presence of mold, olive oil is usually applied. 
Sometimes the rind is colored black by means of soot. 

The fresh cheese is almost white. The old cheese becomes yellow, granular, and 
has a sharp taste and characteristic odor. It is usually eaten when three to twelve 
months of age, but may be kept much longer and then grated. 

MONTAVONER. 

This is a sour-milk cheese made in Austria. During the process of manufacture 
dried herbs (Achillea moschata and A. atrata) are added. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 35 

MONT CENIS. 

This is a hard rennet cheese resembling the imitation Roquefort varieties like Gex 
and Septmoncel an<l made in the region of Mont Cenie, in the southeastern part of 
France. The milk vised is usually a mixture of cow's, sheep's, and goat's. The 
evening's milk is usually skimmed and added to that of the morning. Primitive 
methods of cheese making are employed. The milk is set with rennet at a tempera- 
ture of about 85° F. The curd is then cut and allowed to drain for twenty-four hours, 
when fresh curd is thoroughly mixed with it. The mixture is then put into molds and 
moderate pressure applied. After turning frequently for several days and salting it 
is transferred to the curing cellar, where it is turned frequently, washed with salt 
water to check the growth of molds on the surface, and allowed to ripen for three to 
four months. The ripening is due mainly to a penicillium which is sometimes incor- 
porated in the curd by means of moldy bread. A ripened cheese is about 18 inches in 
diameter, 6 to 8 inches in height, and weighs about 25 pounds. 

MONT D'OR. 

This is a soft rennet cheese of the Pont l'Eveque type formerly made from goat's 
milk but now made almost exclusively from cow's milk. Sometimes a small amount 
of goat's milk is added to the cow's milk. 

It derives its name from Mont d'Or, near Lyons, in the Department of Rhone, France, 
where it is said to have been made for over three centuries. At the present time it is 
made not only in Rhone and neighboring Departments but in the other parts of France, 
especially Eure and Oise. 

Whole or partly skimmed milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 90° to 100° F. 
The curd, in from one-half hour to two hours after the addition of the rennet to the 
milk and with or without cutting, is put into circular forms or hoops about 4J inches 
in diameter and 3 inches high. These rest upon a draining board covered with straw. 
After about one hour the cheese is turned, and frequently thereafter until firm. A 
disk with a light weight is sometimes placed upon each cheese in order to hasten the 
removal of the whey. The cheese is salted on the surface. Much of it is sold in a 
fresh condition. It is also ripened for about one week in summer and two to three 
weeks in winter, during which time it is turned frequently and washed with salt water 
to prevent the growth of molds. 

MONTHLERY. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk in Seine-et-Oise, France. A 
large cheese is about 2 inches thick and 14 inches in diameter and weighs about 5£ 
pounds. There is also a smaller sized cheese which weighs about 3 pounds. Either 
whole milk or partly skimmed milk is used. Rennet is added to the milk at ordinary 
temperatures, and the curd when sufficiently firm is broken up, put into molds, and 
subjected to pressure. After salting the cheese is cured for eight to fifteen days in a 
so-called drying room and then ripened in a cellar at a temperature of about 55° F. 
During ripening the cheese becomes covered at first with a whitish mold and later 
with a blue mold in which red spots appear. It is ready for sale at the end of about 
one month. 

MOZARINELLI. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk in Italy. 

MONSTER. 

Miinster is a rennet cheese made from unskimmed cow's milk in the western part of 
Germany, near the Vosges Mountains, and named from the city of Miinster, near which 
it is made. Similar cheefte made in the neighboring portion of France is called G6- 
rome, and Miinster cheese made near Colmar and Strassburg is sometimes given the 
names of these two cities. 



36 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

The milk is set at about 90° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in thirty minutes. 
The curd is then broken up and allowed to stand for thirty to forty-five minutes with- 
out stirring, when it is dipped with a sieve which holds back the small particles of 
curd and gives a slight pressure to the curd. After removing the whey the curd is 
scooped into forms or hoops and caraway or anise seed is usually added. The hoops 
are made in two parts, the lower of which is 4 inches high and 7 inches in diameter 
with holes in the bottom for draining, and the upper of which is of the same dimen- 
sions. The whole resembles an ordinary cheese hoop with bandages. The hoop is 
lined with cheese cloth. After the curd has- been in the hoop for twelve hours the 
upper part of the hoop can be removed. The cheese is turned and the cloth removed. 
The cheese is now put in the upper portion of the hoop and turned frequently for four 
to six days. The temperature is held in the meanwhile at 68°. After salt has been 
rubbed on the surface daily for three days the cheese is taken to the cellar, which has 
a temperature of 51° to 55°, where it is allowed to ripen for two to three months. The 
cheese sells for about 15 cents a pound when ripe. 

MYSOST. 

Mysost is made from whey and is a product of Norway, Sweden, and Denmark, and 
to a very limited extent of the United States. It has a light-brown color, a buttery 
consistency, and a mild, sweetish taste. 

The method of manufacture is as follows: As soon as the curd of the regular cheese is 
removed from the whey, the whey is strained and is put in a kettle or large pan over 
the fire and the albuminous material which rises to the surface is skimmed off. The 
whey is evaporated as rapidly as possible with constant and thorough stirring. When 
it has reached about one-fourth its original volume the albumin previously skimmed 
off is returned and stirred thoroughly to break up all possible lumps. When the whey 
has attained the consistency of thickened milk it is poured quickly into a wooden 
trough and stirred with a paddle until cool to prevent the formation of sugar crystals. 
This can then be molded into the desired form. In this country it is usually made 
into cylindrical shapes and wrapped in tin foil. 

NIEHEIM. 

This is a sour-milk cheese made in Westphalia and named from a city in that prov- 
ince. The sour milk is heated to a temperature of 100° to 120° F. The curd is collected 
in a cloth and allowed to stand for twenty-four hours, when it is worked until in a 
fine condition. The curd is made up into cakes which are put into a cellar and turned 
frequently for five to eight days. It is then broken up, and salt and caraway seed, 
and sometimes beer or milk, are added. The cheese is covered lightly with straw and 
finally packed in casks with hops and allowed to ripen. 

NESSEL. 

This is a soft-cured renne^ cheese made from unskimmed cow's milk. It is an Eng- 
lish product and is made round and very thin. 

NEUFCHATEL. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made extensively in the Department of Seine-Inferieure, 
France, from cow's milk either whole or skimmed. Bondon, Malakoff, Petit Carre, 
and Petit Suisse are essentially the same as Neufchatel, but have slightly different 
shapes. 

The milk, preferably fresh, is set at 85° F. with only so much rennet as is necessary 
to secure the desired coagulation in twenty-four hours in summer and from thirty-six 
to forty-eight hours in winter. The curd is then inclosed in cheese cloth and drained 
for twelve hours, after which it is subjected to pressure for another period of twelve 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 3*7 

hours. It is then thoroughly kneaded by hand, or in the larger factories by means of a 
curd mill, and pressed into tin cylinders about 2 inches in diameter and 3 inches high. 
The cheeses are removed soon from the molds, salted, and replaced. After draining 
for twenty-four hours they are transferred to the so-called drying room, where they 
become covered with white and later with blue molds. They are then taken to the 
curing cellar, where the ripening process is continued for three to four weeks. The 
appearance of red spots on the surface is taken as an indication that the ripening has 
progressed far enough. The cheeses are then wrapped in tin foil and marketed. " 

NEW MILK. 

This cheese is made in Holland. The process of manufacture resembles that of 
Gouda cheese. It is made only in limited quantities at the beginning of the summer 
season and is eaten fresh. 

NOSTRALE. 

This name is applied locally to two kinds of rennet cheese made from cow's milk in 
the mountainous regions of northwestern Italy. The hard cheese, designated For- 
maggio Duro, is made during the spring while the herds are still in the valleys, and the 
soft cheese, Formaggio Tenero, during the summer when they are pastured in the 
mountains. The cheese is said to be a very old variety and the methods of manufac- 
ture to have remained primitive. A cheese designated Raschera made in the region 
of Mondovi is probably the same as Nostrale. 

OLIVET. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk. The manufacture of this variety 
originated south of Orleans, in the Department of Loiret, France. The industry is 
now carried on north of Orleans near Olivet, to which place the cheese doubtless owes 
its name. There are three forms of this cheese, designated white or summer cheese, 
blue or the ordinary half-ripened form, and ripened. In general the process of manu- 
facture resembles that of Camembert. The ordinary form is made from either whole 
milk or partly skimmed milk. About two hours after the addition of rennet the curd 
is placed in a receptacle having holes in the bottom and sides and allowed to drain for 
twenty-four hours, when it is put into forms about 6 inches in diameter. The cheese 
is turned and salted the next day and about one day later is taken to the first curing 
room, where it is placed on shelves covered with straw. This room is kept at a tem- 
perature of about 65° F. Here the cheese becomes red in a few days and later blue. 
The blue color is a sign of maturity, and its appearance requires from ten to fifteen 
days in summer and one month in winter. The cheese is then ready for marketing. 
When properly cared for it may remain in good condition for several months. The 
form designated ripened is made in the same way until the blue color appears, when 
the cheese is put into the curing cellar where ripening is carried to a much further 
extent. Ordinarily this requires from fifteen to thirty days, but the cheese is here 
sometimes covered with ashes, which are believed to hasten the ripening process. 
The form designated white or summer cheese is made from whole milk to which cream 
is sometimes added. The curd is obtained in the ordinary manner and pressed into 
molds in which it is sold as fresh cheese, summer cheese, white cheese, or cream cheese. 

OLMUTZER QUARGEL. 

This is a hand cheese made extensively in the western part of Austria. It is 1§ 
inches in diameter and one-third of an inch thick and contains caraway seed. It 
is made with 5 per cent of salt and after drying is put in salt whey for a time. It is 
then packed in kegs and ripened for eight to ten weeks. In all other respects the 
manufacture is identical with that of hand cheese. 



38 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 



PAGLIA. 



This is a more or less successful imitation of Gorgonzola cheese, made in the Canton 
of Ticino, Switzerland. A cheese is 8 inches in diameter and 2 inches in thickness. 
The milk is set at a temperature of 100° F. , the time allowed being about fifteen minutes. 
The curd is broken up, stirred, and put into hoops. When sufficiently drained the 
cheese is taken to a cool cellar and placed on straw, where fermentation is usually- 
very rapid and marked. The process is delayed to some extent by excessive salting, 
which is continued for about one month. The cheese is very soft in consistency and 
has a pleasant aromatic flavor. 

PAGO. 

This is a rennet cheese made from sheep's milk in the Island of Pago, in the Province 
of Dalmatia, Austria. It is put up in sizes weighing from one-half to 8 pounds. 

PARMESAN. 

This name is in common use outside of Italy for the cheese made and known in 
that country for centuries as Grana, the term grana or granona referring to the granular 
appearance of the cheese when broken, as is necessary on account of the hardness of 
the cheese, which makes cutting practically impossible. There are two quite distinct 
kinds of this cheese, one made in Lombardy and the other in Emilia, the centers of 
production being separated by the River Po. Parma, situated in Emilia, has long 
been an important commercial center for both kinds, and to this fact the name Par- 
mesan is due. The use of the term Parmesan, however, is sometimes restricted to 
the cheese made in Lombardy, the term Reggian being used to designate that made 
in Emilia. Italian writers refer usually to the Lombardy cheese as Cacio or Formaggio 
Grana Lodigiano, Lodi being an important center of trade, and to the Emilian cheese 
as Grana Parmigiano or Reggiano. The Lodi cheese is larger and made from a poorer 
quality of milk than the Reggian. The latter is colored and brings a much higher 
price. The following description of the process of manufacture applies equally well 
to both kinds. 

The milk which has been skimmed to a greater or less extent is heated in copper 
kettles to a temperature. varying according to the acidity of the milk from 90° to 100° F. 
The kettle is then removed from the fire, rennet added, and the kettle covered and 
allowed to stand for twenty minutes to one hour, when the curd is cut very fine and 
cooked, with stirring, to 115° to 125° for fifteen to forty-five minutes. The curd is 
removed from the kettle by means of a cloth and after draining for a short time is put 
into hoops. These are about 10 inches high and 18 inches or more in diameter and 
are lined with coarse cloth before filling. Pressure is then applied for twenty-four 
hours, the cheese being turned frequently and the cloths changed. The salting, 
which is begun in one to three days after removing from the press, is continued for 
a considerable length of time, often forty days. The cheeses are then transferred to 
a cool, well-ventilatod room, where they may be stored for years, the surface being 
rubbed with oil from time to lime. The exterior of the cheese is dark green or black, 
due to coloring matter rubbed on the surface. A greenish color in the interior has 
been attributed to the contamination with copper from the vessels in which the milk 
is allowed to stand before skimming. 

The Lombardy cheese made from April to September is known locally as Sorte 
Maggenga and that from October to March as Sorte Vermenga. The Reggian cheese 
is made only in summer. 

Parmesan cheese when well made may be broken and grated easily and may be 
kept for an indefinite number of years. It is grated and used largely for soups and 
with macaroni. A considerable quantity of this cheese is imported into this country 
and sells for a very high price. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 39 

PECORINO. 

The Formaggio Pecorini are the sheep's-milk cheeses made in Italy and of which 
there are numerous more or less clearly defined kinds. The most common cheese of 
this sort is the one designated Cacio Pecorino Romano, or merely Romano. This 
varies considerably in size and shape. The weight may range from 2 to 25 pounds. 
A cheese of ordinary size is about 10 inches in diameter and 6 inches in thickness. 
The interior is slightly greenish in color, somewhat granular, and devoid of eyes or 
holes. In making Romano cheese the milk is heated to 100° F. and coagulated by 
rennet in fifteen minutes. The curd is cut, cooked to 120°, stirred, and put into 
forms and allowed to drain. Salting is done both by immersion in brine and by 
rubbing salt on the surface. As much as 7 to 8 per cent of salt is usually incorporated 
in the course of one month. This process is sometimes facilitated by punching several 
holes in the cheese. Ripening is usually done at a temperature of 60° to 70° and 
requires eight months or longer. 

The Pecorino Dolce is artificially colored with annatto and subjected to considerable 
pressure in the process of manufacture. 

Pecorino Tuscano is a smaller cheese tnan the Romano, measuring usually (i inches 
in diameter and 2 to 4 inches in thickness and weighing 2 to 5 pounds. 

Among the sheep's-milk cheeses bearing local names are the following: Ancona, 
Cotrone, Iglesias, Leonessa, Puglia, and Viterbo. In the manufacture of Viterbo 
cheese the milk is curdled by means of a wild artichoke, Cynara scolymus. 

PFISTER. 

This cheese is classed in the Emmental group though its method of manufacture 
differs materially. It is made from fresh skimmed cow's milk. It takes its na,me 
from Pfister Huber, in Cham, Switzerland, who evidently was the first to manufac- 
ture it. 

The milk is set at 85° F. with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in thirty minutes. The 
curd is cut coarse and allowed to stand for fifteen minutes when the whey is dipped off. 
The curd is again stirred for five minutes, care being taken that the temperature does 
not fall below the setting point. The curd is again allowed to stand for five minutes 
when it is taken from the kettle in a cloth and put in a hoop, where it is pressed for 
twenty-four hours, being turned occasionally and dry cloths substituted. The cheese 
is transferred from the press to the salt bath where it remains for three days. It is 
then taken to a moist room having a temperature of 85°. Here it is placed on shelves 
and turned and salted occasionally. The cheese is ready for market at about 6 weeks 
of age. It is drum-shaped, like a characteristic Emmental, but not so large, weighing 
about 50 pounds. 

PHILADELPHIA CREAM. 

This is an ordinary cream cheese put up by a firm in New York State. It is 3 by 2\ 
by \\ inches in size and is wrapped in parchment paper and tin foil. 

PINEAPPLE. 

This cheese, which is said to have had its origin in Litchfield County, Conn., about 
1845, is so named from the fruit of that name which the cheese is made to resemble in 
shape. It is a hard rennet cheese made from whole cow's milk. The cheese is quite 
hard and is rather highly colored. The early process of manufacture is the same as 
with Cheddar, except that it is cooked much harder. The curd is pressed in the 
desired shape in various sizes up to 6 pounds in weight. After pressing, the cheese 
is dipped for a few minutes in water at 120° F. and is then put in a net for twenty- 
four hours, which gives it the diamond-shaped corrugations on the surface. It requires 
several months to ripen and during tins time the surface is rubbed with oil, which 
makes it very smooth and hard. 



40 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

PONT L'EVEQUE. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from cow's milk. Three grades are recognized, 
depending upon the quality of the milk used. A Pont l'Eveque cheese is about A\ 
inches square and 1^ inches thick. 

This cheese was made in the thirteenth century in the valley of Auge. from which 
it derived its earlier name Augelot, and by corruption Angelot. The principal seat 
of the industry at the present time is Pont l'Eveque and vicinity, in the Department 
of Calvados, France. The manufacture of this cheese is of considerable importance 
in the region designated. The milk used may be either whole milk with or without 
the addition of cream, a mixture of whole and skimmed milk, or milk entirely skimmed. 

Coloring matter and warm or hot water are usually added to the milk before setting 
with rennet, which is done at a temperature of about 95° F. After standing for fifteen 
to thirty minutes the curd is cut, removed to a draining board for a few minutes, and 
then put into square forms or hoops. The cheese is turned very frequently during 
the first half hour and five or six times more during the remainder of the first day. 
It is sailed the second or third day and transferred to a well-ventilated room for several 
days. When sufficiently dried it is taken to the curing cellar. During drying and 
ripening the cheeses are turned every other day and while in the cellar are washed 
frequently with salt water. Ripening requires usually from three to six weeks. 

PORT DU SALUT. 

This is a rennet cheese made from cow's milk. In many respects it is intermediate 
between the soft and hard varieties. The rind is firm and resistant but the interior is 
soft and homogeneous, though it does not become semiliquid like the interior of Brie 
cheese. This variety of cheese originated about 1865 in the Trappist Abbey, Port du 
Salut, situated about 6 miles from Laval, in the Department of Mayenne, France. 
While the process is to some extent kept a secret by the Trappists, very successful 
imitations are made outside of the monasteries in this region. 

The milk, either whole or partly skimmed and preferably slightly acid, is heated to 
90° to 95° F. and sufficient rennet added in order to secure the desired firmness of the 
curd in about thirty minutes. Coloring matter is usually added to the milk. The curd 
is cut very fine and in a manner similar to that followed in making Emmental cheese. 
This requires about twenty minutes. A part of the whey may then be removed. The 
curd is then stirred and may be heated or cooked to a moderate degree. The final tem- 
perature reached in cooking varies from 100° to 105°, depending upon the acidity of the 
milk. The time required in stirring and heating is about twenty minutes. The curd 
is then allowed to settle and the whey removed. After being stirred vigorously for two 
to four minutes, the curd is put into molds which are of two sizes, the smaller about 
7 inches in diameter and the larger about 10 inches. A disk is placed on the cheese and 
pressure applied by means of presses for ten to twelve hours, the cheese being turned 
and the cloths frequently changed during this time. The next day the hoops are 
removed and the cheese salted. After drying for about twenty-four hours, it is trans- 
ferred to the ripening cellar where it remains from five to six weeks. In this place a 
temperature of about 55° and a relative humidity of 85° to 90° is preferred. During 
ripening the cheeses are turned very frequently and washed with salt water, the fre- 
quency depending somewhat ' upon the rapidity with which molds develop. The 
cheese is often sold before the ripening process is entirely complete. 

POTATO. 

This cheese is made in Thuringia in the central part of Germany. In the manufac- 
ture of potato cheese, curd is made from sour cow's milk, or in some cases from renneted 
milk. Sometimes sheep's or goat's milk is used. The potatoes are boiled and grated 
or mashed. One part of the potatoes is thoroughly mixed or kneaded with two or three 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 41 

parts of the curd. In the better cheese three parts of potatoes is mixed with two parts 
of curd. During the mixing, salt is added and sometimes caraway seed. The cheese is 
allowed to stand for two to four days while a fermentation takes place. After this the 
curd is again thoroughly kneaded and placed in forms for a day. It is then dried and 
is sometimes covered with beer or cream. It is finally placed in tubs and allowed to 
ripen for fourteen days. 

POTTED. 

This domestic cheese is usually prepared from well-ripened Cheddar cheese by grind- 
ing the cheese very fine and incorporating with it butter, condiments, spirits, etc. It 
is put up in small porcelain jars and is much in demand. 

PRATTIGAU. 

This is made from skimmed cow's milk and is so named from the valley of Switzer- 
land in which it is made. Its manufacture is the same as that of Limburg. Cheeses 
weigh from 20 to 25 pounds. 

PRESTOST. 

Prestost is a product of Sweden, where it is often called Saaland Pfarr. It is a rennet 
cheese made from fresh cow's milk and resembles Gouda. It was known in the eight- 
eenth century. The milk is set at 90° F. and is allowed to become very firm, when it is 
cut coarse with a wooden knife and poured into a sieve which allows the whey to drain 
off. The curd is then put into a cloth and kneaded. Whisky is mixed with the curd, 
which is then packed in a basket, and after some salt is sprinkled on the surface it is 
put in the cellar. The cloth inclosing the cheese is changed daily for three days, after 
which the cheese is washed with whisky. A cheese is cylindrical in shape and weighs 
5 to 30 pounds. 

PROVIDENCE. 

This cheese is about 8 inches in diameter and 1| inches thick, and very closely resem- 
bles Port du Salut. It is made in the monastery of Bricquebec in the Department of 
Manche, France. 

PROVOLE. 

This is one of the most esteemed of the several kinds of hard rennet cheese made in 
central and southern Italy from cow's milk, including also that of buffaloes. The 
cheese is round or oval and weighs from 4 to 6 pounds. Smaller sizes weighing about 
2 pounds are known as Provoloni. In many respects, including the cooking of the 
curd with hot water and the smoking of the cheese, Provole and Provoloni resemble 
Caciocavallo. Considerable amounts of this cheese are imported into the United States. 

PULTOST. 

Pultost, also called Knaost, is made usually from sour milk but it may be made with 
rennet. It is a Norwegian product and is made in private dairies in the mountains of 
that country. The milk is placed in a kettle and if not sour enough to coagulate on 
warming the acidity is increased by the addition of buttermilk. When sufficient acid 
has developed the milk is warmed to 113° F. The curd is broken up with a scoop and 
stirred to keep it from matting together while it is being heated to 140°. It is then 
dipped and ground up fine. Buttermilk is added and the whole is thoroughly kneaded 
and put into troughs, where it is covered with a cloth. It is allowed to stand for three 
days with occasional stirring. 

QUESO DE CINCHO. 

This is a sour-milk cheese made in Venezuela and known also as Queso de Palma 
Metida. It is exported in the form of balls 8 to 16 inches in diameter and wrapped in 
palm leaves. 



42 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

QUESO DE HOJA. 

This is a Porto Rican cheese made from fresh cow's milk. The curd is cut into blocks 
about 6 inches square and 2 inches thick. After part of the whey is drained off, which 
may require several hours, the pieces of curd are immersed in water or whey having 
a temperature of 150° F. This gives a tough layer to the block of curd, which is then 
removed to a table and pressed or stretched by the use of a broad. wooden spoon or 
paddle. Salt is sprinkled on the surface and the piece of curd is folded and wrapped 
in a cloth and squeezed to force out the moisture. The finished product is about 6 
inches in diameter, 1 to 2 inches thick, and has slightly rounded top and bottom sur- 
faces. When the cheese is cut it appears to be in layers like leaves upon one another, 
hence the name, signifying leaf cheese. 

QUESO DE MANO. 

This is a sour-milk cheese resembling a hand cheese, and is made in Venezuela. 
It is 6 to 7 inches in diameter. 

QUESO DE PRENSA. 

This is a Porto Rican product, and is a hard rennet cheese made from unskimmed 
cow's milk. The milk is allowed to stand six hours without cooling and rennet is then 
added. The curd is broken by hand or with a stick, and after part of the whey is 
separated the curd is transferred to a table and is broken into small pieces. It is then 
put in wooden frames, and salt is added either as the curd goes into the frame or by 
sprinkling on top. Light pressure is applied, either by hand or by means of a screw. 
After leaving the press the cheese is placed on racks. It may be eaten fresh or allowed 
to stand for two to three months. The cheeses are 11 inches long, 5J inches wide, and 
3 inches thick, and weigh about 5 pounds. The name signifies pressed cheese. 

QUESO DE PUNA. 

This is a Porto Rican product, resembling very much the Cottage or Dutch cheese 
of the United States. The milk is set with rennet and the curd is thoroughly mashed 
or kneaded by hand, salt being added at the same time. The curd is put in a hoop 5 
inches in diameter and 1^ inches deep, where it remains without pressure for two or 
three days, or until it will keep its form. The cheese is eaten fresh. 

RABACAL. 

This is a round, rather firm cheese made from the milk of sheep and goats in the 
vicinity of Coimbra, Portugal. A cheese is 4 to 5 inches in diameter and 1 inch thick. 

RADEN. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made from skim milk in Mecklenburg. The cheeses 
are 16 inches in diameter and 4 inches thick, and weigh 32 pounds. The process of 
manufacture does not differ materially from that of Emmental. 

RANGIPORT. 

This cheese is in every way analogous to Port du Salut. It is about 6 inches in 
diameter and 2\ inches thick and weighs about 2\ pounds. It is made in the Depart- 
ment of Seine-et-Oise, France. 

RAYON. 

This is a special type of Emmental cheese made largely in the Canton of Fribourg, 
Switzerland, for exportation to Italy, though some is now manufactured in Italy. 
It is made of partly skimmed milk, and the cooking is continued to a point that insures 
a very dry hard cheese which develops no eyes. After curing it is shipped largely 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 43 

to Turin, where it is placed on edge on shelves in a dry, warm cave, and the fat leaks 
out, leaving the cheese exceedingly dry and hard, when it is used for grating. After 
the drying process the cheese is called Raper. 

REBBIOLA. 

Rebbiola, or Robiola, is a soft cheese made principally in the Alpine districts of 
Italy. The process of manufacture is very simple. It is generally made from milk 
skimmed after twelve hours, but whole milk is sometimes used. The cheese is circular 
and weighs about 2 pounds. The ripening process is very rapid, requiring usually 
twelve to fifteen days. The milk is set at a temperature of 90° F., the time allowed 
being usually about one-half hour. The curd is cut fine and put into molds 8 inches 
in diameter and 6 inches high, the bottom being perforated. Five hours later the 
cheeses are removed from the molds and placed on a draining board covered with 
straw. After two or three days they are salted and then ripened. 

REBLOCHON. 

This is a soft French cheese weighing 1 to 2 pounds. It is made from fresh whole 
milk which is curdled with rennet at a temperature of 80° F. or above, the time 
allowed being about thirty minutes. The curd is cut to the size of peas, cooked to 
about 95°, and after the removal of the whey is put into molds about 6 inches in 
diameter and 2 inches in height. A weight of about 5 pounds is placed upon each 
cheese, which is turned frequently and salted after about twelve hours. In a moist 
room having a temperature of about 60° the desired degree of ripening is secured in 
four to five weeks. An imitation of this cheese, made in Savoy, France, is known as 
Brizecon. 

REINDEER MILK. 

In Norway and Sweden the milk of the reindeer is sometimes used for cheesemak- 
ing. Rennet is added at 100° F., and the curd is cut and dipped into a large frame, 
where it is pressed lightly. The mass of curd is then cut into pieces 5 by 4 by 2\ 
inches, which are salted on the surface and are allowed to ripen in a dry curing room. 

RIESENGEBIRGE. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from goat's milk in the mountains on the northern 
border of Bohemia. The milk is set at about 90° F. The curd is broken up and the 
whey dipped off, after which the curd is put in forms, where it remains in a warm 
place for twenty-four hours. It is then covered with salt and after drying for three 
to four days is placed in the curing cellar. From each 100 pounds of milk 1 8 pounds of 
cheese is secured. 

RINNEN. 

This is a sour-milk cheese which was known in the eighteenth, century. It is made 
in Pomerania from milk sufficiently acid to cause a precipitation of the curd when it 
is warmed to about 90° F. The cheese derives its name from the wooden trough in 
which it is laid to drain. The curd is broken up and heated to expel the whey. The 
curd is kneaded by hand and caraway seed is added. It is molded into forms and 
pressed. Salt is then rubbed on the outside. The cheese is dried and put in a box 
to ripen. 

ROLL. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made in England from unskimmed cow's milk. It is 
cylindrical in shape, 8 inches high by 9 inches in diameter. A cheese weighs 20 
pounds. 



44 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

ROLLOT. 

This is a soft rennet cheese 2^ inches in diameter and 2 inches thick, made in the 
Departments of Somme and Oise, France. 

ROMADOUR. 

Roniadour, Remoudou, or Romatur cheese is a southern Bavarian product similar 
to Limburg. It is \\ by 2 by 2 inches in size and weighs ] pound. It is said to be 
a little finer variety of cheese than Limburg and to sell for a slightly higher price. 

ROQUEFORT. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made from the milk of sheep. There are, however, 
numerous imitations or varieties closely resembling Roquefort, such as Gex and Sept- 
moncel, made from cow's milk. One of the most striking characteristics of this cheese 
is the mottled or marbled appearance of the interior, due to the development of a 
penicillium, which is the principal ripening agent. The manufacture of Roquefort 
cheese has been carried on in the southeastern part of France for at least two cen- 
turies. The industry is particularly important in the Department of Aveyron, 
in which is situated the village of Roquefort, from which the cheese derives its 
name. It is also made in Corsica. Imitations of Roquefort cheese are made in various 
countries. 

The evening's milk is heated to 140° to 150° F., cooled, and kept over night. After 
being skimmed it is mixed with the fresh morning's milk. The mixture is then set 
with rennet at a temperature of about 90°. In from one to two hours after the addi- 
tion of rennet the curd is cut until the particles are about the size of walnuts. The 
whey which rises to the surface is dipped off and the curd is put into hoops which 
are about 8£ inches in diameter and 3^ inches in height. The hoops are filled usu- 
ally in three layers, a layer of moldy bread crumbs being interspersed between the 
first and second and second and third layers. The bread used for this purpose is 
prepared from wheat and barley flour with the addition of whey and a little vinegar. 
It is thoroughly baked and kept in a moist place for four to six weeks, during which 
time it becomes permeated with a growth of the mold referred to. The crust is re- 
moved and the interior is crumbled very fine and sifted. The cheese is subjected to 
pressure which is gradually increased for ten to twelve hours. It is turned usually 
one hour after putting into hoops. At the end of about twelve hours it is wrapped 
in cloth and taken to the first curing room. The cloths are frequently changed dur- 
ing the ten to twelve days the cheese remains in this place. 

Formerly the manufacture of the cheese up to this stage was carried on by the 
shepherds themselves, but in recent years centralized factories have been established 
and much of the milk is collected and there made into cheese. The cheese is then 
taken to the caves. These are for the most part natural caverns which exist in large 
numbers in the region of Roquefort. The temperature in these caves is 40° to 45°, 
and the air circulates very freely through them. Recently, artificial caves have been 
constructed and used. When the cheeses reach the caves they are salted, which 
serves to check the growth of the mold on the surface. One or two days later they 
are rubbed vigorously with cloth and are afterwards subjected to thorough scraping 
with knives, a process formerly done by hand, but now much more satisfactorily and 
economically by machinery. The salting, scraping, or brushing seems to check the 
development of mold on the surface. In order to favor the growth of mold in the in- 
terior, the cheese is pierced by machinery with 60 to 100 small steel needles, which 
process permits the free access of air. The cheese may be sold after thirty to forty 
days or may remain in the caves as long as five months, depending upon the degree of 
ripening desired. The cheese loses during ripening by scraping and evaporation as 
much as 25 per cent of the original weight. The weight when ripened is about A\ 
to 5 pounds. 



VARIETIES OJF CHEESE. 45 

SAANEN. 

This is a type of Emmental cheese made in Switzerland from cow's milk. It is 
sometimes known as Hartkase, Reibkase, and Walliskase. First mentioned in the 
sixteenth century, it is still manufactured extensively at the present time and ex- 
ported to a limited extent. It sells for a higher price than the regular Emmental. 
The process of manufacture is identical with that of Emmental except that it is 
cooked much dryer, takes much longer to cure, and keeps longer. The cheese weighs 
from 10 to 20 pounds. The eyes are few and small. 

The ripening period is never less than three years and many require as long as nine 
years, the average being six years. The cheeses are kept to great ages, it being the 
custom to make a cheese at the birth of a child and eat it at the burial feast or even 
at the burial feast of a son of the child for whom it is made. One cheese is mentioned 
as being two hundred years old and is considered a great honor to the household. 
Many cheeses are kept until they are thirty years old. 

SAGE. 

This cheese is made by the ordinary Cheddar process, and may be of any of tha 
various shapes and sizes in which that cheese is pressed. As seen when cut it has a 
green mottled appearance. 

Formerly sage cheese was made by mixing green sage leaves with the curd before 
it was pressed. At the present time the flavor of sage is obtained by sage extract. 
To secure the green mottles, succulent green corn is cut fine and the juice is pressed 
out. A small portion of the milk is mixed with this juice and is set with rennet in a 
small vat while the bulk of the milk is set in the ordinary manner. After the curd is 
cut and is firm enough to be handled, the green curd from the small vat is mixed 
with the uncolored curd, and the process is continued as in the Cheddar process. 
This is a very popular variety of cheese with many consumers. 

SAINT CLAUDE. 

This is a small, square, goat's-milk cheese made in the region of Saint Claude, 
France. The milk is curdled with rennet and the curd placed in molds for six to 
eight hours. It is then salted and allowed to ripen, or may, however, be eaten when 
fresh. A cheese weighs from one-quarter to one-half pound. 

SAINT BENOIT. 

This is a soft rennet cheese resembling Olivet, and is made in the Department of 
Loiret, France. Charcoal is added to the salt which is applied to the exterior of the 
cheese. Ripening requires from twelve to fifteen days in summer and eighteen to 
twenty days in winter. A cheese is about 6 inches in diameter. 

SAINT MARCELLIN. 

This is a goat's-milk cheese made in the Department of Isere, France. Sheep's 
milk or even cow's milk may be mixed with the goat's milk. A cheese is about 3 
inches in diameter and three-fourths of an inch thick and weighs about one-fourth 
pound. 

SAINT REMY. 

This is a soft rennet cheese differing but little from Pont 1'Eveque. It is made in 
the Department of Haute-Saone, France. 

SALOIO. 

This is a kind of hand cheese made from skimmed cow's milk on farms in the region 
of Lisbon, Portugal. It has the form of a short cylinder, measures l£ to 2 inches in 
diameter, and weighs about 4 ounces. A similar cheese of about the same character 
is made in Thomar, about 50 miles north of Lisbon. 



46 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

SAP SAGO. 

This cheese is made from sour skimmed cow's milk principally in Glarus, Switzer- 
land. It is known also as Schabzieger, Glarnerkase, Grunerkase, and Krauterkase. 
It is claimed to have been made in the thirteenth century; the authentic history at 
least dates back to the fifteenth century. Sap Sago is a small, hard green cheese fla- 
vored with the leaves of a species of clover; it is shaped like a truncated cone, 4 inches 
high, 3 inches in diameter at the base, and 2 inches at the top. This cheese is imported 
to some extent into the United States under the name of Sap Sago. 

The skimmed milk from which this cheese is made is not allowed to become sour 
enough to coagulate on heating, as it would make too hard a curd. The milk when it 
has reached the right acidity is heated to the boiling temperature while being, stirred. 
Cold buttermilk is then added, as is also some whey having a high percentage of acid- 
ity. The material coagulating on the surface is skimmed off. The milk is then 
stirred while sufficient acid whey is added to precipitate the casein. When too little 
whey is used the curd is too soft, and when too much is used it is too hard. The curd 
is dipped with a skimmer and spread out to cool and then put in boxes and allowed to 
drain and ferment. The box is kept at a temperature of about 60° F. and pressure is 
applied by weighting with stones. Ripening is allowed to continue for three to six 
weeks. If the temperature of the room is too high or there is not sufficient pressure, 
too rapid and strong fermentation results. This curd is used for making the finished 
product, but the cheese is seldom finished where the curd is made. The curd is 
ground in a mill and every 100 pounds of cheese contains 5 pounds of salt and 25 
pounds of dried Melilotus csenilea, an aromatic clover which is grown in the Canton of 
Schweiz for the purpose. The ground material is worked up into a dough and is 
forced into molds lined with linen cloth, and the name of the manufacturer is stamped 
on the large end. The mold is then emptied and refilled. The cheeses are dumped 
promiscuously into a large cask holding about 200 pounds. A comparatively small 
quantity is shipped into this country. It sells at a low price and is usually grated. 

SASSENAGE. 

This is a hard rennet cheese, about 12 inches in diameter and 3 inches in height, 
made from cow's milk to which small quantities of goat's and sheep's milk are usually 
added. The cheese is almost identical with that of Gex and Septmoncel. It derives 
its name from the village of Sassenage, near Grenoble, in the Department of Isere, 
France. The milk used is usually a mixture of skimmed milk and whole milk. It is 
set with rennet and the curd is cut and put into molds in the same manner as with the 
other varieties mentioned. The same is also true of the ripening process, which 
requires about two months. 

SCANNO. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made from the milk of sheep in the Apennine Mountains, 
in the Province of Abruzzo, Italy. It derives its name from the village of Scanno. 
The surface of the cheese is colored a deep black. The interior is bright yellow and 
has the consistency of butter. 

SCARMORZE. 

This is a small rennet cheese made in southern Italy from the milk of buffaloes. 

SCHAMSER. 

This cheese, which is also known as Rheinwaid, is a rennet cheese made from 
skimmed cow's milk in the Canton Graubiinden, Switzerland. The cheeses weigh 
from 40 to 45 pounds and are 18 inches in diameter and 5 inches high. 



VAKIETIES OF CHEESE. 47 

SCHLOSS. 

Schlosskase, or Castle cheese, is a Limburg cheese made in the northern part of 
Austria. It is a soft cured rennet cheese 4 by 2 by 2 inches in size. When ready for 
market it is wrapped in tin foil. 

SCHOTTENGSIED. 

This is a whey cheese made by the peasants of the Alps for home use. 

SCHWARZENBERG. 

This cheese is made in southern Bohemia and western Hungary. It is a rennet 
cheese made from partly skimmed cow's milk. One part of skimmed milk is added to 
two parts of fresh milk. In about one hour after the addition of rennet the curd is 
broken up and thoroughly stirred. It is then dipped into wooden forms and light 
pressure applied for half a day. For four or five days following the cheese is rubbed 
with salt and is then taken to the cellar, where it is washed daily with salt water until 
ripe, which requires two to three months. 

SENECTERRE. 

This is a soft rennet cheese originating at Saint Nectaire, in the Department of 
Puy-de-D6me, France. It is made out of whole milk, is cylindrical in shape, and 
weighs about 1^ pounds. 

SEPTMONCEL. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made from cow's milk to which a small proportion of 
goat's milk is sometimes added. It resembles the Gex and Sassenage varieties very 
closely and its process of manufacture is almost identical with that of Roquefort. It 
is also known as Jura blue cheese. It derives its name from the village of Septmoncel, 
near Saint-Claude, in the Department of Jura, where the cheese is for the most part 
made. The cheese is made almost exclusively on isolated farms rather than in co- 
operative dairies, and the methods employed are somewhat rudimentary. 

The milk, which is usually partly skimmed, is set with rennet at a temperature of 
about 85° F. The curd is cut and stirred after about one and one-half hours. After the 
curd has settled the whey is poured off. The stirring and draining are repeated sev- 
eral times until the curd is sufficiently firm to put into hoops. Moderate pressure is 
applied for a few hours. The cheese is salted at the end of twenty-four hours and 
thereafter daily for several days. It is then transferred to the first curing room, which 
is kept cool and moist. After three to four weeks it has become covered with blue 
mold, when it is transferred to cellars or-natural caves, where the ripening is completed 
in from three to four weeks longer. 

SERRA DA ESTRELLA. 

This is the most highly prized of the several kinds of cheeses made in Portugal. 
The name refers to the mountainous region in which the cheese is produced. It is 
made for the most part from the milk of sheep, but goat's milk is often added to this 
or even used alone, and occasionally cow's milk is used. 

The method of making this cheese is comparatively simple. The milk is warmed 
in a kettle with little regard to the temperature obtained, and is coagulated in most 
cases by means of an extract of the flowers of a kind of thistle. The time required for 
curdling varies from two to six hours, depending upon the amount of the extract used. 
The curd is broken up with a ladle or by hand, squeezed to remove most of the whey, 
and put into circular forms. After draining until sufficiently firm the cheeses are re- 
moved from the hoops and allowed to ripen for several weeks, during which time they 
are frequently washed with whey and salted on the surface. The cheeses vary much 



48 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

in size, the larger measuring about 10 inches in diameter and 2 inches thick, and weigh- 
ing about 5 pounds. The cheese is rather soft and has a pleasant acid taste. 
A similar cheese made in another part of Portugal is known as Castello Branco. 

SERVIAN. 

In making Servian cheese the milk is warmed in a kettle over a fire or in a tub by 
immersing heated stones. After the rennet is added the milk is allowed to stand one 
hour. The curd is then lifted in a cloth and the whey allowed to drain. It is then 
placed in a wooden vessel, salted, and covered successively with whey for about eight 
days and fresh milk for about six clays. 

SILESIAN. 

A cheese known locally as Schlesischer Weichquarg is made from skimmed cow's 
milk, the process of manufacture resembling that of hand cheese. The milk is allowed 
to coagulate from souring and the curd is broken up and cooked at 100° F. for a short 
period. The curd is then put in a cloth sack and light pressure applied for twenty-four 
hours, after which it is kneaded by hand and salt and milk or cream are added. Fla- 
voring substances such as onions or caraway seed are also sometimes added. The 
cheese is eaten fresh. 

Another cheese known as Schlesischer Sauermilchkase is also made in much the 
same way as hand cheese. The cheeses are kept on shelves covered with straw, and 
are dried by the stove in winter and in a latticework house in summer. Drying is con- 
tinued until the cheese becomes very hard. The cheese is ripened in a cellar, the 
process requiring three to eight weeks, during which time it is washed every few days 
with warm water. 

SIRAZ. 

This is a Servian cheese made as a rule from whole milk. The milk is set at 104° F. 
and the curd is lifted from the whey with a cloth and pressed into cakes 4 to 6 inches 
in diameter and 1 inch thick. These cakes are placed in the sun to dry until the fat 
commences to run, when they are rubbed several times with salt until a good crust is 
formed. The cakes are then packed in a wooden vessel and allowed to ripen. The cut 
surface shows a smooth appearance without holes. It is between a hard and a soft 
cheese. 

SLIPCOTE. 

This cheese is made in Rutlandshire, England. It is a soft unripened rennet cheese, 
made from cow's milk. The curd is dipped into small forms and no pressure is applied. 
After the cheese is removed from the form the surface dries and cracks and is easily 
slipped off, hence the name. It is an old cheese, having been well known in the mid- 
dle of the eighteenth century. 

SPALEN. 

This is a type of Emmentai cheese, and is sometimes known as Stringer. Its origin 
is unknown. It is made largely in the Canton of Unterwalden, Switzerland, from sweet 
cow's milk, often partly skimmed. The name it derived from the vessel in which the 
cheeses are transported and in which five or six of them are packed. This is a small 
cheese for an Emmental type. Each cheese weighs from 35 to 40 pounds. 

No thermometer is used in the manufacture, the temperature being judged by the 
feeling, and a very uneven product is the result. The process of making seems to vary 
much, the press consisting of a board with stones for weights, and the temperature of 
the cellar being poorly regulated. 

SPITZ. 

This is a small rennet cheese made from cow's milk. The cheese is cylindrical in 
shape, being 4 inches high and 1% inches in diameter. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 49 

STEPPES. 

This name is applied to a Russian cheese made from whole milk. The milk after the 
addition of coloring matter is heated to about 90° F. and treated with sufficient rennet 
to secure coagulation in forty to forty-five minutes. The curd is cut into large cubes, 
the whey removed slowly, and the curd still further broken up until the particles are 
uniformly about the size of peas. The curd is then heated gradually to 100° to 104°, 
the mass meanwhile being gently agitated. The stirring is kept up for some time after 
heating ceases until the curd becomes dry, when it is placed in molds 10 by 5£ by 7 
inches. After the cheeses are removed from the molds they are turned frequently and 
five hours later are salted and transferred to the curing cellar, where a temperature of 
about 55° is maintained. During ripening the cheeses are worked occasionally with 
salt water and turned frequently. 

STILTON. 

This is a hard rennet cheese, the best of which is made from cow's milk to which 
a portion of cream has been added. It was first made near the village of Stilton, Hunt- 
ingdonshire. England, about the middle of the eighteenth century. It is now made 
principally in Leicestershire and West Rutlandshire, though its manufacture has 
extended to other parts of England. Its manufacture has been tried, though without 
success, in the United Slates. The cheese is about 7 inches in diameter and 9 inches 
high, and weighs 12 to 15 pounds. It has a very characteristic wrinkled or ridged 
skin or rind, which is likely caused by the drying of molds and bacteria on the sur- 
face. When cut it shows blue or green portions of mold which give its characteristic 
piquant flavor. The price in this country is about 45 cents a pound wholesale. The 
cheese belongs to the same group as the Roquefort of France and the Gorgonzola of 
Italy. 

The morning's milk is put in a tin vat and the cream from the night's milk is added, 
and the whole is brought to a temperature of 80° F.. when the rennet is added. It 
is claimed by some cheese makers that the curd should be softer when broken up or 
cut than the curd for Cheddar cheese, while by others it is believed that it should 
become very firm before it is disturbed, allowing one to two hours for setting. When 
sufficiently firm the curd is dipped into cloths which are placed in tin strainers. After 
draining for one hour the cloths containing the curd are packed closely together in 
a large tub and allowed to remain for twelve hours, when they are again tightened 
and packed for eighteen hours. The curd is ground up coarse, and salt is added, 
1 pound to 60 pounds of curd. The curd is then put into tin hoops 8 inches in diam- 
eter and 10 inches deep. The cheeses remain in the hoops for six days, when they 
are bandaged for twelve days, or until they become firm, and are then placed in the 
curing room at 05°. Ripened Stilton cheese is of late often ground up and put into 
jars holding 1 to 2\ pounds. 

STRACCHINO. 

This name is applied to several forms of Italian soft cheeses, the best known of 
which is Stracchino di Gorgonzola. which is described under the name of Gorgonzola. 
A square form 6 to 8 inches on a side and \\ inches thick is known as Stracchino di 
Milano, Fresco, Quadro, or Quartirola. This cheese is prepared similarly to Gorgonzola 
but is allowed to ripen for only about two months. It is not much exported. Strac- 
chino Crescenza is a very soft and highly colored cheese usually eaten fresh. The 
form is similar to that of the Quartirola. It is usually marketed in about eight days 
and can not be kept long. 

STYRIA. 

This is a cylindrical-shaped cheese made from unskimmed cow's milk in Styria, 
Austria. 



50 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

SWEET CURD. 

This is a name applied in the United States to a hard rennet cheese made from 
cow's milk. The name is used to distinguish it from the ordinary Cheddar or granu- 
lar process, as in making Sweet Curd cheese the milk is set sweet and the cutting and 
cooking are done rapidly without regard to the development of acid. In making 
this cheese the curd is cooked very firm and is salted and put to press immediately. 
In all other respects the process is the same as for Cheddar, and the cheese when ripened 
resembles that cheese very closely. 

SWISS. 

Swiss or Schweitzer cheese belongs to the Emmental group of cheeses and is made 
usually from half-skimmed cow's milk. Its manufacture is very old. It is supposed 
to have originated in the Alps, but is now made in most of the surrounding countries. 
It is made mostly in the winter season when the price of butter is high, and only for 
local consumption. Its manufacture differs from real Emmental in that it is made 
from half-skimmed milk. The morning's milk is first heated and the skimmed even- 
ing's milk is added. The curd is cut coarser and is not cooked so firm as Emmental, 
which gives a softer and more quickly ripened cheese. 

TAFI. 

This cheese is manufactured in the Province of Tucuman, in the Argentine Republic. 

TAMIE. 

This cheese is made by the Trappists in Savoy, France. The whole milk is heated 
to about 80° F. and coagulated with rennet in about thirty minutes. The curd is 
cut fine, cooked to about 100°, stirred, and put into molds 7 inches in diameter and 
4 inches in height. The cheese is pressed for six to eight hours, the cloths being 
changed frequently. After being salted the cheese is ripened for five to six weeks. 
The method of manufacture is, to a large extent, a trade secret. The Tome de Beau- 
mont is a more or less successful imitation. 

TEXEL. 

This is a sheep's-milk cheese made in Holland. It was known in the seventeenth 
century. A cheese weighs 3 to 4 pounds and is colored green. 

THENAY. 

This is a soft rennet cheese resembling Camembert and Vendome and is made in the 
region of Thenay in the Department of Loir-et-Cher, France. It is of comparatively 
recent origin and its consumption is limited practically to the region in which it is 
produced. 

The evening's milk without being skimmed is mixed with the fresh morning's milk. 
The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 85° F. and allowed to stand for 
four to five hours. The curd is then broken up and put into hoops about 5 inches 
in diameter and 4 inches in height. After draining for about one day it is turned and 
salted. The cheese is then kept for about twenty days in a well-ventilated room 
during which time it becomes covered with molds. It is then taken to the curing cellar 
for about fifteen days. 

TIGNARD. 

This is a hard rennet cheese, resembling Gex and Sassenage, made from sheep's 
and goat's milk in the valley of the Tigne, in Savoy, France. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 51 

TILSIT. 

This is a hard rennet cheese made mainly in East Prussia from unskimmed cow's 
milk. It is sometimes called Ragnit. The milk is set at 92° F. with sufficient rennet 
to coagulate in from fifteen to forty minutes. The curd is rather coarsely cut or broken 
and is cooked to 104° to 110°, being stirred meanwhile with a harp. The curd is cooked 
quite firm or until it can not be squeezed through between the fingers, which requires 
about forty minutes. It is then dipped into cylindrical forms, where it remains 
twenty-four hours. The cheese is then covered thickly with salt for from one to two 
days, when it is put into a salt bath for three to five days and then transferred to the 
cellar. Here it is rubbed and washed with salt water frequently, and allowed to ripen 
for four to six months. The cheese is 6 to 12 inches in diameter, 3 to 4 J inches in 
height, and weighs from G to 28 pounds. It resembles in general characteristics the 
Brick cheese of the United States. 

TOPPEN. 

This is a German sour-milk cheese made from skim milk and eaten while fresh. It 
is put up in small packages weighing about 1 ounce. 

TRAPPIST. 

This cheese originated with the Trappists in 1885 in the monastery of Mariastern, 
near Banjaluka, in Bosnia. The fresh milk is heated to about 85° F. and rennet is 
added. After one to one and one-half hours the curd, without being cut or stirred, 
is put into hoops and pressed, after which it is salted and ripened. The growth of 
mold is entirely prevented by frequent washing and thus the cheese ripens uniformly 
throughout. The ripening period of the smaller cheeses is five to six weeks in summer, 
but the cheese is usually shipped at the end of four to five weeks. The cheese is pale 
yellow in color and has a remarkably mild taste. Although this cheese is to be classed 
among the soft varieties, the water content is often below 45 per cent. The ripening 
is also more characteristic of the hard cheeses. The smallest size of the cheese made 
in the monastery referred to has a diameter of 6 inches, a height of 2 inches, and weighs 
2 to 3 pounds. A larger size measures 9 inches in diameter, 2h inches in height, and 
weighs about 10 pounds. There is also a still larger size. The cheese is exported to a 
large extent to Austria and Hungary, the most important centers of the trade in these 
regions being Gratz and Budapest. It is, however, found in all of the large cities of 
Austria, and the demand appears to he constantly increasing. 

TRAVNIK. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made usually from whole sheep's milk to which a small 
amount of goat's milk is added. Skimmed milk, however, is sometimes used. It is 
also known as Arnauten and Vlasic. This cheese originated in Albania in the north- 
western part of Turkey in Europe and has been made for at least a century. In the 
country of origin it was known at first by the name Arnautski Sir or Arnauten cheese. 
At the present time it is made in Bosnia and Herzegovina, but principally in the Vlasic 
Plain. The center of trade in this cheese is Travnik in Bosnia. 

The fresh warm milk is treated with sufficient rennet to secure coagulation in one and 
one-fourth to two hours and is then allowed to stand for a short time until the coagulum 
contracts and the whey appears on the surface. The curd is then put into woolen 
sacks and drained for seven to eight hours, when it is pressed into flattened balls by 
hand. These are dried for a short time in the open air and then packed into wooden 
receptacles varying in diameter from 14 to 28 inches, having a height of about 24 inches, 
and holding from 50 to "130 pounds of cheese. Each layer of cheese is salted and 
pressed so that no air spaces are left. When the receptacle is filled the whey usually 
shows at the surface, any excess being removed. Moderate pressure is applied to the 



52 VARIETIES OP CHEESE. 

cover placed upon the cheese. When fresh, the cheese made from whole sheep's milk 
has a soft consistency, a nearly white color, and a pleasant, mild taste. The cheese, 
however, is usually allowed to ripen for two weeks to several months. No holes should 
develop in the cheese. 

TROUVILLE. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made in the same locality as Pont l'Ev&que and is of the 
same nature though superior in quality. Only fresh whole milk is used. The tem- 
perature of setting with rennet is 85° to 95° F. The growth of molds during ripening is 
prevented by frequent washing with salt water. 

TROYES. 

Two kinds of cheese are referred to by this name — one a washed cheese with a yellow 
rind, known as Ervy, and the other a cheese very closely resembling Camembert and 
known as Barberey. The industry is quite restricted. 

TWOROG. 

This is a sour-milk cheese made in Russia. The soured milk is kept in a warm place 
for twenty-four hours, when the whey is removed and the curd put into wooden forms 
and subjected to pressure. This cheese is made on a large scale by farmers and is often 
used in making a bread called "Notruschki." 

URI. 

This is a hard rennet cow's-milk cheese made in the Canton of Uri, Switzerland. It 
has a diameter of 8 to 12 inches, and is 8 inches high. It weighs 20 to 40 pounds. 

VACHERIN. 

This name is applied to two quite different kinds of cheese. . 

The form designated Vacherin a la Main is made in Switzerland and in Savoy, France. 
Whole cow's milk is set with rennet at a temperature of about 85° F., and the curd is 
cut very fine and put into hoops 12 inches in diameter and 5 to 6 inches high. It is 
salted and ripened. The rind is firm and hard but the interior is almost liquid in con- 
sistency. It is either spread on bread or eaten with a spoon. A ripened cheese weighs 
from 5 to 10 pounds. A cheese of this kind made in the same region is known locally as 
Tome de Montagne. 

The form designated Vacherin Fondu is made in much the same manner as Emmen- 
tal cheese. The ripened cheese is then melted and spices are added. 

VENDOME. 

This is a soft rennet cheese resembling Camembert and Thenay, and is made in the 
region of Venddme in the Department of Loir-et-Cher, France. 

The warm morning's milk is usually mixed with that of the previous evening, which 
secures ordinarily a setting temperature of 75° to 85° F., which is desired. The period 
of setting is four to five hourL in summer and five to six hours in winter. The curd is 
then broken up and put into hoops about 5 inches in diameter and 4 inches in height. 
After draining for twenty-four hours the cheese is turned and salted, which process is 
twice repeated at intervals of twelve hours. When sufficiently dried it is placed in the 
curing cellar where it is often buried in ashes. This cheese is placed by some on a 
rank with Camembert. The principal market is Paris. 

VILLIERS. 

This is a soft rennet cheese made in the Department of Haute-Marne, France. It is a 
square cheese weighing about 1 pound. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 53 

VOID. 

This is a soft rennet cheese resembling Pont l'Eveque and Limburg. It is made in 
the Department of Meuse, France. The milk is set with rennet at a high temperature, 
the whey is removed as rapidly as possible, and the cheeses during ripening are washed 
frequently with salt water. 

VORARLBERG SOUR-MILK. 

This, as the name indicates, is made from sour cow's milk. It is semicircular in 
shape and varies in size. It is essentially a hard cheese. 

The sweet milk is put in a kettle and raised to 77° F., and sour thickened milk is 
added and the mixture stirred and heated to 95°, at which temperature it coagulates. 
While, this is being stirred with a curd scoop the temperature is raised to 105°. The 
curd is then dipped into forms, where it is turned a few times during twenty-four 
hours. Salt is rubbed on the surface and the cheese is placed in a room having a tem- 
perature of 67°. The cheese is then placed in a cask and held for three days, and salt 
is sprinkled over the surface daily. The ripening is completed in a cellar. When 
ripe the cheese is greasy and has a very strong odor and flavor. 

WEISSLAK. 

This is a soft cured rennet cheese made from cow's milk in the Bavarian Algau, Ger- 
many. The cheese weighs about 2^ pounds, and is rectangular in shape, 4^ by 4 by 
3A inches. 

WENSLEYDALE. 

This cheese derives its name from the valley in Yorkshire, England, in which it is 
made. It is a rennet cheese made from whole cow's milk. It is cylindrical in shape 
and weighs from 5 to 15 pounds. 

In the old method of manufacture the evening's milk is heated to 100° F., and the 
fresh morning's milk is added. It is set with sufficient rennet to coagulate it in thirty- 
five minutes. The breaking or cutting process requires thirty-five minutes, after 
which the curd is allowed to stand for forty-five minutes at 90°. The whey is then 
removed, and the curd is put in vats lined with cloth and light pressure is applied for 
thirty minutes. The curd is broken up and allowed to drain for one hour. It is then 
milled and is pressed for twenty-four hours, when it is wrapped in cloth, and finally 
put in brine for three days. 

In the new method of manufacture the evening's milk and the morning's milk are 
mixed in a copper kettle, heated to 95°, and enough rennet is added to coagulate it in 
forty-five minutes. The curd is then broken up by hand or with a breaker. The 
whey is removed and the curd dipped into tin hoops where it drains for three hours. 
It is then turned and drained for another three hours. After pressing for twenty-four 
hours, the cheese is salted by immersion in brine for three days. 

WEST FRIESIAN. 

This is a rennet cheese made from skimmed cow's milk. The milk is set in a copper 
kettle, one hour being allowed for coagulation. The curd is broken up and placed in 
a wooden tub, where it is kneaded. The curd is allowed to stand for several hours and 
then salted. It is pressed for three hours, washed in hot water, wrapped in a fine 
cloth, and again pressed for twelve hours. The cheese is eaten when one week old. 

WESTPHALIA SOUR-MILK. 

This is a hand cheese made in Westphalia. Sour milk is stirred and heated to 100° 
F., and placed in a sack and the whey pressed out. The curd is then kneaded by 
hand and salted, butter and caraway seed or pepper being added. It is then molded 
by hand, dried for a few hours, and ripened in a cellar. 



54 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

WHITE. 

Fromage Blanc, or White cheese, is a skim-milk cheese made in France during the 
summer months. The milk is set with rennet at about 75° F. The curd is usually- 
molded into cylindrical forms. The cheese is consumed while fresh and may or may 
not be salted, 

WITHANIA. 

This is so called because made with rennet manufactured from withania berries. 
Cheese made with the rennet of these berries is said to have an agreeable flavor if 
ripened to the right degree, but it develops an acrid flavor with age. The texture is 
not so good as with animal rennet. This form of rennet is recommended for use in 
India, where the religion and prejudice of the people make the use of animal rennet 
impractical. 

ZIEGEL. 

This is a cheese made in-Austria either from whole cow's milk or from whole milk 
to which 15 per cent of cream has been added. The cheese measures 3 by 2 by 2\ 
inches, and weighs about one-half pound. 

In making the whole-milk cheese the milk is warmed to 95° F. and sufficient rennet 
is added to coagulate it in thirty minutes. The curd is broken up with a harp and cut 
loose from the bottom of the vessel, after which it is allowed to remain undisturbed 
for thirty minutes. At the end of this time the curd, which is again matted together, 
is cut into pieces and stirred gently for a considerable time, after which it is allowed 
to stand again for fifteen minutes. The collected whey is then dipped off and the 
curd is dipped into forms which are 24 inches long, 5 inches high, and hold the curd 
of 7h to 8 gallons of milk. Before the form is filled a cheese cloth is placed in it which 
helps in turning the curd. The curd remains in the form twenty-four hours to drain 
and is then cut into measured sizes and placed in another form, where it is allowed to 
remain for eight days, the curd being turned and the board on which the form rests 
being changed daily. Salt is then sprinkled on the cheese and for one month it is 
washed in salt water and rubbed with the hands every day. It is ready for market 
in eight weeks from the time of making. 

ZIGER. 

This is a cheese made from the whey obtained in the manufacture of other cheese. 
It consists principally of albumin, but where no effort is made to separate the fat 
from the whey the product may contain a relatively high proportion of fat. It is a 
cheap food product made in all the countries of Central Europe. Among the many 
names applied to it are Albumin cheese, Recuit, Ricotta, Broccio, Brocotte, Serac, 
and Ceracee. 

In the manufacture of this product an effort is sometimes made to remove the fat 
remaining in the whey, but in most cases the fat is allowed to remain. Where it is 
desired to skim the whey a small portion of very sour whey, previously prepared, is 
added to the sweet whey and the whole is heated to 160° to 175° F. for a few minutes, 
when the fat collects on the surface and can lie skimmed off. Following this a greater 
portion of sour whey is added and the whey is then heated nearly to the boiling point, 
when the albumin is precipitated in a flocculent condition and rises to the surface of 
the whey. When the whey is not in normal condition the albumin may be precipi- 
tated in a powdery' mass. This is often prevented by adding 3 to 5 per cent of butter- 
milk to the whey before the last heating. The casein of the buttermilk is precipitated, 
the albumin being carried with it. It is considered that this addition of casein injures 
the product. The albumin when skimmed from the whey is salted and packed in a 
vessel and may be covered with whey. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 55 

A so-called formed Ziger cheese is made by molding the half-dried albumin into 
squares which may be still further dried. Some of these have local names, such as 
the Hudelziger made in the Canton of Glarus, Switzerland. 

In Vorarlberg the albumin is skimmed from the whey, allowed to cool, placed in 
cheese cloth, and subjected to increasing pressure in an Emmental cheese press. 
After twenty-four hours the cheese is put into a salt bath to which sweet cider and 
vinegar are sometimes added. 

A mixture of Ziger and cream prepared in the Savoy is known as Gruau de Montagne. 
An albumin cheese made from the whey of goat's-milk cheese in the Canton of Grau- 
biinden, Switzerland, is known as Mascarponi. 



ANALYSES OF CHEESE. 



Varietj 



Alemtejo. . 

Backstein. . 

Battelmatt 

Bellelay . . . 

Bondon. . . 

Brick 

Brie 



Brie- 
American 

Brinsen 

Burgundy . . . 
Caciocavallo . 

Caerphilly . . . 
Cambridge. . 
Camembert.. 



Cantal . 



Authority/' 



2Si umber of 
analyses. 



Water. Fat. 



Hoffman. 
Pereira . . 



(Average. . . 

4-^ Maximum . 

[Minimum. 



Fleischmann. 



Lindt 2. 



Eugling. 



Benecke 

Lindt 

Chattaway . 

Lindet 

Weems 

Balland 



Blyth... 
Duclaux . 



von-Klenze. 
Lindet 

Payen 



{Average . . . 
Maximum . 
Minimum. 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 



(Average. . . 
5^ Maximum. 

I Minimum. 
1 



Arnold 1 . 

Johnson 1 . 

Maior 2. 



Melikoff 3 



Balland . 
Sartori. . 



(Average. . . 
Spica 9< Maximum. 

[Minimum. 

Chattaway j 1 

Chattaway 1 

Arnold 1 

Balland ; 1 

Chattaway 2 

Duclaux 1 

Kriiger 1 

Lindet ; 1 

Macoir 1 

Muter ! 1 

Payen 1 

Ro'llet 1 

Stutzer 1 



Balland. 



Lindet 

Patrick (2) . 



{Average . . . 
Maximum 
Minimum . 
1 



Per ct. 
30.22 
41.11 
48.39 
32.97 
(73. 12 
\61.04 
(45. 24 
(35.80 
47.71 
50.53 
44.24 
39.62 
37.59 
39.50 
54. 30 
3S.69 
(48. 80 
\43. 90 
51.90 
50.04 
53.84 
46.06 
55.69 
53.50 
(53. 99 
\45.25 

41.50 
60.20 
(49.20 
\37. 70 
43. 10 
49.70 
52.20 
29.50 
(19. 76 
\22.09 
23.68 
33.24 
15.34 
24.80 
32.10 
50.41 
49.00 
47.90 
43.40 
45.24 
59.42 
53.80 
49.87 
48.78 
51.94 
52.98 
50.90 
28. 50 
35.10 
39.00 
43.48 
44.80 
40.70 
40.90 
39.92 



Per ct. 
38.25 
27.49 
31.59 
25.27 
2.76 
6.80 
28.16 
37.40 
24.08 
29.42 
20.52 
30.10 
30.05 
24. 40 
23.00 
28.86 
22.45 
28.93 
24.80 
27.50 
29. 50 
24.60 
21.42 
22.50 
24.83 
25.73 

36.15 
20.96 
22.30 
32.60 
27.70 
27.00 
26.20 
38.55 
36.71 
35.^0 
25.49 
30.09 
19.00 
30.40 
47.10 
20. 55 
21.65 
21.90 
22.60 
30.31 
17.24 
22.00 
25. 54 
21.35 
21.05 
23.71 
27.30 
34.10 
28.30 
26. 90 
25.70 
31.10 
22.50 
29.30 
28.14 



Pro- 

teids, 

amids, 

etc. 



Per ct. 
20.87 
21.45 
24.33 
17.77 
19.84 
23.85 
23.14 
24.44 
22.99 
24.48 
21.22 
25. 70 
28.88 
9.40 
16.10 
23.80 
19.94 
19.04 
18.10 
18.34 
19.94 
17.16 
17.29 
18.00 
14.94 
18.48 

17.63 
15.94 
23.10 
25.20 
19. &0 
14.30 
14.40 
28.84 
37.83 
36.06 
29.25 
35.09 
22.16 
37.20 
24.60 
25.49 
18.72 
21.80 
24.40 
19.75 
17.13 
17.10 
18.76 
21.07 
18.90 
19.12 
18.66 
28.38 
24.98 
24.22 
22.55 
24.10 
21.50 
20.50 
28.84 



Per ct. 
3.06 
4.66 
5.24 

3.82 
2.17 
3.48 



Milk 
sugar, 
lactic 
acid, 
etc. 



2.35 
3.35 
2.25 



4.85 
6.63 



4.93 



1.37 
1.00 
2.70 
1.20 
1.80 
1.30 
1.65 



Total 
ash. 



4.46 
7.22 
5.93 
6.47 
7.50 
4.30 



Per ct. 
7.60 
6.07 
6.40 
5.87 
2.11 
4.83 
3.46 
2.36 
2.87 
3.14 
2.71 
4.72 
3.48 
.70 
5.00 
4.20 
3.96 
1.50 
5.00 
4.12 
4.37 
3.57 
5.60 
4.00 
5.63 
5.61 

4.70 
1.53 
4.40 
5.80 
7.30 
6.80 
6.00 
1.46 
5.60 
5.S 
7.63 
10.50 
5.79 
3.40 
4.40 
3.52 
4. 
4.70 
3. 
4.70 
1.56 
4.40 
5.83 
3.46 
4.71 
4.19 
3.14 
4.56 
4.40 
3.95 



4.80 
4.50 



56 



a See Sources of analytical data for details. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

Analyses of cheese — Continued. 



57 









1 




Pro- 


Milk 






Variety. 


Authority 


Number of 
analyses. 


Water 


Fat. 


teids, 

amids 

etc. 


lactic 
acid, 
etc. 


' Total 
ash. 


Salt in 

ash. 








Per et. 


Per ct. 


Per ct. 


Per ct. 


Per ct. 




Cheddar- 




[Average 


34.04 


35.56 


26.87 




3.40 








S^Maximum . 
[Minimum. . 


38.50 

2S.11 


41.03 
31.19 


28.15 
25.57 




4.05 
2.71 
















(Average 


24.93 


32. 02 


38.01 




4.42 








79] Maximum. . 


40.04 


52. 03 


55. 27 




8.86 








1 Minimum. .. 


3.55 


23.20 


27. 07 




2.41 






Clark 


[Average 

89<Maximum . . 


31.97 

38. 10 


27.72 
36.94 


34. 02 
41.47 




3. 54 
4 00 














(Minimum... 


26.64 


L9. 58 


28. 7:; 




2.59 








13 Average 


41.1.-, 
[35.38 


15. 39 
32. 50 


40.10 
23.91 





3.33 

3.73 







Cooke 


3 




27.70 
37. 52 


25.58 
20. 19 




3.96 

3.71 










(34.62 









Drew 


201 Average. . .. 

[Average 

Maximum. . 


31.05 

40. 32 


35. 54 
20. 05 


33.41 

29.89 














3.74 






fioessmann 


4. r >. 41 


37. 32 


34.94 




5.14 








[Minimum. . . 


35.83 


15. 77 


22. 13 




2. 35 








[Average. . . 


33.09 


38.78 


2l.'.i:: 


1 . 99 


4.09 






Patrick (11 


1 1" [Ma ximuin . 


38. 36 


49. 56 


31.70 


2. 34 


4.73 








iMinimum. . 


26. 48 


24.77 


15.38 


1.05 


2. 43 






Snyder 


5 Average 

506 Average.. - 


32. 71 
37.14 


35.25 
34.65 


20. Nl 
23. 64 














5 4.57 








(Average. .. 


36. 84 


33. s:{ 


23,. 72 




c 5. 01 








Mn' Maximum . 


43.89 


30. 79 


20. 1 1 




7.02 








I Minimum. . 


32. 69 


30.00 


20.80 




3. 12 






Van Slyke 


[Average. . . 


36.06 


34. 43 


24.45 


.01 


3.01 








^■Maximum . 


41.15 


45.30 


28. 72 


.76 


5. 29 








I Minimum. . 


32. 23 


23. 27 


18.45 


.51 


1.81 








[Average. . . 
GA Maximum . 


34.01 


30.81 


2:,. 119 




c :\. 50 








38. 10 


44. 33 


30.09 




4.59 









IMinimum. . 


29.85 


27 22 


21.53 




•-> 70 






\ oelcker 


4 Average 


32. 39 


31.44 


20. 57 


5. 02 


4.57 


1.49 






[Average 


3G.42 


36. 95 


21.15 


1.36 


3. SI 






w ailace 


15ff-j Maximum .. 


41.6.5 


46. 80 


32.09 


2.08 


4.01 








IMinimum... 


30. 25 


21.77 


14.11 


.41 


2. 55 










130.53 


41.58 


23. 38 


2.45 


2.06 






M ilson 


3 


^31.70 
143.82 


36.18 

5.98 


27. 19 
45.04 


1.95 
3.12 


2.98 
2.06 




Cheddar— 








Canadian 


Chattaway 


1 




30. 60 


27.60 




3.60 












[Average 


34.07 


22.54 


40.02 




3.45 






Clark 




36.58 
32.28 


25. 67 
20.13 


43.52 
33. 82 




3.93 
3.14 








IMinimum.. . 










59 Average 


34. 60 


35.51 


23.18 




c6.70 






Shuttelworth > 


Average ft... 


32. 53 


30. 00 


23.94 




(•7.48 








135 Average g... 


30. 54 


33.81 


23. 96 




<■ 5. 69 




Chedda r— 




135 Average i. . . 


33. r>i 


32.97 


24.94 




c8.58 




English 


Blyth 


2 Average 
[Average 


28. 10 
35. 00 


22.50 
29.02 


45. 60 

27. 72 




4.10 
3.12 








. ... 






( hat taway 


4 Maximum. . 


37.70 


30.50 


29.00 




4. 30 








IMinimum... 


33.00 


25. 00 


26. 70 




3.90 








1 


30 34 




22. 98 
30 15 


2.10 


4.22 
3. 21 
4.58 
4.05 






IIa.ssall 


1 


30. 10 


36 54 






Jones 


1 


30. 04 


30 40 


•>s 'IS 










| Average 


35.52 


30. 33 


30.04 








Lloyd 




37.73 
32. 85 


34. 05 
24. 00 


35. 10 
22. 77 




4.60 
3.40 








iMinimum. . . 










(Average 


35. If, 


30.45 


27.80 


3.16 


3.42 


.70 




\ oelcker 


13 Maximum . . 


39. 43 


41. 58 


32.37 


6.80 


4. SI 


1.55 






IMinimum. . 


30.32 


23. 21 


23. 28 


.22 


2.00 


.09 






1 


35. 22 


27. 91 


33.47 




3.40 




Cheddar— 






Queensland 


Brunnicb 


2 


31.62 

27. (,7 


35.17 
37.35 


24. 59 
26.24 





4.09 
4.04 


1.41 



a The 15 analyses are each Hie. average of 5 monthly analyses 

YV ailace. 



The green cheese was analyzed by 



i> Green cheese made at New York State Agricultural Experiment Station ls'i" 

c Sugar, ash, etc. 

d Green cheese made at numerous factories in New York, 1892 and 1893 

« Age of cheese, seven weeks. 

/Age of cheese, five months. 

9 Green cheese 

i> Age of cheese, 1 month. 

i Cured cheese. 



58 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 



Analyses of cheese — Continued. 



Variety. 



Cheshire. 



Cotherstone. . 
Coulommiers. 



Cream — 
English. 



Cream — 

French Demi-Sel. 



Crescenza 

Danish Export. 



Derbyshire. 
Dorset 



Dnnlop. 
Edam. . 



Edam — American . 



Emmental. 



Engandine 

Formaggini di Lecco. 
Gammelost 



Oervais. 



Authority. 



Arnold 

Balland 

Blades 

Chattaway . 

Griffiths.... 
Lindet 

Payen 

Voelcker 

Griffiths.... 

Voelcker 

Balland 

Lindet 

Chattaway. 

llassall 

Payen 

Vieth 

Balland 



Lindet. .. 
Duclaux. 



Storch. 



Sheldon.. 
Griffiths. 
Vieth.... 
Jones 

Arnold. . 
Balland.. 



Dahl . 



Hassall 

von Ivlenze. 

Lindet 

Mayer 

Patrick (2). 

Payen 



Haecker. 



VanSlyke. 



Hornig 

von Klenze. 

Lindt 



do... 

Cornalba . 
Voelcker. 



Balland. 



Konig 

Richmond. 
Stutzer 



Number of 



1 

1 

(Average.. . 

6-J Maximum 

Minimum. 



f Average. . . 
Maximum 
Minimum. 



1 

1 

[Average . . . 
9-J Maximum. 

(Minimum.. 

1 

1 

1 

1 



{Average . . 
Maximum . 
Minimum. 



3<i. 



{Average. . . 
Maximum. 
Minimum . 
{Average 
Maximum . . 
Minimum. . . 

1 

1 

(Average 

5-j Maximum. . 

[Minimum. .. 

1 



1 

[Average. . . 
4{ Maximum. 

[Minimum. . 

1 

1 

1 



Water. 



Per ct. 
24.69 
22.60 
44.59 
52.60 
36.10 
(37.80 
131.60 
27. 55 
31.10 
[30.39 
(35. 92 
(36. 96 
132. 59 
38.20 
1 38. 28 
(38. 23 
50.40 
(53.00 
157. 80 

(57.60 
114.00 
30.34 
9.48 
36.49 
47.94 
27.69 
52.10 

49.60 
56.75 
45.99 
49.88 
38.78 
31.60 
41.44 
41.55 
38.46 
29. 23 
[29. 56 
/37. 90 
(38.50 
51.66 
60.38 
41.70 
32. 57 
33.62 
42.85 
30.10 
41.88 
42.60 
33.20 
32.80 
(36. 10 
141. 41 
48. 09 
'44.44 
[46.80 
47.55 
55.34 
41.25 
37.77 
47.54 
30.49 
33.53 
35.18 
33.00 
37.44 
24.17 
47.30 
(61.00 
(16. 66 
42.44 
51.58 
58.00 
44.70 
52.94 
33.80 
44.84 



Pro- 

teids, 

amids. 

etc. 



Per ct. 
37.08 
39.50 
21. 55 
30.67 
9.85 
31.30 
35.30 
36.00 
32.30 
25.48 
26.34 
29.34 
32.51 
30.25 
30.89 
29. 12 
20.45 
21.50 
25.00 

39.30 
08.10 
67.32 
59.88 
56.08 
66.80 
43.76 
25.20 

34.00 
21.34 
13.41 
23.70 

9.34 
35.20 
27.56 

8.76 
31.86 
28.71 
27.43 
25.90 
24.29 
11.85 
24.40 

3.83 
32.19 
33.99 
26.73 
27.57 
24.05 
20.00 
28.00 
29.58 
27.54 
25. 06 
23.21 
25.37 
23.30 
24.42 
31.75 
19.73 
23.92 
34.70 

5.75 
30.29 
27.99 
30.50 
33.37 
28.54 
11.40 
19.20 
41.50 

3.36 
31.98 
40.47 
26.85 
29.75 
57.79 
36.73 



Per ct. 
33.36 
27.16 
29.25 
32. 95 
24.44 
25.70 
26.50 
31.00 
30.90 
34.75 
25.99 
24. 08 
26.00 
23. 82 
23. 93 
24.38 
17.41 
16.90 
13.00 

19.00 

20.10 
2.02 

18.40 
5.28 
8.77 
2.00 

13.49 

11.80 
18.91 
30.01 
34.00 
27.69 
24.50 
22.25 
44.09 
25.87 
33.89 
32.31 
27.32 
25.34 
26.82 
31.92 
24.00 
23.98 
23.48 
19.39 
32.81 
29.47 
23.90 
29.60 
28.41 
29.43 
25.63 
21.49 
22.69 
24.24 
22.18 
24.70 
18.95 
30.97 
37.65 
25.51 
29.99 
32.23 
30.34 
37.51 
30.44 
36.34 
16.37 
35.80 
42.12 
11. 30 
19.94 

7.20 
11.80 

7.90 
15.48 



Perct. 



Milk 
sugar. 
lactic 
acid, 
etc. 



6.80 



7.59 
5.17 
4.53 
3.81 
3.70 
2.76 
4.80 



5.77 

1.27 

2.50 

.22 

8.28 



5.10 
5.90 
2.65 
4.38 
4.24 



4.08 
9.07 



6.35 
6.34 
5.15 



2.60 



3. 83 
3.79 
2.92 



. 31 



9.85 
4.29 
7.09 
2.13 
2.58 



Total 
ash. 



Per ct. 
4.85 
3.94 
4.61 
5.00 
3.90 
4.20 
4.40 
3.24 
3.70 
4.78 
4.16 
4.45 
4.31 
3.92 
3.20 
5.51 
6.94 
5.70 
4.10 

3.40 

1.20 

.32 

6.47 

.82 

1.48 

.44 

.93 

3.00 
2.90 
3.63 
4.17 
3 33 
4.24 
4.51 
5.60 
3.81 
8.14 
8.49 
4.80 
2.80 
6.04 
7.33 
5.54 
4.67 
2.42 
5.62 
6.84 
4.60 
5.50 
6.60 
5.55 
6.93 
6.21 
3.02 
2.59 
3.08 
6 5.80 
9.46 
2.51 
6.85 
11.09 
4.60 
5.88 
4.60 
4.17 
4.95 
3.38 
4.96 
3.43 
6.10 
2.22 

.60 
1.42 

.25 
2.93 

.50 
2.95 



a Green cheese. 



b Sugar, ash, etc. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 



59 



Analyses of cheese — Continued. 



Variety. 


Authority. 


Number of 
analyses. 


Water. 


Fat. 


Pro- 
teids, 
amids, 

etc. 


Milk 
sugar, 
lactic 
acid, 
etc. 


Total 
ash. 


Salt in 
ash. 


Gex 


Balland 

Boggild 

Bell 


2 


Per ct. 
(31. 50 
(32. 10 
49. 22 

21.40 
(33. lo 
137. 40 
34. 10 
32. 52 


Per ct. 
28.85 
32.20 
2 96 
28.35 
25. 40 
23. 50 

28. 10 
37. 92 

29. 94 
21.97 
28. 02 
33. 68 

22. 70 
25. 90 

9.20 
46. 64 
19.86 

32. 68 
10.98 
27. 88 
26.10 
26.70 
29.70 
34.07 

33. 69 
35. 29 
29.00 
37. 52 
34. 08 
36. 19 
34. 67 
39. 32 
29.00 
27.95 
24.81 

9.02 
18.37 

1.64 
31.20 
29.40 
16.18 
31.13 
29. 04 
28.29 
28.19 
33. 40 

23. 10 
26.59 
28. 60 
31.80 
29.29 
28.00 
29.12 
30.64 
24.00 
28.40 

1.34 

1.04 

1.83 

1.11 

23.93 

32.00 

27. 15 

24.74 

37.48 

15.88 

55.79 

63.82 

50.16 

14.10 

25.50 

31.24 

1.31 

1.45 


Per ct. 

29 96 
29.86 
41.53 

31. 10 

48.10 
31.80 
28. 30 
21. 68 
31.70 
37. 96 
27.96 
31.75 
24.50 
33. 60 
17.10 
27.90 
7.62 
10. 63 
4.43 
34.34 
27.70 
25.80 
23.14 
22.78 
25.67 
33. 80 
19.70 
26. 75 
25.94 
26.94 
25.16 
28.51 
20. 33 
24.17 
46.95 
25.94 
34 22 
22. 05 
24.40 
27.01 
37.43 
18.01 
19.25 
19.64 
33.03 
37.80 
29.54 
26.18 
31.30 
28.70 
30.84 
28.90 
32. 51 
29.95 
31.50 
33.75 
37. 01 
27.72 
22.43 
19. 38 
20.86 
30. 62 
24. 30 
30.09 
38.60 
25. 10 
6.25 
8.73 
4.94 
28.10 
28.00 
24.25 
78. 68 


Per ct. 

5.51 

.34 


Per ct. 
4.18 
5.50 


Perct. 




1 






1. 


.31 

1.98 

4. 37 
7.44 
1.22 
15! 30 

46.81 

58.07 

39. 04 

1.35 

.21 

1.62 

2.00 

.91 

"3." 64' 
3.18 
3.40 
4.82 
7.40 
1.50 
1.94 

'T56' 

«14. 80 

"18.00 

021. 40 

7.71 

2.85 

7.71 

2.01 
3.20 
.42 
2.50 
1.40 
2.84 
1.93 


4.49 
4.10 
5.00 
4.60 
4. 32 
5.84 
4.25 

4. 53 
5.70 
3.56 
4.40 
5.80 
4.74 
6.06 
6.57 

5. 14 
4.58 
5.30 
4.60 
4. 36 
4.46 
3.71 
4.10 
4.80 
4.08 

a6.77 

a 10. 46 

3.82 

4. 03 
3. 13 
4.32 
6.32 
5.52 
7.30 
4.26 
5.60 
5.41 
3.81 
2.55 
2.88 
3.12 
3.96 
4.70 
3.50 
4.68 
4.70 
3.70 
3.87 
3.50 
3.80 
3.67 
3.00 
4.79 
5.86 

5. 05 
5.25 
5. 30 

10.00 
0. 14 
3.95 
9.40 

12.70 
4.58 
4.50 
8.38 
2.61 
4.80 
6.00 
6.42 
9.46 

17.84 






Myth 






Chattaway 

Griffiths 

Hassall 

Jones 

Voelcker 

Balland 

Llndet 

Patrick (2) 

Werenskiold 

Bell 

Chattaway 

Duclaux 

Hornig 

von Klenze 

Lindet 

Maggiora 









1 






1 












(Average 

13^ Maximum . . . 

1 Minimum 

1 


34. 80 
40.88 
28. 10 
20. 80 
64.80 
17.73 
20.90 
26. 53 
15.53 
31.85 
(40.30 
(33. 90 
(42.80 
(38. 69 

26.81 
41.50 
(34. 41 
h2. 43 
(37. 63 
37. 30 
47.10 
29.82 
43.56 
21.90 
54.79 
60.17 
50.46 
38.80 

42.58 
(46. 03 
•M6.52 
(46. 59 
29.99 
33. 10 
27.50 
40.01 
(28. 20 
135.70 
36.00 

(34. 57 
'(35. 74 
140.00 
(32. 05 
55.79 
(50. 19 

(.52. 75 
37.50 
28.39 
36. 89 
29.07 
32.48 
26. 02 
31.55 
36.03 
23. 97 
(50. 50 
(39. 10 
35.25 
f 8.59 
\10. 14 


1.34 
2.04 

.85 




1 


4.90 




1 




f; out-ni Ilk — Norwegian 


(Average 

8 Maximum . . . 

(Minimum 

1 


2.11 




2 






2 


2.21 




1 


2.64 




1 


2. CO 




3 


1.33 
.99 




(Average 

7^Maximum . . . 

(Minimum 

1 


.92 




Soxhlet 






Arnold 

Cribb 


1 






(Average 

IK Maximum . . . 

(Minimum 

1 








2.80 




Patrick (2) . 
Vieth . . 


] 


3.68 




Haecker 


36 






(Average 

9- Maximum . . . 

(Minimum 

1 






Benecke 

Chattaway 

Duclaux 


2.10 




2 ■ 






1 


.57 







.40 




Lindt 

Payen 

Vieth 






2 






1 


4.16 




Balland 

Hoffmann 


1 


'4.12 
4.08 


Ilha 


1 


1.06 




] 


1.50 






(Average 

14-1 Maximum . . . 

(Minimum 

(Average 

10-jMaximum .. . 

(Minimum 

9 

16 Average 

2 


5.04 
8.12 






.78 
3.07 
7.36 






1.10 




Zega 

Leutner. 


3.95 


Krutt 


8.01 




69. '4 .»i 





a Abnormally high ash content was due to a gypsum preparation with which the cheese was 
coated. 
b Green cheese. 
c Caraway seed. 



60 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 



Analyses of cheese — Continued. 



Variety. 


Authority. 


Number of 
analyses. 


Water. 


Fat. 


Pro- 

teids, 

amids, 

etc. 


Milk 

sugar, 

lactic 

acid, 

etc. 


Total 
ash. 


Salt in 
ash. 




Balland 

Griffiths 

Voelcker 


1 


Per ct. 
34. 50 
34.77 
[35. 21 
\32.89 
46. 90 

48. CO 

23. 26 
42.12 
33. SO 

5.3. 74 
40. 30 
40.07 
(45. 88 
[43.38 
43.20 

145. 40 
(37. 50 

2.3. 57 
26. 49 
18.58 

24. 21 
29. 43 
38. 01 
24 37 

150.80 
(54.80 
37.90 
51.72 
/56.08 
(57.83 
J34.47 
(36.58 
37.45 
57.25 
(48.51 
-47.12 
140.54 
[43.87 
•M5.39 
(42.44 
28.40 
44.54 
52.49 
23.01 
32.50 
/30.09 
132.56 
34.00 
.32.16 
36.11 
30.20 
35.39 
f27.56 
130.31 
34.57 
2il.su 
32.90 
27.47 
54.60 
f 3.59 
( 5.20 
24.07 
30.95 
11.62 
44.57 
46.40 
51.00 

26.02 
27.70 
147.51' 

148.02 
38. 10 
46.46 


Per ct. 
25.20 
28.00 

27. 28 
29.28 
11.00 
29. 82 
34*98 
21.29 
29.40 
21.95 
15. 00 

5. 55 
33. 50 

28. 73 
45. 30 
49. 50 
23. 97 

9.70 
25.9(1 
29.83 
24.40 
Hi. 26 
£0.98 
9.63 
20. 80 
4.08 
10.54 
.07 
25.15 
20.59 
41.30 
2.3.99 
23.34 
21.00 
41.91 
40.7.1 
34.60 
22.30 
6.13 
7.36 
16.87 
15.89 
9.97 
3.36 
48.16 
3.37 
7.70 
12.49 
17.10 
26.04 
21.75 
23.00 
19.13 
23.42 
12.58 
19.72 
15.95 
21.08 
24.05 
30.51 
31.30 
29.96 
35.00 
54.56 
46.46 
38.12 
45.20 
33.26 
21.80 
25.00 
23.10 

50.80 
35. 10 
25.93 
24.00 
24.50 
26.31 


Perct. 
28.70 
27.86 
27.93 
29.06 
35. 90 
28.53 
35. 05 
23.58 
23.00 
31.76 
25. 90 
37. 33 
20.20 
23.31 
8.14 
7.62 
20.10 
25. 30 
16.86 
18.17 
15. 50 
8.88 
10.78 
6.79 
9.06 
7. 66 
9.19 
6. 34 
17.60 
14.43 
23.10 
20.73 
16.67 
17.00 
13.03 
14.18 
24.04 
15.03 
32.72 
31.63 
31.29 
29.93 
3.3. 12 
42.12 
13.98 
41.04 
38.02 
55.85 
43.60 
38.42 
42.27 
35.00 
43.54 
48.93 
38.33 
35. 55 
44.08 
34.25 
35.15 
33.51 
35.59 
30.74 
7.30 
36.60 
43.28 
29.35 
34.45 
27.00 
30.36 
20.32 
17.80 

20.64 
31.16 
22.56 
24.29 
24.80 
23.66 


Per ct. 
6. 15 
5.21 
5.54 
4.42 
1.00 

.38 
8.05 

8.84 

6. £8 
9. 75 

44. 84 

5.3. 03 
Ml). 75 
41.01 
53. 24 
01.38 
46. 00 
5.12 
5.98 

1.42 
1.32 

6.96 

9.02 

2.94 
8.59 
10.36 
7.90 
6.47 
6.39 
9.85 
5.16 
.16 

6.69 

2.49 
2.75 
2.16 

6.68 
2.04 


Per ct. 
5.45 

4.16 
4.04 
4.35 
5. 20 

5. 98 

6. 69 
4.82 
5. HI 
4.44 
4.40 

3. 3S 
4..-II 
5. 93 

.68 

. 50 

3. 89 

4. 30 
4 96 
4.75 

5. 00 
4. 76 

6. 09 

3. 28 

4. 92 

li'.'.S 

5. Ill) 
1.33 
4.L'() 
3.40 
3.56 
2.49 
2.85 
3.63 

.51 
3.90 
2.48 
3.79 
3.41 
3.17 
4.84 
5.13 
2.22 
4'30 
10.89 
1.79 
8.14 
6.20 
5.45 
5.07 
5.20 
6.29 
7.18 
5.20 
4.82 
5.72 
7.09 
6.23 
6.24 
6.84 
5.31 
.60 
5.25 
5.00 
5.69 
6.18 
5.10 
3.97 
1.60 
4.00 

2.54 
4.00 
4.00 
3.69 
5.30 
3.67 


Per ct. 




1 








1.03 




1 


1.21 
1.40 


Limburg — American. . . 


Arnold 


4-1 Maximum .. . 

(.Minimum 

1 




Johnson 

Balland 

Lindet 

von Klenze 


3 51 




1 






1 

1 

1 


2.90 




3 30 










Fascetti 

Balland 

Lindet 

Balland 

Lindet 

Dahl 






1 






2 


1. 90 




[Average 

6- Maximum . . . 

[Minimum 

1 


""3." 70 




Voelcker 

Werenskiold 

Balland 

Blytb 






(■Average 

-2 Maximum . . . 

(.Minimum 

2 

1 

1 



2 

1 

1 

3 

3 

1 

1 

1 

1 

1 

9 

1 








Neufchatel— Ame rican . 


von Klenze 

Martin 

I'm Veil 

Arnold 

Dahl 

Voelcker 

Balland 


1.44 
1.90 

1.42 


Olivet 










Soxhlet 




Parmesan 








Chattaway 

Duclaux 

Lindet 


1.76 
1.65 
1.70 




Manet ti 

Patrick (2) 


[Average 

8< Maximum .. . 

(Minimum 

1 






2 

1 






Soxhlet 






Sartori. .. ^«... 

Lindet 

Clark 


[Average 

4 Maximum .. . 
| Minimum. . . . 

2.. 


4.95 
5 51 




4.34 
10 






Pont-1'Eveque 


Johnson 


[Average 

4< Maximum .. . 

(Minimum 

1 


2.24 
2.61 
1.86 




Balland 


1 






1 


1.90 


Pont-1'Eveque— 

American 




1. . . 




Port du Salut 


Balland 

Duclaux 

Lindet 


1... 









1.90 




1 


1.56 
2.20 


| 


Rollet 


1 


1.31 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 



61 



Analyses of cheese— ( !i ml inued. 



Variety. 



Potted— 

American C 1 u 1 
House 

Imperial 

Royal Paragon... 
Rabacal 

Rebbiola 

Reblochon 

Reindeer milk 

Romadour 



Roquefort. 



Ricotta 

Saloio 

Sap Sago 

Savoy 

Septmoncel 

Serra da Estrella 



Servian 
Spalen. 
Stilton. 



Swiss — American. 



Authority. 



Number of 
analyses. 



Weems. . . . 
Weems. . . . 
Weems. . - . 

1 lolVmann . 

Cornalba . 
Lindei 



Werenskiold. 

Ilornig 

von Klen/.e. . 

Lindet 

Patrick (2).. 
Vieth 



Arnold 3. 

Balland I. 

Bell 1. 

Chattaway l. 

Hornig... l. 

Johnson l . 

von Klenze. . . - . l. 

Lindet I. 

Muter I. 

Patrick (2) 1 . 

Payen 2. 



Sieber. . 
Barton. 



Sartori 3 6. 

Hoffmann 1.. 

Pereira 2.. 

Arnold ! 1.. 

Benecke 1.. 

VOn Klen/.e 1. . 

Balland 2.. 

Balland 1 . . 



Biittner. . . 
Hoftmann. 

Pereira 



Zega.... 
Benecke 



f Average . . 

M Maximum 

Minimum. 



I Average 

'Maximum - . 
Minimum. . . 

Average. . . . 
Maximum . . 
Minimum. . . 



Swiss Russian. 



Swiss Swedish. . . . 
Tessel 

a From cow 



Chattaway ' 3. 

Griffiths 

Ilassall 

Muter 

Patrick (2) .. 

Voelcker 

Arnold 



Haecker 

Johnson 

Kalantarow. . . 

Dahl 



Mayer, 
s milk. 



Water. 



Average 

Maximum . . 
Minimum. . . 



Per cl. 
38.98 

30. 113 

32.85 
16.45 
[46.56 
[45.36 

53. '-'0 

27. 70 
[56.60 
[51.21 

43.21 
60. 40 
55. Hi 
44. 55 
[28. 35 

28. 87 
I'-"-'. 47 

28.90 

31'. 20 

29.60 
36.93 
39.28 

:;s. 'M 
36.90 
21. 56 

34. 37 
[26.53 
[34.55 
[23.54 
[36.93 

68. 47 
[43. SO 

42. 4X 
143.29 

76. 2:. 
1 5 4. 37 
I4. r ,. Si 

13. 30 

47. 02 

38. 17 
[52. 40 
149.70 

28. 20 

4::. 58 
47 OS 
3.',. 22 
31.87 
30. 34 
.'.11.(17 
24. 38 
53. oo 
68. st 

42. 10 

28. 1 4 
1 10. 40 

21.20 
1 25. 00 
31 22 
31.37 
28.60 

32. 07 
|32. IS 
|20.27 

38. 51 
(41. 43 
{ 35. 91 
[38.40 

33. 79 
32. 74 

35. 44 
29 so 

29. 34 
38. 04 
30. 02 
54.40 



Fa I . 



Pro- 
teids, 
amide, 

etc. 



J'i r Ct. 
34.01 
33.10 
31.52 

37. 36 

30. 5G 
20.50 

43. 1 1 

17. 05 

0. 10 

L0.56 

11.00 
14.76 

10. 10 

20. OS 
33.70 
3 1.02 

38. 30 
3438 
30.30 

31.23 
20. 53 
34. 14 

29. . r ,() 
3.",. 110 
34. 54 
32.31 
30.14 
40. 13 
31.23 

5. 22 

30. 46 
31.04 
31.00 

1.78 
25. si 
27. so 
15.52 

6.60 
12.27 

.-,.0(1 

0. 45 
31.2.", 
27. 69 

34. r,o 

10. 70 
40. 05 
27.03 
37.03 
10 3(1 
19. 30 

32. 20 
7. 77 

33.69 
42. 20 
4. r ,. SO 
34. 00 
37. 24 
30. 58 
30 70 
30 03 
37. 30 
13, 98 
24. 94 
29.93 
33.21 
32 40 

33. 25 
32. 20 
37.20 
28. 97 
30. 44 
29. 13 
32. 05 
18.30 



Pcrcl. 
21.13 
20. ss 
27.74 
35. 00 
19.99 

20.21 

19.30 

23. 70 
18. 70 
33.00 
30.18 
19.00 
20.0.', 
32. 72 
32. St 
28. 82 
34. 99 
2:,. 10 
27. 10 

28. 30 
25. 79 
22 02 
2l! 92 

20. 50 

32. 24 
24.40 

31.00 

26.52 

27. 00 

2. - ,. 79 

IS. 72 

8.66 

13.01 
12.04 
11.37 
13.03 

15. 10 

57. 59 
37. 00 
45. 73 
28.84 
27. 32 
32. 00 
22. 02 
24.03 
20. 40 

22. IS 

23. 48 

32. 10 
17 S3 
21.32 
31'. 37 
14.00 

30.78 

21.10 
20.3,0 

28 lo 

24. 28 
27. 00 
3.-,. 60 

23. 19 

24. 31 

33. 55 
32. 02 

22. 13 
24.82 
22.88 
20. 12 
24.85 
28.81 
20.57 

23. 20 
23.21 

24. 70 
20. 10 



Perct. 



Milk 
sugar, 

lactic 

acid, 
etc. 



2. 07 

.81 

.02 



3. 00 
1.32 



1.77 



3.97 
10. 30 
11.49 
10. 75 
5.28 
2.90 
.",. 07 



9. 38 
12. 53 
3.99 

2. 09 
0. 13 
1.55 
2 21 

3. 03 
6.78 

.78 

2.63 

5.12 

85 

2 55 



Total 
ash. 



3.40 

i.'os" 

222' 



2. 90 
3.32 
3. 24 
1.77 
4.43 
C.90 
.57 
0. 11 
4.36 
4.59 
1.40 



Per a. 
1.49 
4.22 
4. 13 

S. 20 
7.00 
3. 73 

3. 70 

2. 43 
0.7s 
0.01 
0. 10 

5.eo 
5.47 
6.57 

s. 82 
s. 00 
8. 24 
4.(4 

4. SS 
0.70 
4.7S 
0. so 
5.00 
7. 00 

10.24 
0. 10 
4. 45 
5.07 
6.27 
4.78 
3.62 
.72 
.78 
1.02 
5.32 
3.20 
5.26 
13. 57 
10. 10 
3.83 
3.4S 
4.00 
4. 50 
4.00 
4.35 
3.51 

3. 00 
5.79 
s. 90 

3. 23 
3.30 

4. SI 
2.40 
7. 38 
2. 1,0 
2.90 
4.10 
3.80 
4.39 
4. 02 
3.24 
3. 93 
2.20 
4.70 
3.34 
3.06 
3.48 
5.07 
5.78 
7.44 
4.36 
4.78 
4.39 
2.39 
5.80 



Salt in 
ash. 



Prr ct. 



*> From sheep's milk. 



c G reen cheese. 



62 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 
Analyses of cheese— Continued. 



Variety. 



Thenay 

Topfen 

Trappist. . 

Troyes 

Vacherin. . 

Vendome. . 

Viterbo 

Vorarlberg 



Warwickshire 

Wensleydale.. 
Wiltshire 



Authority. 



Number of 
analyses. 



Blin 

Kbnig 

Rubner.. . 
Adametz. . 

Lindet 

Benecke.. . 
Lindt 



Fallot . 



Sartori. 



Eugling. 



von Klenze . 



Ziger. 



Eugling. 
von Klenze. 



(Average 

6-^ Maximum.. . 

| Minimum 

1 

{Average 
Maximum . . . 
Minimum 32.92 

f56. 61 



Water. Fat. 



Perct. 
30.14 
72.44 
60.27 
45.90 
58.70 
54.02 
45.87 
48.69 
56.33 
29.63 
28.50 
42.99 
55. 85 




Per ct. 

15.00 

6.22 

7.33 

26.10 

18.60 

23.74 

27.21 

20.90 

30.61 

10.80 

30.93 

17.02 

31.99 

2.82 

4.48 

4.56 

29.08 

30.04 

30.89 

33.30 

27.82 

28.00 

28.71 

19.26 

25.55 

3.15 

4.33 

5.22 

3.48 



Pro- ' Milk 
teids, ! gi Total 

a ™ ds ' add? ash 
etc. 



Per ct. 
18.12 
16.91 
24.84 
23.30 
14.60 
18.98 
25.29 
27.97 
45.52 
17.74 
34.19 
31.19 
40.11 
25.65 
36.42 
42. 37 
27.43 
29.70 
28.19 
27.20 
26.52 
31.12 
29.00 
34.22 
26.81 
22.13 
14.99 
18.72 
64.62 



3.07 
3.54 



3.79 
7.21 
1.81 



7.16 
1.95 
2.84 



3.88 



3.60 
2.28 
2.24 
3.97 
3.93 
3.97 



Per ct. 
6.10 
1.36 
4.02 
4.00 
4.80 
3.08 
1.63 
4.43 
5.58 
3.10 
6.38 
4.94 
6.89 
3.79 
2.49 
2.49 
4.36 
5.60 
4.55 
3.70 
4.55 
4.41 
4.25 
5.02 
5.33 
2.31 
2.02 
3.62 
.90 



Salt in 
ash. 



Per ct. 

4.80 



3.70 
1.77 

'2.79 
3.68 
2.08 
5.03 



2.78 
1.12 



1.03 

.60 

1.41 



SOURCES OF ANALYTICAL DATA." 

1. Adametz, L. 

Ueber die herstcllung unci zusammensetzung dee bosnischeri trappistenkases. 

Milch-ztg., jahrg. 21, no. 19, p. 310-313. Bremen, May 7, 1892. 

2. Arnold, L. B. 

Cheese and cheese making. Am. dairymen's assn., 14th ann. rept., for the 
year ending Jan. 15, 1879. Utica, N. Y., 1879. See p. 145. 

Transl. abst. Milch-ztg., jahrg. 8, no. 32, p. 468-470, Aug. 6; no. 33, p. 484, 
Aug. 13; no. 34, p. 500-502, Aug. 20. Bremen, 1879. See p. 502. 

3. Balland, A. 

Les aliments. Paris, 1907. See v. 2, p. 237-248. 

4. Bell, James. 

The analysis and adulteration of foods. 2 parts, illus. 20cm. Lond., 1881. 
See also citations 15, 49, 53, 54. 

5. Benecke, F., and Schulze, E. 

Untersuchungen fiber den Emmenthaler kiise und liber einige andere schwei- 
zerischc kascsortcn. Landw. jahrb., bd. 16, p. 317-400. Berl.,1887. See 
p. 338, 373. 

6. Blades, Charles M. 

Cheshire cheese. Analyst, v. 19, p. 131-133. Lond., June, 1894. 

7. Blin, Henri. 

L'industrie fromagere en Loir-et-Cher. Le homage de Thenay. Jrn. d'agr. 
prat., ann. 61, t. 2, no. 49, p. 876-879. Paris, Dec: 9, 1897. 

8. Blyth, Alexander Wynter, and Blyth, Meredith "Wynter. 

Foods; their composition and analysis. 5th ed. Lond., 1903. See p. 306. 

9. BOGGILD, B. 

Eine analyse der Gislcv-kiise. Ugeskrift for landmand, II, no. 20, 1890. 
Abst. Biedermanns cent. f. agr.-chem., jahrg. 20, p. 287. Leipz., 1891. 

10. Brunnich, J. C. 

Analyses of cheese and butter manufactured at the Queensland agricultural 
college, Gatton. Queensland agr. jrn., v. 9, no. 4, p. 424-428. Brisbane, 
Oct., 1901. 

11. [BiJTTNER, C] 

See citation 58. 

12. [Caldwell. 

Alp. monatsbl., p. 158. 1877.] See citation 39, p. 325. 

13. Chattaway, Wm.; Pearmain, T. H; and Moor, C. G. 

On the composition of cheese. Analyst, v. 19, p. 145-147. Lond., July, 
1894. 

14. The composition of some English cheeses. Analyst, v. 20, no. 231, p. 132-134. 

Lond., June, 1895. 



"References inclosed in brackets have not been consulted in the original. 

63 



64 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

15. Clark, R. D. 

Report on cheese. N. Y. state dairy commr., 3rd ann. rept. for 1886. 
Albany, 1887. See p. 50, 62. 

16. Composition of Canadian cheese. Ibid. , 5th ann. rept . f< a the year 1888. Albany, 

1889. See p. 422. 

17. Ibid., 7th aim. rept, for the year 1890. Albany, 1891. See p. 300. 

18. Cooke, W. W., and Hills, J. L. 

Making cheese from different qualities if milk. Vermont agr. exp. sta., 
5th ann. rept. [for] 1891. Burlington, JS92. See p. 90. 

19. CoBNALBA, G. 

I formaggini di lecco. L' indus. latt. e zootec, anno 5, no. 5, p. 35. Reggio- 
Emilia, March 1, 1907. 

20. I t'ormaggi molli di lusso. II coltivatore, ann. 53, no. 49, p. 713-717. Casale 

Monferrato, Dee. 8, 1907. 

21. Cribb, Cecil H. 

Note on Dutch cheese. Analyst, v. 31, no. 361, p. 105-111. Lond., Apr., 
1906. 

22. 1>AHL. 

Ueber Norwegens natur, rindviehlndtung und molkereiwirthschaft. Mileh- 
ztg., jahrg. 1, no. 16, p. 185-191, May 15; no. 18, p. 205-212, June 15. Danzig, 
1872. See p. 210. 

23. Drew, Charles W. 

Report upon cheese. Minn, state dairy and food comm., 3rd biennial rept. 
Minneapolis, 1890. See p. 235. 

24. Duclaux, Pierre Emile. 

Lelait. Ed. 2. Paris, 1894. See p. 259-311. 

25. Eugling, W., and Klenze, von. 

Versuche auf dem gebiete der alpenwirthschaft. Mihh-ztg., jahrg. 7, no. 

11, p. 141-143, Mar. 13; no. 12, p. 157-160, Mar. 20, 1878; jahrg. 9, no. 40, 

p. 597-59D, Oct. 6, 1880. Bremen, 1878-80. 
[Bericht landw. versuchsstat., Tisigro, 1875-76. Bregenz, 1887. p. 12.] See 

citation 38, p. 331. 

26. [Fallot. 

Prem. cong. intern, hyg. aliment,, 4. sec., Paris, 1905. Analyses made at 
Lab., Loir-et-Cher, Blois, France.] 

27. Fascetti, G. 

Preparazione e composizione del formaggio lombardo alia crema denominato 
"Mascarpone." Ann. d. r. staz. sper. d. caseif. Lodi, ann. 1902. Lodi, 
1903. See p. 71. 

28. [Fleischmann, W. 

Bericht d. milchw. versuchsstat. Radon fur 1880, p. 34; fur 1884, p. 30.] See 
citation 39, p. 334. 

29. Goesmann, C. A. 

Mass. state agr. exp. sta. Amherst, 6th ann. rept., 1888. Boston, 1889. See 
p. 239. 

30. Griffiths, A. B. 

Analyses de cpielques fromages d'Angleterre. Bull, de la Soc. chim. de Paris, 
ser. 3, t. 7, p. 282-283. Paris, 1892. 

31. Haecker, T. L. 

Manufacture of sweet curd cheese. Minn. agr. exp. sta., Bull. no. 35, p. 
104-128. St. Anthony Park, Oct., 1894. See p. 115, 122, 127. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 65 

32. Hassall, Arthub Hill. 

Food: iis adulterations and the methods for their detection. Loud., 1876. 
See p. 450. 

33. Hoffmann, M. 

Die milchwirtschaftlichen verhaltoisse Portugals. Milch-ztg., jahrg. 27, 
no. 13, p. 197-199. Bremen, Mar. 26, L898. 

34. [Hornig. 

Beit.riige zur geschichte, technik und statistik der kaserei. Wien, L869, 
p. 40.] See citation 39, pp. 327, 329, 330, 335, 341. 

35. Johnson, S. W. 

Analyses of some American cheese. Conn. agr. exp. sta., aim. rept., L892. 
New Haven, 1893. Seep. 156. 

36. [Jones.] 

Cited from White, Henry. Report on the exhibition of cheese at Chester in 
July, 1858. Jrn. roy. agr. soc, v. 19, p. 420. Lond., L858. 

37. [Kalantarow, A. von. 

• Ueber die chemsche znsammensetzung einiger russischer kaee. Jrn. russ. 
phys.-chem. gesell., v. 1, p. 155. 1882.] Cited from Bericht d. deut. 
chem. gesell., jahrg. 15, Jan.-June, p. 1220. Berl., 1882. 

38. Ki.enze, H. L. VON. 

Versuche fiber die verdaulichkeit verschiedener kasesorten. Milch-ztg., 
jahrg. 14, no. 24, p. 369-373. Bremen, June 10, L885. 

39. Koenig, Franz Joseph. 

Chemie der menschlichen nahrungs- und genussmittel. 4. anfl. Berl., 1903. 
See bd. 1, 321, 335. 

40. Kruger, R. 

Beitrage zur herstellnng kamambertartiger weichkase. Molk.-ztg., jahrg. 6, 
no. 33, p. 402. Hildesheim, Aug. 13, 1892. [In this paper Kruger refers 
to previous papers of his in the same periodical.] 

41. Leutner, W. 

Krutt, ein von den Kirgisen bereiteter kase. Pharm. ztschr. f. Russland, 
jahrg. 24, no. 1, pp. 8-9. St. Petersb., Jan. 6, 1885. Cited also in Chem.- 
ztg., jahrg. 9, no. 14, p. 254. Cothen, Feb. 15, 1885. 

42. Lindet, Ammann, and Brugiere. 

Sur la composition des principaux fromages consommes en France. Rev. 
gen. d. lait, ami. 5, no. 18, pp. 416^18. Lierre, June 30, 1906. 

43. [Lindt, O., and Muller, C. 

Analysen verschiedener schweizerischer kasesorten. General-bericht fiber 
die erste schweizerische milchproduktenausstellung in Bern, 1. bis 11. 
Sept. 1867, von R. Sehatzman.] 

Abst. Jahresb. ii. d. fortschr. anf d. gesammtg. d. akr.-chem., jahrg. 10, pp. 
354-155. Berl., 1868. See 'also citation 39, pp. 324, 327, 331, 333. 

44. Lloyd, F. J. 

Observations on cheddar cheese-making. Report, 1893. Jrn. of the Bath 
and west and southern counties SOC, ser. 4, v. 4, 1893-4, pp. 131-175. 
Lond., 1894. Seep. 161. 

45. Macoir, Louis. 

L'industrie fromagere en Franche-Comte'. Bull, d'agr., t. 20, pp. 376—141. 
Bruxelles, 1904. See p. 390. 

46. Maogiora, Aunaluu. 

Ueber die zusarmnensetzung des fiberreifen kases. Arch. f. hyg., bd. 14, 
no. 2, pp. 216-224. Miinchen u. Leipz., L892. See p. 220. 



66 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

47. [Maior, G. 

Die tzigaja-race, ihre eigenschaften und ihre wirtschaftliche nutzbarkeit. 
Inaug.-diss. Halle, 1887.] Cited from Thiele, Paul. Einigesiiber schaf- 
kasefabrikation in Siebenbiirgen. Milch. -ztg., jahrg. 26, no. 46, pp. 727- 
729. Bremen, Nov. 3, 1897. 

48. Manetti, L., and Musso, Giovanni. 

Sulla composizione dei caei di grana. Staz. sper. agr. ital., v. 5, t'asc. 3, pp. 
174-201. Torino, 1876. See p. 187. 

49. Ueber die zusammensetzung und die reife des parmesankases. Die landw. 

versuchs-stat., bd. 21, pp. 211-229. Berk, 1878. See p. 215. 

50. [Martin, Ed. W., and Moore, R. W.] 

See citation 14, p. 45. 

51. Mayer, Adolf. 

Analysen von hollandischen kasesorten. Milch-ztg., jahrg. l(i, no. 5, p. 87. 
Bremen, Feb. 2, 1887. 

52. Melikopf, P. G., and Rosenblatt, M. 

Le brynsa, fromage russe de lait de brebis. Jrn. d'agr. prat., ann. 71, 
n. s. t. 14, no. 52, p. 814-815. Paris, Dec. 26, 1907. 

53. Musso, Giovanni, and Menozzi, A. 

Sulla composizione degli stracehini. Staz. sper. agr. ital., 1877, v. 6, fasc. 4, 
p. 201-206. Torino, 1878. 

54. [Muter, J.] 

Sec citation 14, p. 44, 50, 52. 

55. Patrick, G. E. 

(1) Changes during cheese ripening. Iowa agr. exp. sta., Bull. 24, p. 970. 

Ames, 1894. 

(2) Unpublished data. Analyses made in U. S. Department of Agriculture, 

1901. Samples collected by H. E. Alvord in Europe. 

56. Payen, A. 

Composition de plusieurs substances alimentaires. Jrn. de pharm. et de 
'chim., ser. 3, t. 16, p. 279. Paris, 1849. 

57. Precis theorique et pratique des substances alimentaires. Ed. 4. Paris, 1865. 

See p. 190-213. 

58. Pereira, A. Cardoso, and Mastbaum, Hugo. 

Techniscb.es und analytisches iiber die kaseindustrie in Portugal. Chem.- 
ztg., jahrg. 28, no. 84, p. 998-1000. Cbthen, Oct. 19, 1904. 

59. Richmond, Henry Droop. 

Dairy chemistry; a practical handbook for dairy chemists and others having 
control of dairies. Lond., 1899. See p. 303. 

60. [Rollet.] 

See citation 45, p. 390, 413. 

61. Rubner, M. 

Analyse des sog. topfens. Ztschr. f. biol., bd. 15, p. 496. Munehen, 1879. 

62. Sartori, Giuseppe. 

Sulla composizione della ricotta pecorina. Staz. sper. agr. ital., v. 18, fasc. 4, 
aprile, p. 434-436. Asti, May 6, 1890. 

63. Analisi del caciocavallo. Nota preliminare. Ibid., v. 22, fasc. 4, aprile, 

p. 337-340. Asti, April, 1892. 

64. Die chemie des schafkases. Milch-ztg., jahrg. 19, no. 51, p. 1001-1004. 

Bremen, Dec. 17, 1890. 



VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 67 

65. [Sheldon, John Prince. 

Prize essay on cheese making, etc. Newcastle-under-Lyme, 1876.] See 
citation, 39, p. 326. 

66. SllUTTLEWORTH, A. E. 

The composition of milk, cheese, and whey in relation to one another. Ont. 
agr. college, Guelph, Ont., Bull. 96. Toronto, Aug. 16, 1894. 

67. Ann. rept. of the professor of chemistry. Ont. agr. coll. and exp. farm, 21st 

aim. rept,. 1895. Toronto, 1896. See p. 25. 

68. SlEBER, Nadina. 

Ueber die angebliche umwandlung dee eiweissee in fett beim reifen des 
Roquefort-kases. Jrn. f. prakt. chem., n. f., bd. 21, p. 203-221. Leipz., 
1880. 

69. Snyder, Harry. 

The composition of dairy products. Minn. agr. exp. eta., Bull. 27, p. 50-62. 
St, Anthony Park, Pel.., 1893. See p. 60. 

70. [SOXHLET, F. 

Erster bericht fiber arbeiten der landw. versuchsstat., Wien, v. 29, [for] 
1870-78, Wien, 1878.] See citation 39, p. 322, 335. 

71. Spica, Matteo, and Blasi, Ltjigi de. 

Ricerche chimichesui formaggi siciliani. Staz. Bper. agr. ital., v. 23, fasc. 2, 

agosto, p. 132-153. Asti, Sept, 25, 1892. See p. 148. 

72. [Storch, V. 

Forschungen auf dem gebiete der viehhaltung, 1879, p. 166-232.] See cita- 
tion 39, p. 333. 

73. Stutzer, A. 

Die chemische untersuchungen der kilse. Ztschr. f. analyt. chem., jahrg. 35, 
p. 493-502. Wiesbaden, 1896. See p. 502. 

74. Van Slyke, Lucius Lincoln. 

Investigation of cheese. N. Y. agr. exp. sta., n. s., Bull. 37. ( leneva, Nov., 
1891. 

75. Experiments in the manufacture of cheese during May. Ibid., Pull. 43, June, 

1892. 

76. Experiments in the manufacture of cheese during June. Ibid., Bull. 45, 

Aug., 1892. 

77. Experiments in the manufacture of cheese. Ibid., Pull. 46, Sept.; Hull. 47, 

Nov., 1892. 

78. Summary of results of experiments made in the manufacture of cheeseduring 

the season of 1892. Ibid., Bull. 50, Jan., 1893. 

79. Experiments in the manufacture of cheese. Ibid., Pull. 54, May; Bull. 56, 

May; Bull. 60, Oct.; Pull. 61, Nov.; Pull. 62, Dec, 1893; Pull. 65, Jan., 
1894. 

80. Vieth, P. 

Mitteilungen aus dem laboratorium der Aylesbury Company in London. 
Milch-ztg., jahrg. 1(1. no. 7. p. 120-121. Bremen, Feb. 16. 1887. 

81. Mitteilungen aus dem laboratorium dor Aylesbury Dairy Company in London. 

Milch-ztg., jahrg. 21, no. 12, p. 191-192. Bremen, March 19, 1892. 
82 Bericht fiber die thatigkeit des milchwirtschaftlichen institute in Hameln nn 

jahre 1897. Hannover, 1898. See p. 33. 

83. VOELCKNER, AUGUSTUS. 

On the composition of cheese and on practical mistakes in cheese-making. 
Jrn. roy. agr. soc., v. 22, p. 29-69. Lond., 1861. 

84. Cheese experiments. Ibid., V. 23, p. 170-191. Lond., 1862. 



68 VARIETIES OF CHEESE. 

Voelckner, Augustus — Continued. 

85. On a peculiar kind of Swedish whey cheese, and on a Norwegian goats'-milk 

cheese. Ibid., ser. 2, v. 6, p. 333-336. Lond., 1870. 

86. Amerikanischer kase aus magerer milch mit zusatz von schmalz oder oleo- 

niargarin. Milch-ztg., jahrg. 11, no. 28, p. 438-439. Bremen, July 12, 1882. 

87. Wallace, Henry C. 

Investigations in cheese-making. Iowa agr. exp. sta., Bull. 21, p. 735-767. 
Ames, 1893. See p. 756. 

88. Weems, J. B. 

Unpublished data. Analyses made at Iowa a^r. coll., 1896. Samples fur- 
nished by J. H. Monrad. 

89. Werenskiold, Frederik H. 

Aarsberetning angaaende de offentlige foranstaltninger til landbrugets fremme 
i aaret 1885. Kristiania, 1886. See p. 78. 

90. Ibid., [for] 1893. Kristiania, 1894. See p. 87. 

91. Wilson, N. E. 

Cheese and cheese manufacture. Nevada agr. exp. sta., Bull. 18, Reno, Nov., 
1892. 

92. Zega, A. 

Kajmak. Chem.-ztg., jahrg. 21, no. 6, p. 41. CSthen, Jan. 20, 1897. 

93. Zega, A., and Bajic, M. 

Katschkawalj. Chem.-ztg., jahrg. 19, no. 85, p. 1920. Cothen, Oct. 23, 1895. 

94. Zega, A., and Panics, L. 

Serbischer kase. Chem.-ztg. , jahrg. 22, no. 1 8, p. 158. Cothen, March 2, 1898. 



INDEX TO DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES OF CHEESE. 



Aberlam: Description, 7. 

Albumin. See Ziger. 

Atemtejo: Description, 7; analysis, 56. 

Algau. Srr Limbiirg. 

Algau Emmental. See Emmental. 

Alpin: Description, 7. 

Altenburg: Description, 7. 

Alt Knhkiise. Sec Hand. 

Altsohl. Sec Brinsen. 

Ambert: Description, 7 

Aneien Imperial: Description, 7. 

Ancona. See Pecorino. 

Appenzell: Description, 7. 

Arnauten. See Travnik. 

Auvergne (or Auvergne Bleu). See I lantal. 

Backstein (see also Limburg): Description, 7; 
analysis, 56. 

Banbury: Description. 8. 

Barberey: Description, 8. 

Battlemat: Description, 8; analysis. 56. 

Bauden: Description, 8. 

Belgian Cooked: Description, 8. 

Bellelay: Description, 8; analysis, 56. 

Belluncse. Sec Emmental. 

Bergquara: Description, 9. 

Bergues. See Leyden. 

Berliner Kuhkase. Sec Hand. 

Bleu {see also Gex: Sassenage; Septmonccl) : De- 
scription, 9. 

Blue Dorset. See Dorset. 

Bondon (sec also Neufchatel): Analysis, 56. 

Boudanne: Description, 9. 

Boulette. See Maroilles. 

Box (Ann): Description, 9. 

Box (soft): Description, 9. 

Bra: Description, 10. 

Brand: Description, 10. 

Brick: Description, 10; analysis, 56. 

Brickbat: Description, 10. 

Brie: Description, 11; analysis, 56. 

Brinsen: Description.il; analysis, 56. 

Briol. See Limburg. 

Brizecon. See Reblochon. 

Broccio (see also Ziger): Description, 11. 

Brocotte. See Ziger. 

Burgundy: Description, 12; analysis, 56. 

Cacio. See Parmesan. 

Cacio Pecorino Romano. See Pecorino. 

Cacio Romano. See Chivari. 

Caciocavello: Description, 12; analysis, 56. 

Caerphilly: Description, 12; analysis, 56. 

Cambridge: Description, 12; analysis, 56. 

Camembert: Description, 12; analysis, 56. 

Cancoillotte. See Fromage Fort. 

Canquillote (seealso Fromage Fort) : Description. 
13. 



Cantal: Description, 13; analysis, 56. 
Carinthian. See Limburg. 

Carre Afline. Sec Aneien Imperial. 

Castello Branco. See Serra da Estrella. 

Ccracee. Sec Zip]-. 

Champolebn: Description, 13. 

Chaource: Description, 14. 

Chaschol dc Chaschosis: Description, 14. 

Cheddar: Description, 14; analysis, 57. 

Cheshire: Description, 15; analysis, 58. 

Cheshire-Stilton: Description, 15. 

Chevret. See Goat's Milk. 

Chevrotin. Sec Goat's Milk. 

Chivari: Description, 15. 

Clerimbert. Sec Alpin. 

Colmar. See Minister. 

Commission: Description, 16. 

Compiegne. Sec Camembert. 

Contentin. See Camembert. 

Cooked: Description, L6. 

Cotherstone: Description, 16; analysis, 58. 

Cotrone. See Pecorino. 

Cottage: Description, 16. 

Coulommiers: Description, 16; analysis, 58. 

Cream: Description, 10; analysis, 58. 

Cream, French Demi-scl: Analysis, 58. 

Crescenza: Analysis, 58. 

C reuse: Description, 17. 

Cristalinna: Description, 17. 

Daisies. Sec Cheddar. 

Damen: Descripl ion, 17. 

Danish Export: Description, 17; analysis, 58. 

Dauphin. Sec Maroilles. 

Delft. Sec Leyden. 

Demi-scl. See Cream. 

Derbyshire: Description, 17; analysis, 58. 

Devonshire Cream: Description, 18. 

Domestic Swiss. Sec Emmental. 

Dorset: Description, 18; analysis, 58. 

Dotter: Description, 18. 

Dresdener Bierkilsc. See Hand. 

Dry: Description, 18. 

Duel: Description, 18. 

Dunlop: Description, is; analysis, 5S. 

Dutch: See Cottage. 

Edam: Description, IS; analysis, 58. 

Elbing: Description, 19. 

Emmental: Description, 19; analysis, 58. 

Emmersdorf. Sec Limburg. 

Engadine: Description, 21; analysis, 58. 

English Dairy: Description, 21. 

Epoisse: Description, 21. 

Ervy (see also Troyes): Description, 21. . 

Farm: Description, 21. 

Ferme. Sec Farm. 

Filled: Description, 21. 



70 



INDEX TO DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES OF CHEESE. 



Flats. See Cheddar. 

Flower: Description, 22. 
Fondue. See Fromagc Fort. 
Fontinc d'Aosta. See Emmental. 
Formagelle: Description, 22. 
Formaggie di Capra. See Goat's Milk. 
Formaggini: Description, 22. 
Formaggini di Lecco: Analysis, 58. 
Formaggio Dolce. See Emmental. 
Formaggio Duro. See Nostrale. 
Formaggio Grana Lodigiano. See Parmesan. 
Formaggio Tenero. Sec Nostrale. 
Fourme. See Cantal. 
Fourme d'Ambert. See Anibert. 
Freisa. See Cooked. 
Fresco. See Stracchino. 
Fromagere. See Canquillote; Fromage Fort. 
Fromage a la Crcme. See Cream. 
Fromage a la Pie. See Farm. 
Fromage Blanc. See White. 
Fromage Bleu. Sec Bleu. 
Fromage Double Creme. See Cream. 
Fromage de Boite. See Box (soft). 
Fromage de Bourgogne. See Burgundy. 
Fromage de Foin. See Hay. 
Fromage de Troycs. See Barberey. 
Fromage Fort: Description, 22. 
Fromagc Mou. See Maquee. 
Fromage Persille. See Gex; Bleu. 
Gaiskasli. See Goat's Milk. 
Gammelost: Description, 22; analysis, 58. 
Gautrais: Description, 22. 
Gavot: Description. 22. 
Geheimrath: Description, 22. 
Ge>om6 (sec also Monster] : Description, 23. 
Gervais (see also Cream): Description, 23; analy- 
sis, 58. 
Gex: Description, 23; analysis, 5'J. 
Gislev: Description, 24; analysis, 5'j 
Glarnerkase. See Sap Sago. 
Gloire des Montagnes. See Damen. 
Glumse: Description, 24. 

Gloucester (.see also Derbyshire) : Analysis, 59. 
Goat's Milk: Description, 24; analysis, 59. 
Gorgonzola: Description, 24; analysis, 59. 
Gouda: Description, 25; analysis, 59. 
Gournay: Description, 25. 
Goya: Description, 25. 
Grana. See Parmesan. 
Granular Curd: Description, 25. 
Gratairon. See Goat's Milk. 
Gray: Description, 25. 
Grottenhof. See Limburg. 
Gruau de Montagne. See Ziger. 
Grunerkase. See Sap Sago. 
Gruyere: Description, 26; analysis, 59. 
Guiole. See Laguiole. 
Giissing: Description, 26. 
Hand: Description, 26. 
Hartkase. See Saanen. 
Harz: Description, 26; analysis, 59. 
Hay: Description, 26. 
Herv§ (see also Limburg) : Analysis, 59. 
Hobbe. See Leyden. 
Hohenburg. See Box (firm). 
Hohenheim: Description, 27. 
Holstein Dairy Cheese. See Leather. 



Holstein Health: Description, 27. 

Holstein Skim-milk: Description, 27. 

Holsteiner Gesundheits Kase: See Holstein 

Health. 
Holsteiner Magerkase. See Holstein Skim-milk. 
Hop: Description, 27. 
Hopfen. See Hop. 
Hudelziger. See Ziger. 
Hvid Gjedcost: Description, 27. 
Iglesias. See Pecorino. 
Ihlefeld. See Hand. 
Ilha: Description, 28; analysis, 59. 
Incanestrato: Description, 28; analysis, 59. 
Isigny: Description, 28. 
Jochbcrg: Description, 28. 
Josephine: Description, 28. 
Jura. See Septmoncel. 
Kajmak: Description, 2S; analysis, 59. 
Kascaval: Description, 28; analysis, 59. 
Katschkawalj : Description, 28; analysis, 59. 
Katzenkopf. See Edam. 
Kirgischkiise. See Krutt. 
Kjarsgaard: Description, 28. 
Kloster: Description, 29. 
Klencz. See Brinsen. 
Knaost. See Pultost. 
Koejekaars. See Leyden. 
Kolos-Monostor: Description, 29. 
Komynde. See Leyden. 
Koppen: Description, 29. 
Kosher: Description, 29. 
Kosher Gouda: Description, 29. 
•Kniuterkase. See Sap Sago. 
Krutt: Description, 29; analysis, 59. 
Kuhbach: Description, 29. 
Laguiole: Description, 29; analysis, 60. 
Lamothe. See Goat's Milk. 
Lanark. Sec Limburg. 
Lancashire: Description, 29. 
Landoch. See Brinsen. 
Langres: Description, 30. 
Lapland: Description, 30. 
Larron. See Maroilles. 
Latticini: Description, 30. 
Leather: Description, 30. 
Leder. See Leather. 
Leicester (see also Derbyshire) : Description, 30; 

analysis, 60. 
Leonessa. See Pecorino. 
Leyden: Description, 31; analysis, 60. 
Lindenhof. See Limburg. 
Limburg: Description, 31; analysis, 60. 
Liptau (see also Brinsen): Description, 31. 
Livarot: Description, 32; analysis, 60. 
Livlander. See Hand. 
Long Horns. See Cheddar. 
Lorraine: Description, 32. 
Liineberg: Description, 32. 
Maconnais: Description, 32. 
Macqueline: Description, 32. 
Maigre. See Farm. 
Majocchina. See Incanestrato. 
Maikase: Description, 33. 
Mainz Hand: Description, 33; analysis, 60. 
Malakofl (see also Neufchatel) : Description, 33. 
Manur: Description, 37. 
Maquee: Description, 33. 



INDEX TO DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES OF CHEESE. 



71 



Marianhoi. Sec Limbing. 

Markiscb Hand: Description, 33. 

Maroilles: Description, 33; analysis, 60. 

Mascarpone: Description, 34; analysis, 60. 

Uascarponi. Sec Ziger. 

Manbollen. St e Edam. 

Mecklenberg Skim: Description, 34. 

Mignot: Description, 34. 

Milano. Sec Stracchino. 

ULondsee. See Box (firm). 

Monk's Head. See Bellelay. 

Montasio: Description, 34. 

Montavoner: Description, 34. 

Mont Cenis: Description, 35. 

Mont d'Or: Description, 35; analysis, 60. 

Monthlery: Description, 35. 

Morin. Sec Limbing. 

Mou. See Farm. 

Mozarinelli: Description, 35. 

Minister: Description, 35; analysis, 60. 

My sos t: Description, 36; analysis, 60. 

Nessel: Description, 36. 

Neufchatel: Description, 36; analysis, 60. 

Neusohl. See Brinsen. 

New Milk: Description, 37. 

Niederungkase. See Elbing. 

Nieheim: Description, 36. 

Nogelost: Analysis, 60. 

Nostrale: Description, 37. 

Olivet: Description, 37; analysis, 60. 

Olmiitzer Bierka.se. Sec Sand. 

Olmutzer Quargel (Olmiitz): Description, 37; 

analysis, 60. 
Paglia: Description, 38. 
Pago: Description, 38. 
Paneddas. See Cooked. 
Parmesan: Description, 38; analysis, 60. 
Pate Bleu, gee Bleu. 
Pavilion. Sec Camembert. 
Pecorino: Description, 39; analysis, 00. 
Pecorino Dolce. Sec Pecorino. 
Pecorino Tuscano. See Pecorino. 
Petit Carre. See Ancien Imperial; Neufchatel. 
Petit Suisse {see also Neufchatel): Analysis, 60. 
Pfister: Description, 39. 
Philadelphia, Cream: Description, 39. 
Pimp. See Mainz Hand. 
Pineapple: Description, 39; analysis, 60. 
Poitiers. See Goat's Milk. 
Pnnt I'Eveque: Description, 40; analysis, 60. 
Port du Saint: Description, 4u; analysis, 60. 
Potato: Description, 40. 
Potted: Description, 41; analysis, 6L 
Prattig&u: Description, 41. 
Prestost: Description, 41. 
Providence: Description, 41. 
Pro vole: Description, 41. 
Provoloni. See Provole. 
Puglia. See Pecorino. 
Pultost: Description, 41. 
Quadro. See Stracchino. 
Quartirola. See Stracchino. 
Queso de CLncho: Description, 41. 
Queso de Hoja: Description, 42. 
Queso de Mano: Description, 42. 
Queso de Palma Metida. See Queso de Cincho. 
Queso de Prensa: Description, 42. 



Queso de Puno: Description, 42. 
Queyras. Sec Champolebn. 

Rabacal: Description, 42; analysis, 61. 
Raderj : t 'escription, 42. 

Eangiport: Description, 42. 
Paper. Set Rayon. 
Raschera. See Nostrale. 
Rayon: Description, 42. 
Rebbiola: Description, 43; analysis, 61. 
Reblochon: Description, 43; analysis, 61. 
Rccuit. See Ziger. 
Reggian. See Parmesan. 
Reggiano. See Pannesan. 
Reibkase. See Saanen. 

Reindeer Milk: Description, 4:i; analysis, 61. 
Remoudou. See Romadour. 
Rheinwald. Sec Schamser. 
Ricotta (see also Ziger) : Analysis, 61. 
Rinnen: Description, 43. 
Riesengebirge: Description, 43. 
Robiola. See Rebbiola. 
Roll: Description, 43. 
Rollot: Description, 44. 
Romadour: Description, 44; analysis, 61. 
Romano* See Pecorino. 
Romatur. Sec Romadour. 
Roquefort: Description, 44; analysis, 61. 
St. Michels. Sec Limburg. 
Saint Benoit: Description, 45. 
Saint Claude: Description, 45. 
Saint Marcellin: Description, 45. 
Saint Remy: Description, 45. 
Saaland Pfarr. See Prestost. 
Saanen: Description, 45. 
Sage: Description, 45. 
Saloio: Description, 45; analysis, 61. 
Sap Sago: Description, 46; analysis, 61. 
Sassenage (seealso Gcx): Description, 46. 
Satz. See Hand. 
Savoy: Analysis, 61. 
Scanno: Description, 46. 
Scarmorze: Description, 46. 
Schabzieger. See Sap Sago. 
Schachtelkiise. See Box (soft I. 
Schamser: Description, 46. 
Schlesischer Saucrmilehkase. See Silesian. 
Schlesischer Weidhquarg. Sec Silesian. 
Scnloss: Description, 47. 
Schol tengsied : I description, 47. 
Scbutzen. Sec Limburg. 
Schwarzenberg: Description, 47. 
Schweitzer. See Swiss. 
Sehecterre: Description, 47. 
Septmoncel (seeahoQex): Description, 47; anal- 
ysis, 61. 
Serae. Sec Ziger. 

Serra da Estrella: Description, 47; analysis, 61. 
Servian: Description, 48; analysis, 61. 
Siebenbiirgen. See Brinsen. 
Silesian: Description, 48. 
Siraz: Description, 48. 
Slipcote: Description, 48. 
Smear-case. See Cottage. 
Sorte Maggenga. See Parmesan. 
Sorte Vermenga. See Parmesan. 
Soumaintrain. See Camembert. 
Spalen: Description, 48; analysis, 61. 



72 



INDEX TO DESCRIPTIONS AND ANALYSES OF CHEES ; £. 



Sperrkase. See Dry. 

Spitz: Description, 48. 

Squares. See Cheddar. 

Steppes: Description, 49. 

Stilton: Description, 49; analysis, 61. 

Stracchino: Description, 49. 

Stracchino di Gorgonzola. See Gorgonzola. 

Strassburg. See Minister. 

Stringer. See Spalen. 

Styria: Description, 49. 

Sweet Curd: Description, 50. 

Swiss: Description, 50; analysis, 61. 

Tafi: Description, 50. 

Tamie: Description, 50. 

Tanzenberg. See Limburg. 

Tempete. See Canquillote. 

Tessel: Analysis, 61. 

Tete de Maure. See Edam. 

Tete de Moine. See Bellelay. 

Texel: Description, 50. 

Thenay: Description, 50; analysis, 62. 

Thraanen. See Emmcntal. 

Thuringia. See Hand. 

Thury-en-Valois. Sec Camembert. 

Tignard: Description, 50. 

Tilsit: Description, 51. 

Tome de Beaumont. See Tamie. 

Tome de Montagne. See Vacherin. 

Topfen (See also Cooked): Analysis, 62. 

Toppen: Description, 51. 

Trappist: Description, 51; analysis, 02 

Travnik: Description, 51. 



Trouville: Description, 52. 

Troyes: Description, 52; analysis, 62. 

Trockenkase. Sec Dry. 

Tuile de Flandre. See Maroilles. 

Tworog: Description, 52. 

Uri: Description, 52. 

Vacherin: Description, 52; analysis, 62. 

Vendome: Description, 52; analysis, 61. 

Villiers: Description, 52. 

Viterbo (see also Fceorino) : Analysis, 62. 

Vlasic. See Travnik. 

Void: Description, 53. 

Vorarlbcrg Sour-milk: Description, 53; analysis 

62. 
Walliskase. See Saanen. 

Warwickshire (see also Derbyshire) : Analysis, 62. 
Weihenstephan. See Box (firm). 
Weisslak: Description, 53. 
Wensleydale: Description, 53; analysis, 62. 
West Friesian: Description, 53. 
Westphalia Sour-milk: Description, 53. 
Werderkase. Sec Elbing. 
Wiltshire (see also Derbyshire) : Analysis, 62. 
Withania: Description, 54. 
White: Description, 54. 
Yorkshire-Stilton. See Cotherstone. 
Young Americas. See Cheddar. 
Ziegel: Description, 54. 
Ziegenkase. See Goat's Milk. 
Ziger: Description, 54; analysis, 62. 
Zips. See Brinsen. 



o 



